188000 miles without oil changes!
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I really cannot understand the reasoning behind "paint looks rough so I will totally neglect the motor" theory, but anyway. I have never kerosened a motor, but do use Motor Flush a lot and love it! Made by Gunk, you put it in, run it for five minutes, and drain. You will be amazed how much it breaks down sludge and crap!
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From: Hernando Ms.
I really cannot understand the reasoning behind "paint looks rough so I will totally neglect the motor" theory, but anyway. I have never kerosened a motor, but do use Motor Flush a lot and love it! Made by Gunk, you put it in, run it for five minutes, and drain. You will be amazed how much it breaks down sludge and crap!
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Fayetteville, NC
i wouldnt run it with just kerosene......pull the coil wire and crank it for a couple minutes intermittently to build up pressure and wash the gunk out......
after you do that, just drain it and add fresh repeat....you have to use a new filter everytime though .....they will gunk up fast
the first new oil you put in after this, just let it idle/1/4 throttle for 10 minutes or so.....then drain that and put new fresh oil in, and new filter....should be ready for a road trip then ......my first job was in a salvage yard.....the owner cleaned more engines like this then i can remember.......lol, he would also take care of leaking pan gaskets/valve covers with a quart of tranny fluid in with the oil.....but that one comes back to haunt you, lol
after you do that, just drain it and add fresh repeat....you have to use a new filter everytime though .....they will gunk up fast
the first new oil you put in after this, just let it idle/1/4 throttle for 10 minutes or so.....then drain that and put new fresh oil in, and new filter....should be ready for a road trip then ......my first job was in a salvage yard.....the owner cleaned more engines like this then i can remember.......lol, he would also take care of leaking pan gaskets/valve covers with a quart of tranny fluid in with the oil.....but that one comes back to haunt you, lol
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From: Hernando Ms.
Ok I started with the deisel fuel yesterday. Drained the oil (no metal shavings in it!!!) put the plug back in it and filled the pump spayer up and just spayed down the heads, let it soak, droped the plug and watched alot of oily deisel come out with clumps of sludge. put plug back in and repeted spraying and left it to sit until I get home this evening. Still couldnt find and shavings in the deisel draining.
Last edited by Layed Out 100; Jul 20, 2010 at 02:34 PM. Reason: spelling
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From: Vicksburg, MS
If it is not knocking now I wouldn't change the oil pump and phasers until after I flushed it. You probably need timing chains too. If you run that much crud through a new pump it would probably ruin it. You should clean your oil pump screen before you flush it. I would use some oil with the diesel or kerosene though. You need enough oil pressure to keep the top end well oiled or you may need a motor sooner than you did.
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From: Hernando Ms.
Ok, spayed it with deisel one more time,drained it and removed the crossmember under the oilpan....tightest four bolts in the world! I droped the pan and found metal shavings. after looking from under it with a flash light. Teeth are chipped on the gear in front of the timming chain. No chunks of metal could be found just shinny particles. although I did find a small piece of plastic in the pan.
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From: Hernando Ms.
If it is not knocking now I wouldn't change the oil pump and phasers until after I flushed it. You probably need timing chains too. If you run that much crud through a new pump it would probably ruin it. You should clean your oil pump screen before you flush it. I would use some oil with the diesel or kerosene though. You need enough oil pressure to keep the top end well oiled or you may need a motor sooner than you did.
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From: Vicksburg, MS
If you have plastic in the pan it is probably a timing chain guide breaking up or wearing. After you get it cleaned out you could use some Rislone in you next oil changes, it slowly cleans the sludge out as you drive. With that amount of miles it may find or cause a leak though.
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From: Hernando Ms.
I put the truck into a local shop, I just got a call from them today saying they got it fixed. They replaced the timming chains, tensioners,guides and the spark plug boots.but not the plugs for $1,700.00 total. Ok kinda what I was expecting on the price. But went on to say that when it warms up it idles rough.
I ask the guy what could be done to fix that? He said a new motor! I kinda laughed a little bit and said No seriously what needs to be done now? He said drain the oil and put some thicker oil? I told him I would come by tomorrow? Any thoughts Guys?
I ask the guy what could be done to fix that? He said a new motor! I kinda laughed a little bit and said No seriously what needs to be done now? He said drain the oil and put some thicker oil? I told him I would come by tomorrow? Any thoughts Guys?
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From: Henrico, VA
Wow this is amazing that you have been able to get it running again after the neglect of no oil changes.
Well He didn't replace the plugs so I would go and get yourself a new set of Motorcraft plugs and replace them soon. The thicker oil is a good idea too but I would start with the plugs first. I imagine that the truck never had them replaced before based on the fact that it didn't even get an oil change.
Well He didn't replace the plugs so I would go and get yourself a new set of Motorcraft plugs and replace them soon. The thicker oil is a good idea too but I would start with the plugs first. I imagine that the truck never had them replaced before based on the fact that it didn't even get an oil change.
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From: Hernando Ms.
Wow this is amazing that you have been able to get it running again after the neglect of no oil changes.
Well He didn't replace the plugs so I would go and get yourself a new set of Motorcraft plugs and replace them soon. The thicker oil is a good idea too but I would start with the plugs first. I imagine that the truck never had them replaced before based on the fact that it didn't even get an oil change.
Well He didn't replace the plugs so I would go and get yourself a new set of Motorcraft plugs and replace them soon. The thicker oil is a good idea too but I would start with the plugs first. I imagine that the truck never had them replaced before based on the fact that it didn't even get an oil change.
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From: Hernando Ms.
I have read where someone said that after performing a job like this on a vehicle with high miles the computer needs to be reset. I think they said that the negative battery cable should be taken off and put back on then drive it for fifteen miles or fifteen minutes then remove it and put it back on? Can the computer on these trucks adjust to the high mileage and worn parts, then after he installed the new parts think they are still worn and try to operate the same.....maybe its over compensating or I'm over thinking it?
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Jerseyville,IL
Get some throttle body cleaner and some MAF cleaner and clean the heck out of both. If the oil wasn't changed, I wonder if the airfilter ever was either. My uncles truck idled rough and would die at stoplights. We did this and the idle picked up to normal and it sits there and idles like a sewing machine. I'd also do the plugs too.
