Need help guys.
Need help guys.
Hey everybody, I'm new to these fourms and to the truck buying experience. I'm 20 and I am in the market for a 2011 Ford F250.
I went on Ford's website and built and priced my own Superduty. I built a Lariat 4x4, short bed, chrome everything. Which is what I want bu the tag was a little to high at 43k. Now I am going to go in with 10k down but I was wondering if I could lower the price before I confirm my purchase. Is there a way for the sticker price to come down, or say deal with the salesman. Incentives that anybody used or anything?
Just trying to weigh my options before spending 44k.. Thanks alot everybody ").
I went on Ford's website and built and priced my own Superduty. I built a Lariat 4x4, short bed, chrome everything. Which is what I want bu the tag was a little to high at 43k. Now I am going to go in with 10k down but I was wondering if I could lower the price before I confirm my purchase. Is there a way for the sticker price to come down, or say deal with the salesman. Incentives that anybody used or anything?
Just trying to weigh my options before spending 44k.. Thanks alot everybody ").
I'm already making 90k a year. I'm done with my college. I got an API cert. I'm in the NDT industry. I'm well on my way to 6 figures
I dont know exactly what you do, or what you went to school for, but if you are making 90k a year at 20 that puts you having a two year degree at best and having just started in the work field. I cant think of a single job that pays that good with that kind of schooling (not calling bs). I would think there would have to be more to the story... Live in an area with insane cost of living? Is 90k gross income on a 1099 job and you haven't taken into account taxes and other expenses?
Not trying to cause an issue here, but I believe most users of this site come here for information and advice on Ford trucks. Not real sure this is the right place to be giving advice on life choices. There are plenty of other places this young person can go for that. Good luck with your purchase SuperDutyFiend and make sure you shop around for the best deal. It is not all about purchase price (I believe you will find the prices fairly close around your area), check into the other things the dealership provides as well. Don't forget to check into some "slightly used" vehicles.
with the initial batch of 2011's just out, and demand high, there has been no flex in the prices yet.. next summer when the 12's are out will be the first time to see price fluctuation on the remaining in stock 11's..
Sam
Sam
Trending Topics
42k is LOW for a new superduty. If you cant afford that then you shouldnt be getting a brand new one. Life is too short to spend that much on a truck at your age. Unless you have a house already and something significant was put down as a down payment its a stupid life decision to be looking at a truck like that. Im 24 and my first year in business I made close to what you did (now that WAS my best year), and I thought about buying a new truck.
I dont know exactly what you do, or what you went to school for, but if you are making 90k a year at 20 that puts you having a two year degree at best and having just started in the work field. I cant think of a single job that pays that good with that kind of schooling (not calling bs). I would think there would have to be more to the story... Live in an area with insane cost of living? Is 90k gross income on a 1099 job and you haven't taken into account taxes and other expenses?
I dont know exactly what you do, or what you went to school for, but if you are making 90k a year at 20 that puts you having a two year degree at best and having just started in the work field. I cant think of a single job that pays that good with that kind of schooling (not calling bs). I would think there would have to be more to the story... Live in an area with insane cost of living? Is 90k gross income on a 1099 job and you haven't taken into account taxes and other expenses?
And yes I have a house. A beautiful fiancé, and a 3 year old daughter. I'm still moving up in my job and this year I'm well on my way to make $110k.
Thanks for anybody concern about what you think I should do, and I don't think I'm going to be purchasing the lariat. Ill stick with the XLT, 4 door, short bed.
A lot of jealous spews from this thread. LOL.
I too have a big problem spending 42K on a pick up truck. You could always wait a bit or try to find a used one for a bit less. IMO there really isn't much differece between a XLT and a Lariat. I actually prefer the XLT.
I too have a big problem spending 42K on a pick up truck. You could always wait a bit or try to find a used one for a bit less. IMO there really isn't much differece between a XLT and a Lariat. I actually prefer the XLT.
Go to KBB.com. Look at the price of what you build in the invoice side. The sticker is a joke and anyone who pays sticker is the fool PT Barnum was speaking of. A reasonable offer is $500 over invoice. That's for something on the lot. Invoice on anything ordered. Dealer makes 3% of sticker at invoice sale. So $30,000 sticker is $900 at invoice. Make the truck $25000 invoice and potential $5900 profit. That is not including dealer incentives for units.
Building a truck on Ford's website will only get you the MSRP. The price that EVERYONE should be looking at & haggling for is the invoice price. Edmunds.com will also let you build a Super Duty and see both the invoice & MSRP prices.
If you order the truck of your dreams, the dealership will take a small down payment. This is generally a non-refundable deposit, but it does get applied towards the purchase of the truck. The wait is usually somewhere in the 6 - 10 weeks range.
Regardless of whether you order & wait, pick your truck from a dealership's inventory, or have your dealership run a search for a truck that matches your criteria, it is important to keep that invoice price in mind. Paying MSRP for any new car or truck is unwarranted, as they can all be bought for something closer to the vehicle's invoice price.
Be prepared to haggle. In 20+ years of new car/truck buying, my deals have ran the full range. I have had some dealerships that immediately disclosed & agreed upon the invoice price. I have used Ford's X Plan pricing which guarantees a sales price right around invoice price; X Plan is currently 0.4% below invoice. I have also left a dealership, a custom ordered Harley-Davidson Super Duty, and my $500 down payment when the sales team was unwilling to negotiate with me. In the end, I bought the truck, at invoice nonetheless, but I definitely made them sweat before that. I have also walked out of dealership A's office because they were not working with me. I went across town to dealership B, had them search for the truck on dealership A's lot, and bought it from them...simply because they worked with me.
The bottom line is to prepare yourself; knowledge, patience, and determination are key! Know what the invoice price of a given truck is before you start negotiations. Hell, having an idea what certain options cost is a good thing if you are looking at dealer inventory. And, have the patience to negotiate with invoice price as your target. And, have the determination to walk away if you are not making any progress. There is always another dealership that will be more willing to make the sale.
Good luck!
If you order the truck of your dreams, the dealership will take a small down payment. This is generally a non-refundable deposit, but it does get applied towards the purchase of the truck. The wait is usually somewhere in the 6 - 10 weeks range.
Regardless of whether you order & wait, pick your truck from a dealership's inventory, or have your dealership run a search for a truck that matches your criteria, it is important to keep that invoice price in mind. Paying MSRP for any new car or truck is unwarranted, as they can all be bought for something closer to the vehicle's invoice price.
Be prepared to haggle. In 20+ years of new car/truck buying, my deals have ran the full range. I have had some dealerships that immediately disclosed & agreed upon the invoice price. I have used Ford's X Plan pricing which guarantees a sales price right around invoice price; X Plan is currently 0.4% below invoice. I have also left a dealership, a custom ordered Harley-Davidson Super Duty, and my $500 down payment when the sales team was unwilling to negotiate with me. In the end, I bought the truck, at invoice nonetheless, but I definitely made them sweat before that. I have also walked out of dealership A's office because they were not working with me. I went across town to dealership B, had them search for the truck on dealership A's lot, and bought it from them...simply because they worked with me.
The bottom line is to prepare yourself; knowledge, patience, and determination are key! Know what the invoice price of a given truck is before you start negotiations. Hell, having an idea what certain options cost is a good thing if you are looking at dealer inventory. And, have the patience to negotiate with invoice price as your target. And, have the determination to walk away if you are not making any progress. There is always another dealership that will be more willing to make the sale.
Good luck!
Like some said - Use Edmunds... Get invoice & Neg from there...
I bought a 2011 -250 XLT Supercab 6.2 FX4 etc... MSRP $40,225 Dealer gave me invoice minus 500 minus 1500 ford rebate (June rebate - bought the last day of june) All told - 35K even then TTL
I built the truck several ways to see the diff in prices on stuff that I wanted and the stuff I needed. good way to figure how much you really want to spend for some sort of feature.
Remember if you spending that much get exactly what you want don't let them sell you something else - you hold the KING (cash)..
Check the internet - lots of time they give you rebates for Ford financing, or other things like that..
My opinions might not matter... But they work for me
I bought a 2011 -250 XLT Supercab 6.2 FX4 etc... MSRP $40,225 Dealer gave me invoice minus 500 minus 1500 ford rebate (June rebate - bought the last day of june) All told - 35K even then TTL
I built the truck several ways to see the diff in prices on stuff that I wanted and the stuff I needed. good way to figure how much you really want to spend for some sort of feature.
Remember if you spending that much get exactly what you want don't let them sell you something else - you hold the KING (cash)..
Check the internet - lots of time they give you rebates for Ford financing, or other things like that..
My opinions might not matter... But they work for me
I agree with "Futuresweets" in saying 42k is LOW for a Lariat...I personally built one like what the OP said just now, and it was 43k as a 4X2 SCab, with the 6.2l...
To the OP...The amount of money you put down doesn't mean squat to the dealership. (other than it makes it easier for them to find you financing) If anything, it hurts them on how much money they make off you on the interest rate for the financed amount. (More money down = lower interest rate...USUALLY, but not so much on a new model year) If I'm not paying cash for the vehicle, I put the minimum down that will get me the best interest rate, then contact that bank/CU, and work out a new deal after the sale. Most financial institutions will do that nowadays (as they need capital in hand) if you are wanting to put a decent chunk of change down. It makes it easier for them if you default in the future. I'd do it for any interest rate over 1.9%. 1.9% is MY pain threshold when it comes to financing a vehicle. You just have to find yours.
Regardless, I'd go through my bank or credit union first and see what they will finance a new vehicle for before EVER walking into a dealership and hearing their interest rate quotes.
To the OP...The amount of money you put down doesn't mean squat to the dealership. (other than it makes it easier for them to find you financing) If anything, it hurts them on how much money they make off you on the interest rate for the financed amount. (More money down = lower interest rate...USUALLY, but not so much on a new model year) If I'm not paying cash for the vehicle, I put the minimum down that will get me the best interest rate, then contact that bank/CU, and work out a new deal after the sale. Most financial institutions will do that nowadays (as they need capital in hand) if you are wanting to put a decent chunk of change down. It makes it easier for them if you default in the future. I'd do it for any interest rate over 1.9%. 1.9% is MY pain threshold when it comes to financing a vehicle. You just have to find yours.
Regardless, I'd go through my bank or credit union first and see what they will finance a new vehicle for before EVER walking into a dealership and hearing their interest rate quotes.









