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Hey Guys, I have a 97 F250 7.3 PS that will not start with the key. I can jump the solonoid on the starter and it cranks and runs fine. I have replaced both of the solonoids ( one on starter and one on the fender wall) today. Still have the same issue. Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks!
Oh yeah when I turn the key I can hear the solonoids clicking.
Last edited by moarkmike; Jul 27, 2010 at 11:39 PM.
Reason: additional information
If you have a automatic, check down on the driver's side of the tranny for the switch. If you jump the two red/blue wires together, it will bypass the switch.
I am installing the new neutral position sensor. The old one's lines for N did not line up. On the new one do I need to put the transmission in neutral or park and line that up with the new lines? Does it matter I think that they are connected inside.?
Thanks again for the help!
I am not sure your 97 is like the earlier models, but if you have tilt steering and it is like the older model trucks, there is a piece that breaks inside the column. See if you have a short collar around the column near the cluster. Take this collar off, and as you turn the key to start, you will see a rod moving back and forth along the top of the column as you turn the keyswitch back and forth.
Turn the key to start, and while holding the key to start, take some pliers and grab the rod that moves and push it down toward the cluster. If it cranks, then you have the famous broken piece inside the steering column.
If you can jump the solenoid and the truck starts, and you can hear the solenoid click when you turn the key but it won't start........then it just about has to be that solenoid....new or not they sometimes come bad from the store.
Late model F150 has a plastic actuator lever with a pin the pushes another plastic block within the colum to move the ignition switch into start position. First you need to establish whether you are getting voltage to the start terminal on the relay when you hold the key in start. You can test that with a simple test lamp. If you dont get power there you have an ignition switch circuit issue which you already attempted to correct with the neutral safety switch. If it is getting voltage then you need to check the connections at the relay you replaced.
When you attempt to start do you hear the relay clunking under the hood in start? If not you need to test the circuits from the switch.
As Franklin was stating, the actuator lever could be the culprit. It isnt the metal rod type though. Usually when it fails the metal pin falls out of the plastic geared actuator lever. This requires disassembly of the steering columb to replace. The actuator isnt very expensive, like maybe 15.00 but the labor time can be several hours in the shop.
But you need to isolate where the fault lies first. You could have possible even just put the wrong wires to the relay terminals when you replaced it. Ive seen that many times over the years, even done it myself a time or two.
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