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Well, now I'm not convinced that it is a wiring issue. The gauge isn't flickering so much as pulsing. Its a very regular pulse, not completely dying out between pulses, but going between bright and dim. Pin 1 of the connector shows 12V, pin 2 varies smoothly with the dimmer switch, and pin 3 shows continuity with ground. The gauge works fine (I think) otherwise. I can get the EGTs up to about 950 at about 1500 with the go peddle mashed, then as the turbo spools, they drop to about 800 for the rest of the run up to speed. About 550 to 600 at 70 mph cruising.
Can you measure the voltage on the dimmer wire when the flickering starts? Check the voltage directly at the exposed terminals on the orange connector, which you see as the orange connector is plugged into the back of the gauge, looking down from the top of the gauge.
I'm just guessing here because I'm @ work, but the pulsing never really goes away, it just kind of washes out when the lights get bright enough. And below 7 or 8 volts on the lighting circuit, the gauge just goes dark. I don't know for sure the exact number, but thats about where its at just going off of the position of the dimmer switch. I don't know if the inputs are pulsing somehow, I'm measuring with a digital multimeter, not a analog, so I cant see if there is a pulse in the voltage that happens to be getting between my meters sampling rate, but I don't think that there is. Any of this help?
I the pulsing never really goes away, it just kind of washes out when the lights
can you see the "pulsing" in the headlights or interior lights? I purchased a bad alternator from NAPA, they kept telling me it was good because their bench tester didn't sample fast enough to catch the fact 1/2 the rectifier diode array was open. With my Fluke 87 you could see the voltage alternating between 12.2 and 14.3V. The headlight pulsing was way annoying.
If the Isspro gauges have LED's they are going to be much more susceptible to impure DC voltage, this may actually be a charging issue.
with the truck off and the lights on is the problem still present?
can you see the "pulsing" in the headlights or interior lights? I purchased a bad alternator from NAPA, they kept telling me it was good because their bench tester didn't sample fast enough to catch the fact 1/2 the rectifier diode array was open. With my Fluke 87 you could see the voltage alternating between 12.2 and 14.3V. The headlight pulsing was way annoying.
If the Isspro gauges have LED's they are going to be much more susceptible to impure DC voltage, this may actually be a charging issue.
with the truck off and the lights on is the problem still present?
I second that! I have the problem also when I try to dim them to just above being off. Hmmm, I wonder if there is a filter/rectifier we could put in............
I just installed my Isspro EV2 pryometer, and I have a small(hopefully) issue here. I used the same light blue wire with red trace that Diesel Manor is showing in their install pics, but when I turn my lights on the backlighting the gauge just flickers. I can get it to stop flickering by turning it all the way up, but then that is just entirely too bright. If i turn it down, the light starts to flicker, then just goes out at about 2/3 of full bright on the dimmer switch. Do I have a bad connection, need to use a different wire, to tap into? Just looking for a little direction at the moment. Otherwise the gauge appears to work just fine. Thanks in advance.
My gauges do the same thing. I keep my dimmer on the brightest setting anyway, so it really isn't an issue for me. I actually have a total of 5 gauges now, 3 of them are EV2, one is an EV (EV1?) and another is the gauge that came with my Airlift kit. They all are tapped into the same wire from the dimmer switch. If I turn the dimmer down then my EV2 gauges start to flicker...down a little more and they go black.
My other 2 gauges remain lit and dim with the dash like normal.
EDIT: Upon further inspection....2 of the 3 EV2 gauges actually say "Performax" on the faceplate but I didn't get the processor for the Performax system. Could this be the issue? I thought I ordered the regular EV2 gauges....
My gauges do the same thing. I keep my dimmer on the brightest setting anyway, so it really isn't an issue for me. I actually have a total of 5 gauges now, 3 of them are EV2, one is an EV (EV1?) and another is the gauge that came with my Airlift kit. They all are tapped into the same wire from the dimmer switch. If I turn the dimmer down then my EV2 gauges start to flicker...down a little more and they go black.
My other 2 gauges remain lit and dim with the dash like normal.
EDIT: Upon further inspection....2 of the 3 EV2 gauges actually say "Performax" on the faceplate but I didn't get the processor for the Performax system. Could this be the issue? I thought I ordered the regular EV2 gauges....
All the EV2 gauges use the same face plate as the Performax line. If they work without the ESP, then there EV2's
i know my ev2 pulses with out the truck running, mine also is tied into 2 other guages, pyro and boost (ev1 guages) do not pulse..with truck running my volt is 13-14 on the scanguage2...
Its rather weird that you guys are experancing this... I have been running performax and EV2 gauges for about 4 years, and have never had this on the EV2, but did on the performax... I'll take a video tonight of my EV2 gauges and see what comes up.
Mine pulse as well without the engine running. The engine wasn't running when I first powered up the gauge, and it was doing it then. Actually, most, if not all of my voltmeter readings have been taken with engine off. I did notice this evening though that the pulse frequency seems to change with the position of the dimmer switch. Right before it goes black, its pulsing pretty quick, and it slows down as you turn it back up until you don't notice it anymore. The dimmer switch is surely just a potentiometer ins't it? I mean, there is no way that the dimmer switch is putting out some kind of pulse signal, is there? That's just be dumb. Maybe this wouldn't be such a problem if I didn't like to run my interior lights just bright enough to read the dash, but I don't like washing out my vision at night with bright interior lights.
Mine pulse as well without the engine running. The engine wasn't running when I first powered up the gauge, and it was doing it then. Actually, most, if not all of my voltmeter readings have been taken with engine off. I did notice this evening though that the pulse frequency seems to change with the position of the dimmer switch. Right before it goes black, its pulsing pretty quick, and it slows down as you turn it back up until you don't notice it anymore. The dimmer switch is surely just a potentiometer ins't it? I mean, there is no way that the dimmer switch is putting out some kind of pulse signal, is there? That's just be dumb. Maybe this wouldn't be such a problem if I didn't like to run my interior lights just bright enough to read the dash, but I don't like washing out my vision at night with bright interior lights.
Fords use a PWM on there dimmer lights, which can cause issues with LED type lights, but I am not sure of your issue...
Soon as it gets dark I will take a video of mine and see...
Michael and I will have to look this one over. I never run with my gauges that low so I have never seen it. Its only at that point where the LED's want to turn off and the PWM of the Ford dimmer is causing interference and surging.
Joe, it appears that your gauges go a lot lower than mine do before they shut off. Mine will go completely black at 60 or 70% of full bright. I didn't realize that Ford uses a PWM signal to dim the dash. That could explain it I guess. Anybody got an idea of what size capacitor it would take to maybe smooth this out? I'm willing to stick one in there and give it a shot.
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