new 2010 PSD - buy?
Metallic silver XLT listed $50,900, discounted $36,200
Metallic gray XLT, about the same list price discounted to $42,000
White/gray Cabelas edition, a bit higher price -$54,000 list $42,000 discounted.
I talked to a salesmen last night but will call back here after noon. I am running out for some test driving in town. All 3 of these trucks are 550 miles/4 states away.
What questions can you guys think of that I need to ask?
The two XLT's are regular 4x4's with the dial on the dash. Is the only addition to the FX4 package skid plates? Or are there other additions? Are there any axles offered on 4x4's that are NOT locking rears (that is definitely one of my questions to the guy is what axles - really want a locker - winter in the snow and off road adventures). Also I need to find out what gears they have. What is more common on an F250 - 3.55's or 3.73's? The salesmen said he was guessing they are 3.73's but he didn't know for sure (wasn't by a computer to check). Will the codes say "limited slip" for a locker, or something else?
Other than that I am not sure anything else really matters. The two XLT's have the exact same interior, just one is silver the other is dk. gray outside. All have front buckets. Cabelas has leather with wood trim like a lariat or king ranch, I think its on par with a king ranch - a step up from a lariat.
I am sure there are some questions you guys can come up with that I should find out equipment/feature-wise.
My truck right now is a 2003 silverado z71 and it has what I assume would be a true locking axle - I've used it before. A few winters back I drove the right side of the truck in to a snow bank in 2 wheel drive to test it. The right rear wheel spun and I didn't go anywhere, then the axle locked and I drove through with my left wheel on the pavement like I wasn't in the snow bank.
Does a limited slip put full power to both wheels or does it "add resistance" to the one that is spinning so that the resistance on the spinning wheel is added back in to the wheel with traction in the form of torq to pull the vehicle through?
I guess I just want to avoid the possibility of engaging 4 wheel drive and having one wheel on each axle having no traction without the possibility of pulling through on the wheels (or at least one) with traction. Or even just in 2 wheel drive have one wheel with no traction getting all the power... Not good.
there is no user controllable setting.. its all on, all the time.. slip when u need to..
if u are stuck in mud or snow, both wheels will turn together..
one might get u out, the other not.
when worn, the clutches no longer grab, and its like an open diff.
a locker manually locks the two axles together with NO slippage..
and generally should NOT be locked on dry pavement. (same as for 4x4 drive). Usually these have manual controls, like 4x4.
limited slip, like lockers, are dangerous on wet pavement, and are not the default diff due to this issue. (also not on police cars for the same reason)..
(with no user control, its hard to manage the boundary issues)
on a working LSD, if one wheel turns, both will.. so, take off from a light, and turn, on wet pavement, and the back end will break loose and come around on you.
I got that learning experience at 17 with my girlfriend in the car, showing off.. smashed my dads Baracuda into the guardrail..
Police don't need that added issue in pursuit..
on an Open Diff, one wheel is NOT turning..
sam

Gotcha on the clutches. Better than an open diff but still not quite like a locker. Oh well. Still a good option I think.
I am working the deal right now - doing a trade-in evaluation of my truck and working out some details.
Auto Trader listing
I never had a diesel til the 6.4 and it is simply amazing..
Sam
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Theres pictures in the autotrader link in my last post.
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I have work training all next week so I won't be able to get out there to drive it home until Friday or Saturday at the soonest. Road trip!
Probably what is going to happen is I will need to pay the taxes and all when I get home with the truck. That means I can't use that money in my check for the down payment.
Now - heres my next question. If I can use my credit card to make a "purchase" towards the down payment I could squeeze off $75/month (at 72 months!) and bring my payment to a hair under $350/month. Can I do that?
They already charged me $500 on my debit card (they ran it like a credit card). So I could theoretically call back and dump a load the same way with my credit card right?
The way I look at it is I can wipe off the credit card the same way I have been dumping in to my "truck fund" - knock it off quick. It would minimize interest and save me $75/month in payments for 6 years.
Otherwise I'm looking at around $425/month.















