HHHEEELLLLPPPP!!!!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
HHHEEELLLLPPPP!!!!
Hey all, Im the new guy.. Just joined. I have been trouble shooting this issue I am having and nothing I have done has fixed it. I have an 81 F150 with a 302. When I first start it it runs and sounds great.... it has plent of power for what it is and I love it, but, after it starts to warm up it seems like one of the cylinders stop firing. I lose all power and acceleration. I have replaced every gasket from the heads up. I have replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor and it doesnt smoke at all. I am really at a loss right now. I need advice..... Thanks everyone!
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
Well, it could be any one (or more) of a lot of things.
Could be a fuel problem. When you say it runs bad after it starts to warm up, what do you mean? Are we talking 2 or 3 minutes after startup, or 30 minutes into a road trip when it start to run bad. If it runs OK for the first few minutes, then runs bad, it could be a choke problem. Check to make sure the choke is not stuck. Make sure the choke oven is getting hot air from the manifold and/or the electric heater is working.
If it is running OK for, say, 30 minutes and then starts to drop cylinders and run bad, could be a bad ignition module. I had an 82 that would run fine for 30 minutes to an hour, then start to buck and cough and sputter. The Duraspark module was failing and would quit working when it got hot, but worked fine cold.
Could be a fuel problem. When you say it runs bad after it starts to warm up, what do you mean? Are we talking 2 or 3 minutes after startup, or 30 minutes into a road trip when it start to run bad. If it runs OK for the first few minutes, then runs bad, it could be a choke problem. Check to make sure the choke is not stuck. Make sure the choke oven is getting hot air from the manifold and/or the electric heater is working.
If it is running OK for, say, 30 minutes and then starts to drop cylinders and run bad, could be a bad ignition module. I had an 82 that would run fine for 30 minutes to an hour, then start to buck and cough and sputter. The Duraspark module was failing and would quit working when it got hot, but worked fine cold.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 0
From: Loganville, WI
I agree with franklin. I had a issue like that once and it was a exhaust pipe that was collapsing internally that I could not see and was choking out the engine. I've also seen that with catalytic converters, but it's pretty unlikely that is happening, most likely is the ignition getting hot as mentioned before.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Yes jim thank you, after anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes it starts to choke out. I was lookin at it today and I think your right. I dont think the choke is working right or hooked up right. Im not the best of mechanics. I can replace anything but the carb is my weak spot. I dont know how to really work on them all that well, the carb I mean, and I dont know what Im lookin at. Its an edelbrock with a manuel choke. What is it supposed to look like?
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 386
Likes: 28
From: Garnett, KS
When the big plate on top ( looking into the throttle bore ) is closed, that means the choke is on. Basically what its doing, is cutting off airflow by closing the flap, and letting mostly fuel enter engine with not much air. This is mainly necessary in colder weather when the air is more dense with oxygen (because its cold) when you first start it up.
Being equipped with a manual choke, I'd be looking at the cable attachment at the carb to make sure nothing is loose to allow the flap to close on its own. You could try to close the choke plate by hand to make sure it has resistance against the cable.
The plate needs to be open, when the engine is at operating temperature. And it should stay open, until you 'manually' close it i.e. after it cools down and you restart it.
Frank
Being equipped with a manual choke, I'd be looking at the cable attachment at the carb to make sure nothing is loose to allow the flap to close on its own. You could try to close the choke plate by hand to make sure it has resistance against the cable.
The plate needs to be open, when the engine is at operating temperature. And it should stay open, until you 'manually' close it i.e. after it cools down and you restart it.
Frank
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
ok so I dont have anything holding the choke open or closed its just a lose flap. What side should the cable be connected on and what should it be connected to?
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
the "flap" is the choke plate. it should be connected to a cable. that when u start your truck and it warms up u pull it open or push it so that the plate is open inturn will unchoke the truck. when u go to the parts store ask them for a choke cable. they are easy and simple to install
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote