Maybe but you will have to do more testing of the fuel pressure. Note that it may not be the running selected pump that is bad, so check with each pump selected one at a time. If you have a tank that is filling from the other then that is one with the bad valves.


Yes, ground pin #6 or short it to pin #2 of the EEC self-test plug and turn on the key with the fuel pressure tester already hooked up. A V-8 should have 40-45 PSI and a I-6 should have 55-60 PSI.


Maybe.


No, you start the engine then with the engine running you ground the STI wire and then the lamp will start flashing the codes out.

 

Thanks for the reply. I've been reloading that page every few minutes hoping for your reply. It makes me wonder how people fixed cars before they had forums.
OK, my next step seems to be to get a fuel pressure gauge. AutoZone lends them with a deposit, I've learned. Find the fuel rail (I should be able to do that), and test the pressure. On 1983 Ford Bronco '90-96 Fuel Pump System picture | SuperMotors.net
"For the 4.9L EFI engine, the pump can supply 90 liters (23.7 gallons) per hour at 380 kPa (55 psi). " This agrees with you. Actually, I hope the pressure is bad. Then I know what to do.

Oh, I didn't explain before, but this truck only has one tank, the rear.

So what's the story on the screenname "Subford"? There must be some meaning there. You work under them?
~~ Nehmo

 

Well yes I do work under them when not working from above.
But the name comes from of my two main interest are WW II all electric Submarines (Namely the USS COD SS-224 a World War II Fleet Submarine) and Ford pickup trucks. My quest is to know how everything works on both. So that is where the name comes from.

 

I got a fuel pressure gauge and connected it at the Schrader valve. The pressure was plenty high. Apparently, the fuel pump is OK. (At least that part it done.) When I started the engine, this time the engine ran better. But the idle was very high, and I tried to lower it by backing off on a screw that goes vertically, and the bottom of which limits the turning of a shaft of the throttle.
But I didn't have a battery jump available, and couldn't restart the engine after I turned it off.
When I start it cold, it's hard to start, and the idle position of the throttle isn't high enough to keep the engine running. But then after it warms a bit, the engine runs way too fast at idle. It seems there is something wrong here.
So I guess the problem now is to get it to consistently run well. And do something to make it run at the proper idle speed.
I'm not sure what's next. I suppose I'll play it by ear. And, of course, I still need to fix the electrical issue of the pump always being on.

~~ Nehmo

 

The idle is very high even with the stop screw completely unscrewed. Also, the engine doesn't quite respond well to the throttle. It kind of coughs and then catches up to the speed. I realize that isn't a clear description, but it's difficult to describe.

Also, and this is bad, there are two serious water leaks, one from the front right freeze plug and another form a place I can't see, but it may be another freeze plug. It's on the right side of the engine, above the front of the starter and to the left of where a braided covered tube comes off in the back direction from the exhaust.

Now there's two electrical connections or plugs I'd like to know where they go.

Between the engine block and the distributor there's a harness of wires going back and it splits into two sets of wires to the rear of the distributor, one going back and one up. The up one has a plug with 2 connections female in line with each other. It's like a regular 2 wire female 120 v plug but with the flat connectors turned 90 degrees to be in a straight line.

The other connector is on the right side of the engine coming out between two intake tubes in the center of the engine.

So that's the story so far. The water leaks are really depressing. I don't see how I can fix them without removing some major stuff, maybe even removing the engine. And I don't have the tools to take out the engine.

~~ Nehmo

 

As I said early on I am not too familiar with the I-6 (300) engine so I can not help much on where plugs go.
I will say that you should not have turned that screw unless someone else has. It is factory set and hard to get it back where it belongs.

Sounds like you may have TPS and IAC valve problems.

 

I think I can replace the freeze plugs without removing the engine. I can get to the front one by removing a number of obstructing items first, like the air pump and a bracket below it. I can get to the rear freeze plug by cutting a part of the fender behind the tire, and removing that braid-covered pipe coming from the exhaust. This doesn't look like fun. A major problem is that I only have odd tools, something here, something there.
Once those are fixed, I can fill it with water and run the engine hot. Then I can begin working on the engine's behavior.
Yes, I just read up on IAC, Idle Air Control Valve How Does an Idle Air Control Valve Work? IAC
It sounds like that may be the problem. Thanks again.
~~ Nehmo

 

I cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve, but before I deal with the engine running problems, I need to replace the leaking freeze plugs, the front one and the rear one. Both are difficult to get to, and I don't know how to proceed. I suppose, I just start taking off things until I can reach them. If I don't have a tool, then I need to get it. Simple enough, but daunting.
It's very unlikely the leaks will be stopped by some radiator additive. They are too big.
I'll report back when I get this part done.

 

Have you gotten your problems figured out? I see that it has been several months, how did things turn out?

 

I just saw that it was July when I was working on that truck. It was upsetting. I did all that work to that truck and got nothing. Now it needs core plugs before I can begin figuring out the engine problem.
No. I didn't finish fixing it. I do have it in a place where I can work on it, but I gave up.
If I had no other problems, then, sure I'd get it done. But too many other things happened. I'm not sure this is the place for that kind of babble. Well, to sum it up, I had problems with my wife going to jail, problems with not having enough money for rent, legal stuff, transportation, etc.
I suppose I could begin work on it again.

~~ Nehmo

 

Life is rough everywhere pal, your in good company. I hope things get better for you. One step at a time, this is where you decide what priorities take priority. By the sound of it, your truck is not going to be stolen any time soon, so if it were me, this one would be on the back-burner.

 

.

....hey everyone a newbie here to theses forums, stumbled across this thread after going through the same problem with my 1995 F350, 5.8L...giving a code 95, and its driving me nuts!...my question is will a couple really bad spark plug wires possibly be the causing me all this grief?

 

A 95 should be showing 3 digit codes. Go to fordfuelinjection.com or Steve83s page over at the super motor site for info and codes.
regards
rikard

 

....its a code 542

 

Did you ground pin #6 of the test connector with the key on?
This will set code 542.