what is the benefit of the push and pull?

 

It will allow a good amount of airflow without a shroud...if you're that set against one.

 

I have never heard of anyone using a push/pull setup on these trucks.

Enough air will be traveling through the grille and into the radiator and wouldn't require a pusher fan.

 

well im just trying to do it cheap as possible

how much do you think it would cost to have a shroud made, and would it be possible to make one myself

 

Adapt the original like in the above pic for free, or have a new one made for around $100 or less.

 

I've done it in the past, but it was a Durango...used the Taurus set-up and adapted it to my rig.

The Durango came factory with a mechanical fan and an electric fan that kicked on during heavy use or stop and go traffic. I set them up to work together and never had an issue. It enabled me to increase the HP by a few ponies while keeping it cooler during towing. I also cut the factory shroud out since it was no longer needed.

 

i think if you just put it on the top of the rad by the intake where the coolant is the hottest it would do the best job of cooling it because of the airflow through the grill

 

You don't need a shroud made. Many many many people of done these swaps and used the stock E fan shroud. It works just fine.

E fan swap should cost right at $100

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...cfan/index.php

 

Its set up to run "auto" which runs low when the adjustable t-stat comands, then high when the AC comes on, as well as manual "low" & "hi" & master off.

 

ive been told the sweet spot for the e-fans is the blades about 1 inch off the rad using a home made shroud to mount it and channel the airflow through the entire rad......

this wouldnt be a problem on open road....anything over 35 and any fan is about useless anyway.....but in heavy stop and go it makes all the difference in the world

 

anyone know how wide the shroud opening is off of the top of there head so i dont have to measure it lol

 

It really depends on the fan and it's original blade design. I do commercial fan testing so I'm not just throwing things I've read/heard out there. Did a project a few years back because, without going into details, all aftermarket electric fans are advertised with fake cfm ratings. They'll never do what's advertised by the manufacturer when you install them. Tried different mounting locations and, depending on the blade, they preform very differently. In all cases, they drop when used as a pusher. I wouldn't use a pusher on a truck unless you were going with a very undersized fan over the cooling condenser to help with the a.c. in city driving.

 

well any fans cfm is going to drop when u throw something infront of it and try to make it pull air threw it

ur going to get more airflow threw a single core rad. than u with with a 3 core and the same goes if u have a/c or not

u may be able to breath great threw a water hose then fill that same water hose with stir straws... ur not going to be breathing the same.... if what im getting at makes sense to u

so as far as fake cfm ratings idk i doubt it... they are probably measuring that with nothing infront of the fan

and the high and low fan settings... its not needed... im running my dual fan setup off a 95 firebird that had a 5.7 and it keeps my 5.0 nice and cool even with the single core rad...

i used the preset thermostat that is at 185*F and i also wired it to come on with the a/c

if one of the fan motors burn up i can go to the parts store and get a new one for $25 unplug and unbolt the old one throw the new one on and plug it in then its good to go

yes i got the wiring harness with my fans... shroud too

 

I used the word fake intentionally, not that they were tested against 'nothing', which is advertised as '0' s.p or t.s.p. What isn't widely known is their is no standardized testing process's for fans and a lot of the advertised cfm's you see in ads are made up. Hitokori you obviously have an idea of the fundamentals of airflow, but unfortunately, most don't and think a 3000 cfm fan will move that. What I found was when I contacted some manufacturers to ask about their ratings, they said they would not be affected when against a radiator, which you obviously know is b.s. They were the first fans I tested and at 0 s.p. they weren't within a 1000 cfm of what they advertised. Once I started contacting people and letting them know what I did, had some manufacturers level with me on some of what's going on in the industry and it's such a scam, but 'everyone is doing it'. I did airflow testing on my expedition at the time this all started, needed 2k through the radiator for cooling based on measurements taken with calibrated equipment...(but keep in mind a fan advertised at 2k won't move that).

I was working to develop a standard for an offshoot of my business, but figured out no one would pay for it because all it would do is expose the crap that's out there.

 

lol some people are greedy i guess.... all about making money and sticking it to the customers

:P but as far as paying these $300-$500 e-fan setups that are out there... **** that....

there was a bunch of V8's put in cars... some have radiators almost the same with as these trucks... the one i have is like 1/2" smaller than the radiator and if i would have centered it it would have been a 1/4" on the left and right... up and down it was the same

the way i figured it... if i have to go buy 2 new motors for the fans im still coming out cheaper than anything u can go buy new lol and it work just as good if not better