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ok guys, got a 89 f250 with a 351 from a 90 in it, 89 harness all around, replaced computer thanks to me making a dumb mistake, runs fairly good now, but having a few small issues..
the idle after it warms up is sitting around the 1300-1500 area, i know it should be a lot lower, about 700-800..
has a new egr valve position sensor and new TPS in it, run codes and get
44 - Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side).
33 - EGR valve opening not detected
18 - SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word failure.
13 - Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test low RPM check.
all codes are KOER
I tested the egr with a vacuum gauge and you can hear it open and close, and it will hold a vacuum all day if you want it too
i know the spout plug is in, so what does the other part mean, the spark angle word failure.
it does have a low rpm misfire, but i just replaced the plugs with motorcraft copper cores and new wireset and has good cap n rotor on it
I would try to fix the code 18 problem first. If the computer thinks the spout circuit is open, this would effect timing and idle. Does your truck have the distributor mounted icm or fender mounted style? I think the ignition controll module or pick-up in the distributor or it's wiring may be a cause. Start with a little di-electric grease on the spout plug terminals though.
the module is mounted on the dizzy, thing i dont get is that ( the code 18 ) was in a second code run, but when i ran the codes the first time it didnt show up, the motor wasnt fully warrmed yet tho, dont know if that matters
My 300 didn't like to idle low either. And I went WOT the other day and she obviously doesn't like going past 3K RPMS on the tach haha. Well now it idles at about 890 according to the digi timing light, but the tach doesn't match that, says a lil over 1K. Plus 890 is still out of spec.
I'm replacing my computer tomorrow just to see what happens among a few other things. But this ain't about me.
I am not familiar with the 351 at all, but here's my advice.
Pull a manifold vacuum check and make sure she's in spec. I know you've got codes, but I'd just double check that.
its a reman'd one from autozone, cost me 100 and came in next day, works fine for me, guess i got lucky with having one of the good autozones near me lol... what should the vacuum be at/around for reference?
Well on my vacuum gauge they say normal can be between 15 in Hg, and some number like 23 or maybe even 25. I'm at 20 on the 300 and school says 21 is IDEAL.
Harbor Freight vacuum gauge so yea, I'd say you wanna be in the low 20s.
Many idle problems can be traced back to vacuum leaks. Anything attached to the intake, a hose, fitting, etc. should be double checked for leaks. But, on todays' "newer" engines with all the sensors and the like, it is harder to find the cause of problem. Does your "higher" idle remain steady or does the engine "lope"? If the idle is steady the iac or idle air control valve would be a good thing to check. They can become stuck open or closed causing starting problems and low or high idle problems. If the idle hunts or "lopes" around then vacuum is very likely a problem. Burnt valves cause vacuum problems too.
did you try to clean your idle speed control? remove the two screws and spray gumout on the solenoid to remove the carbon, wd40 to lubricate then see how she codes.