My tray seems to run under the plastic fender well and 90 on the end to fasten to the inside of the fender. It also 90's where the battery tie downs hook to it on either side of the battery. It's where it 90's in all three spots that is is the worst.

 

Yep,they're all the same 80-86.I think LMC reproduces them.Or maybe it was NPD.Or it could be both.lol.

 

First off, I want to thank Wyowanderer for finding an under the hood toolbox in a junkyard, buying it and selling it to someone on the forum (namely me), Thanks Wyowanderer. So, I have refurbished it and now have it installed. Here are some pictures;






I guess that I will have to wait on some more funds to accumulate before I can do any further work to this truck. I do have a list of JY parts that I will have to save up for. I will keep posting the progress here as it occurs. Any and all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Thanks for looking.

 

Looks great man. I'm gonna eventually get an under hood toolbox for the truck for the sake of having one.

 

Yeah, if I find one of those under-hood lights with an extension cord I'd be inclined to get one of those too.

 

According to my 80 brochure, if the truck has a toolbox, it should also have the under hood light. So for sake of originality, you actually need one. But trucks with the light group also got the under hood light, so technically I need one too.

 

What are the options that came with the light group?

 

I only have the info for 1980, but I don't think it changed much.

The light group consists of:

-Glove Box light
-Ashtray Light
-Under Dash Lights
-Dome lamp w/ Map lights
-Cargo Box light
-Headlamp on warning buzzer
-Courtesy Light Switch on RH door with Custom (Base from 1982-1986).
-Under hood work light


The first three are plug and play. For the dome/map light and cargo light, you will have to run the new harness through the bottom of the B-Pillar and through the roof to the opening for the dome light (Or Vice-Versa, it's personal choice). For the Cargo Light, you're gonna have to drill the hole in the cab. The headlamp on warning buzzer is the same unit as the seat belt/ignition buzzer from 83-86, so I don't really know how that works out. 1980-1982 trucks use two different buzzers, with the headlamp buzzer being on a separate harness. If you don't already have the courtesy light switch on the cab by the door hinges on the passenger side, that is plug and play too, and will allow the dome light to come on when you open the passenger door, just like the driver's side. And the under hood work light is also plug and play, you just have to make sure you have the extension harness too, but you already knew that.

 

Well, my wife and I made another trip to the JY last week and got a few more parts.
First we found a decent cowl panel from an '87-'91 model;



Which I promptly cleaned, stripped. sanded, primed and undercoated. It is now waiting to be installed.



A new cap for my charcoal canister;
before

after


Some new cables for the glove-box;


A new locking latch for the glove-box, which I re-keyed to match my truck door key;
old

new


A slightly used parking brake pedal cover;


A better than my old one passenger window handle;


An under-hood light assembly (that I'm not sure how to install yet;

Can anyone tell me how this mounts (or take a picture)?


And a new Ford grille emblem;



Total Cost was $25. Now I need a paint gun and some epoxy primer, so I can start prepping some of the body panels.

 

Looks good man!

 

Well, I started working on my Drip-Rails yesterday. I found some small rust holes on the driver's side, the passenger side looked good though. Since this is mostly my first attempt at any type of body work, I am looking for any and all advice that I can get as to what course of action that I need to take to repair this.

 

Here are more pictures of the drip-rail repairs;














More pictures to follow as the repair progresses.

 

Dave, something in my mind is telling me that there is a specific kind of caulking for that drip rail, that needs to be used, otherwise you will find more rust in the future. I can't recall any of the details, but a little searching on the net might get you that info.

maybe I am wrong...

 

I called a Collision Supply House and talked to them several times. Then I went by and questioned them some more before buying several items. I believe that I purchased good quality seam sealer, epoxy primer, and rust killer products to use on this repair. But, as you know, only time will tell.

 

I started sanding and priming and sanding and priming and sanding and priming on the areas that I could do myself. I get to try my new paint gun out this weekend when I spray some epoxy primer on what I've already sanded (This will be my practice).
I've been told by several people that it would be cheaper and easier to just replace the fenders, tailgate, and hood, rather than repair them.
I'm still looking for a local to me body-shop or body-person to repair my rust issues.