Gentlemen,
I have an 89 F250 7.3L IDI and a few questions for you.

First, and most important, I have a coolant leak. It appears to be coming from the bottom of the big main pulley in the front of the engine. I searched the forums and it seems that this is due to the water pump failing. A few Kilometers after I noticed the leak, my "Water in Fuel" light came on. Is this normal when a pump is failing?
None of the threads I read about failing pumps referred to this light being on...
I bought a new pump from the local parts store(it's kind of an emergency repair... work vehicle) and I'm going to attempt the swap this weekend. But before I do, I just wanted the peace of mind, knowing that the pump was my problem.

My second question is about the oil pressure gauge. It seems to fluctuate at times. I read about this too, and I know that they are crappy gauges and not very accurate. But at normal running conditions, the needle points to the "N", and when it fluctuates, it is somewhere between the "N" and the red line. This has only happened a two times. Could this be my oil pump going as well? And/or is it possible that my pump is just weak?

And finally, my third question. After driving on the highway, the truck seems to pulse when idling in drive with the foot on the brake. The pulse seems to lessen when i shift into neutral or park. But it still pulsates. The RPMs read just less than 1000 when idling. The pulsing started happening long before the coolant leak. And I have replaced the return fuel lines and O-rings from the Pensacola Diesel package, and i repaired a hole in the fuel supply line. So I don't think it is air in the lines... but that's about all I know. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for the help. And I'm sorry about writing a fricking novel on here.
-Pete

 

Novels are good,the more info the better. Surely sounds like the water pump to me,just remember to mark the top 2 bolts so they go back in the same holes,if you put ones in that are to long they will hit the IP gear and that aint a good thing,,as far as the pulse it sounds like air or possibly your lift pump{fuel pump} going bad, Your right about the oil needle being crappy,check the connection at the sending unit for connection.Best to install a good gauge to be sure.

 

To add to Ricks response ... The Fan Clutch is a bit of a bear to get off and typically takes special tools, you typically can rent the clutch fan tool at the local chain parts house.

It should have a few drops of loc-tight upon reassembly.

I've heard of peeps getting them off with big channel locks ... If it's already got Loc-Tight on it good luck!

Like Rick said, putting the bolts in the wrong holes hurts!

This does not apply to your issues but did you use the Pensacola kit o-rings??

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Thanks guys for the quick responses.

Rick, how can i tell if the lift pump needs replacing? Or do I just have to replace it to find out?

And Fetus, I did use the o-rings that came with the Pensacola kit. I replaced all that came with the kit. It stopped my dreaded mass fuel loss woes

Also, I read that when the water pump fails, the fan shaft can wobble around. I tried shaking the fan, and it seems solid. Not sure if that means anything.

 

Check your fuel flow at the schrader valve,the tire gauge looking thing at the fuel filter,,hold it open and crank for ...I think its 8 seconds and you should get one third pint of fuel..Help me out festus,I might be off on that one,,the brain is getting a little old,,ha ha I havent done that test in good while,,and of course inspect it good for leaks

 

Opps,missed the last part,,when mine went out it wobbled a bit but I saw one go out once that was still tight so maybe maybe not.

 

I own a 05 f350 crew cab dually when I bought it I had enough power to break the tires loose on dry blacktop anytime I wanted to, then after the first computer reflash I could tell it lost power then started turning on engine lite every time it was worked hard ( pulling 8000 lb 5th wheel trailer up hill ) took back to dealer they replaced censors and engine lite quit comming on, but lost even more power, at this point I could still break tires loose on dry blacktop if I held brake to build boost pressure then let off brake, took back to dealer they checked high pressure oil something said ok now , then still had no power then they replaced unison ring? said ok now took back again they now replaced turbo said ok now ,,,,,,well now I can't even break the tires loose on a gravel road , there is such a lack of power I really think a 90 cc scooter could beat it in a drag race , and know for a fact the scooter would beat it if I hooked it to my trailer where can I find the power it used to have?

 

The water pump shaft may or may not wobble, yet the seal is still bad if it's leaking from the weep hole and needs to be replaced.

Fuel flow is 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of cranking and 4 to 7 lbs at the schrader valve on the filter head, it should produce a nice bubble free stream of fuel.

Just so you know, those o-rings in the Pensacola kit are garbage and many have had much troubles with them ... I highly suggest replacing them with these Viton Return O-Rings - McMaster-Carr Item 9464K24, use Vaseline to install.

Did you also replace the copper washers under the injectors??

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

^^^what he said^^^

 

Welcome showtime,,,its better to start a new thread with your topic..youll get more response,,I also see you have an 05..your on the wrong page

 

Ok guys. Thanks for the help.

I did replace the copper washers. The old ones were really stuck to the injectors.

Looks like I have my work cut out for me in the next couple days.

 

If you hit any snags just ask!!

 

I sure hope you cleaned the carbon out in the bottom of the injector holes ... With a wire bottle brush as well as off the Injectors.

While you had the Injectors out did you read them for condition??
Were they wet, dry, tips broken, how much carbon buildup, etc ...

Did you apply Never Seize on the Injectors before re-installing.

Typically, you don't replace the copper seals unless you pull the Injectors, they do not need to be pulled to seal up the return system with an Injector Installation kit.

It doesn't hurt to replace the copper seals, however there are things that can be gleaned from the Injectors while they are out and it's critical to get the holes clean before re-installing and the use of Never Seize.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I remember there being a bit of carbon soot on the ends of the injectors. I wiped them with a rag and a bit of steel wool and they were good as new.
One injector on the driver's side was a bit damp though. Could be the cause of my rough idle.
I don't remember cleaning out the holes though. poo...
Thanks for the input on that

I spent the morning working on the pump. I did find an issue that I think might have caused my water pump to leak in the first place. The fan clutch seems to have a bearing out on the back where it meets the shaft, just before the big nut. The fan is seized, and off center. Could the vibrations of that thing spinning around caused the seals on the water pump to give out?
And, can I just buy bearings for the fan clutch? Or do I have to buy a whole new clutch? Local parts stores sell them for $320. I don't really want to dish out that kind of cash for the clutch. If I need a whole new clutch, I might be hitting up a Pick'n Pull for that.
I have the old pump off now. I am about to use a razor blade to get the old gasket off... good idea? I just don't want to use a screw driver and scratch up the surface.

I do have a question about installing the new gasket though... In my Haynes manual, it says to use the "paper gasket" (the one that came with the new pump) and liquid gasket. I assume the silicone type. But it doesn't say where I should apply it. I don't know if I should apply the liquid to the engine block, then put the paper gasket, and then some more liquid on the water pump side of the paper gasket. My brother thought I should just put the liquid in the corners of the pump to hold the gasket while installing. Not sure if that will make the mounting surface uneven though. Any Ideas?

Thanks.

 

There are two bolts that go into the center of the timing gear cover.
You have to use thread sealant on them.

Also I hope you remember which hole each bolt came out of since there are a couple different lengths.

If you install a bolt longer then the one that came out of the holes in the timing gear cover they will make contact with the timing gears.

And that opens up a whole new problem.

As for the fan clutch, yes that could be what took out the water pump.
On the bright side, it did not get the radiator, which I had one do.