Cold start Oil PSI problem
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Warrenton, VA
Cold start Oil PSI problem
'03 7.3L 205K
On a Cold start only, the reservoir for the HPOP will go dry and stall (unless I get on the throttle right away) Anyways, I know its not getting filled properly on a cold start. I installed a mechanical oil PSI gauge on the reservoir and at a main oil gallery plug on the side of the engine block. On a cold start, there is no PSI for about 7-10 seconds. The oil gallery and reservoir receive PSI at the same time, and once received the PSI is great. So I'm thinking the possibility of a worn engine lube pump, suction problem from pickup tube, or maybe worn out bearings....but I'd probably rule that out since the PSI is good once received. Has anyone had a similar problem? Or know what might be the cause?
Thanks
On a Cold start only, the reservoir for the HPOP will go dry and stall (unless I get on the throttle right away) Anyways, I know its not getting filled properly on a cold start. I installed a mechanical oil PSI gauge on the reservoir and at a main oil gallery plug on the side of the engine block. On a cold start, there is no PSI for about 7-10 seconds. The oil gallery and reservoir receive PSI at the same time, and once received the PSI is great. So I'm thinking the possibility of a worn engine lube pump, suction problem from pickup tube, or maybe worn out bearings....but I'd probably rule that out since the PSI is good once received. Has anyone had a similar problem? Or know what might be the cause?
Thanks
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Warrenton, VA
The reservoir does Not leak down. It'll sit for weeks and stay full. The oil is depleted on startup because it's not getting filled properly. Also wanted to add....I'm ruling out the short circuit in the front of the block because the reservoir and main oil gallery received PSI at the same time. If I don't have PSI down at the crank how could I have it at the reservoir? ha ha. Anyways, it's really strange...it's only a problem on cold start. On a warm/hot restart it's ok. I think the oil PSI still takes longer than normal, but it doesn't cause any trouble performance wise. Just trying to come up with a plan of action as far as what to try next.
Because racetruck
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,786
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From: Monterey Bay, CA
I am having the same issue. Have been for a while. I am figuring its the LPOP wearing out. The problem is not nearly as bad on fresh oil. But within 500 to 1000 miles its back again. Granted I have 232K on my truck
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From: Warrenton, VA
Yeah, I'm think'n a lot of these 7.3's are have'n the same problems with high mileage. To me it doesn't seem that much worse to put a lube oil pump on than a water pump, considering it bolts to the front of the timing cover. One than that really makes me wonder....is the timing cover wearing out at all, since the pump bolts right up in front. I believe it's a gerotor type pump, which really doesn't accumulate wear. Atleast on anything I normally deal with, that's the absolute best type of pump there is. There's got to be more out there with this problem? haha.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
A scored front cover is a possibility. Of course the only way to find that out is to pull the oil pump. The down side to a worn front cover is you have to pull the motor to get the front cover off.
A bad LPOP (low pressure oil pump) is pretty rare on these motors since they are the gerotor design as you mentioned, but sometimes they do fail. You can read at this link for some more info. Diesel Technician Society Scroll down to the the Technicians High Pressure Pump guide. It talks about LPOP issues in item #5.
A bad LPOP (low pressure oil pump) is pretty rare on these motors since they are the gerotor design as you mentioned, but sometimes they do fail. You can read at this link for some more info. Diesel Technician Society Scroll down to the the Technicians High Pressure Pump guide. It talks about LPOP issues in item #5.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: South Carolina
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Senior User
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From: Warrenton, VA
F350-6,
Yeah, I saved that PDF a long time ago. I totally forgot about the possibility of the pump housing to have wear. (as mentioned in#5). I probably won't have the opportunity to pull anything apart in the near future, I was hoping that someone had a similar problem with a fix...in hopes that I can do the repairs in a short amount of time. The application I'm working on is an '03 F550, 2WD. Would the engine still have to be removed to change the front cover if required???
Yeah, I saved that PDF a long time ago. I totally forgot about the possibility of the pump housing to have wear. (as mentioned in#5). I probably won't have the opportunity to pull anything apart in the near future, I was hoping that someone had a similar problem with a fix...in hopes that I can do the repairs in a short amount of time. The application I'm working on is an '03 F550, 2WD. Would the engine still have to be removed to change the front cover if required???
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
No you don't "have to" pull the motor. You could unbolt the motor and transmission mounts, jack up the motor until the turbo touches the cowl, then unbolt the oil pan, break the seal, and just have enough room to unbolt the pick up. Then you just need to wait long enough for the oil to quite draining down, and you have to spend enough time with some home made scraper tools getting the old RTV (oil pan gasket) off the block and pan to get a good clean surface, then it's just a matter of holding your mouth right and getting the bolts started for the pick up tube, putting the IH gray RTV on the pan, and putting it all back together.
If you've got the space and tools, pulling the motor would be a quicker repair.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
The front cover isn't always worn Peter. There's a good chance that the LPOP can be replaced without having to remove the LPOP. Then it's like WrenchHead84 said. Really no worse than just changing a water pump.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Warrenton, VA
I was thought'n that the cross member was gonna cause an issue. I'm think'n I should probably remove and inspect the lube pump, housing, and front cover before I go and pull the pan and/or engine. I put a clutch in this truck not to long ago, and I have this suspicion that the oil pan has been off before sometime in it's life. So who know if someone has been chasing this problem, or if someone created this problem...or the pan could of just been leaking. Bottom line, I know I'm not the only one out there with this problem, and I think I'm on a quest to fix it. ha ha.
