Wire short
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2009
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Wire short
All of a sudden, my turn signals front/back stopped working and no tail or brake lights or front marker lights!!! I only have head lights and high beams. Any suggestions ?????
Also,
1. Do the tail light housings need to be mounted to the bed before a test light will indicate power?
2. How do I remove the ignition and light switches from the dash?
3. My fuses are all good, but are there relays for the turn signals, if so where?
4. I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS!!!!
Also,
1. Do the tail light housings need to be mounted to the bed before a test light will indicate power?
2. How do I remove the ignition and light switches from the dash?
3. My fuses are all good, but are there relays for the turn signals, if so where?
4. I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS!!!!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
No relays of any kind were used for F100/350's thru 1972. Only two were used 1973/79 and then only for the optional: trailer tow package, rear window defroster (1977/79).
Remove the battery cable FIRST, before removing either of the following. Otherwise you could get shocked.
Headlamp switch removal: Pull the ****/shaft all the way out. Then reach behind the dash...on the switch is a button, push that in...now pull the **** and shaft from the switch.
Next, remove the serrated nut that holds the switch to the dash.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Ignition switch removal: The cylinder has to be removed first. There's a small hole in the area where the key fits, insert the end of a paper clip in the hole, turn the key to on, the cylinder will pop out.
Next, reach behind the dash, push the switch towards you...then while doing so, turn the ignition switch bezel (carefully) to remove it.
The bezel has ears on it, if you don't apply pressure to the switch (it has a coil spring on it) while removing the bezel, the ears will snap off-rendering it useless.
Once the bezel has been removed, the switch can be removed from the dash, but there's a spacer between the switch and the dash. Notice which way it's installed.
Remove the battery cable FIRST, before removing either of the following. Otherwise you could get shocked.
Headlamp switch removal: Pull the ****/shaft all the way out. Then reach behind the dash...on the switch is a button, push that in...now pull the **** and shaft from the switch.
Next, remove the serrated nut that holds the switch to the dash.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Ignition switch removal: The cylinder has to be removed first. There's a small hole in the area where the key fits, insert the end of a paper clip in the hole, turn the key to on, the cylinder will pop out.
Next, reach behind the dash, push the switch towards you...then while doing so, turn the ignition switch bezel (carefully) to remove it.
The bezel has ears on it, if you don't apply pressure to the switch (it has a coil spring on it) while removing the bezel, the ears will snap off-rendering it useless.
Once the bezel has been removed, the switch can be removed from the dash, but there's a spacer between the switch and the dash. Notice which way it's installed.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Maricopa
, the cylinder will pop out.Switch to acc, insert paperclip to depress button and then continue turning past acc (counter clockwise) then it will pull out.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 339
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Thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
How bout the tail light housing?? Should they be mounted before testing? I was guessing that the housings may ground themselves to the bed when mounted completing the circuit. Any thoughts...?
How bout the tail light housing?? Should they be mounted before testing? I was guessing that the housings may ground themselves to the bed when mounted completing the circuit. Any thoughts...?
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johnson2007
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Oct 3, 2011 08:24 AM
