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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #1  
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V-10 towing question

Need some input from all the veteran V-10 drivers. I have a 2000 V-10, 2V. and tow a 12,5K fifth wheel. When I hit those long 6% and 7 % grades at about 10,000 feet, my rpms start dropping to near 2,000 in 2nd gear. When I drop it down to first they climb to about 4,500. The question is, "Do I back off in first to let them drop to around 4,000 or do I stay at about 4,500 rpms? these grades are generally 1-2 miles long
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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First thing to do is not to let your RPMs get down to 2K. It's all about maintaining momentum as early as you can. At the bottom of the hill put your foot into it and get those RPMs in the V10 powerband 4000+. These engines are built to rev. Took my wife awhile to get used to it. She was certain the thing was going to blow up.

Not sure what gears you're running but if you are pulling those kind of grades you should be at least 4:30s or even lower.

I recently switched from 3:73s to 4:30s and there is a major difference in the towing performance (10K lb 5th wheel).

S
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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Just hold it foot to the floor and let it do its thing, assuming its an automatic.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 09:06 PM
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Both hands on the wheel and both feet on the floor.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 09:29 PM
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Thanks guys. That's what I thought, but I want to make sure I wasn't doing sometime harmful.
I have 4.30 gears and sometimes you hit those hairpin curves (15-20 mph curves) at the bottom of a 7% grade and momentum goes out the door.
I don't mind climbing at 30 mph I just wanted to know if holding over 4000 rpms for the length of a 2 miles grade was doing any harm. It didn't seem to bother it, but most of the time I can get 3800 to 4000 in 2nd gear and not even feel like we're working.
I just happened to hit a pass that didn't allow for a running start.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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I just wanted to know if holding over 4000 rpms for the length of a 2 miles grade was doing any harm.
Your ok there. If you plan to keep the truck for a while and do a lot of towing you may benefit from an even steeper gearset.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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Mash it, they run high
 
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 02:46 PM
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Are you running stock sized tires or are they bigger than stock?

One thing I'd like to say is, make sure you have changed the fuel filter, cleaned the MAF and that your catalytic converter is nice and clear.

However, at 10K feet, you might be ... dare I say it? Running out of breath
 
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 10:25 PM
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i got a five star tunning on my v10 from mike at five star and put it in tow it help alot and its cheaper then gears maybe not as good as gears but a quater the price. an intake and cat back is a good idea to. it kept my rpms at a steady pace instead of shiftin down and then revin out and then back down,
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Krewat
Are you running stock sized tires or are they bigger than stock?

One thing I'd like to say is, make sure you have changed the fuel filter, cleaned the MAF and that your catalytic converter is nice and clear.

However, at 10K feet, you might be ... dare I say it? Running out of breath
OP,

Not to hijack your thread but Krewat brought something up I have been thinking about.

I have a 4x2 with 4.30 rear as well and tow a 33' 8K TT. I have the 5star tune as well. Mike tuned it for my after market tires. Before I bought the trailer I was not thinking to much of gear ratio and wanted the truck to seat better so I went with 285/70-17 with the stock steel rims.

Looks mean as hell but I think I may be losing some. Not a real big deal now but in the very near future I will be towing allot! Would it be better that I go back to stock tires (really hate the look) or could I keep the larger tires and go with deeper gears? I plan on keeping this truck for a very very long time.

What would be best for life span regardless of look?

Thanks -
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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Gears or tires, either way, it's all the same. Smaller diameter tires=more gearing. More gearing = well, more gearing.

In terms of longevity, it's a wash until you get into the rear gears themselves. A bigger tire of course puts more strain into the axle itself. And when I say "axle" I mean the actual axle itself, not the entire rear-end. However, I don't think that's really a big concern, the Sterling is a pretty stout unit. And if you have a DRW, it's a Dana 80, which is also not going to care one whit about it.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 05:52 PM
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One thing to keep in mind - I'm not sure if the PCM will lock the torque converter in first gear on the 4R100. If it doesn't, your trans temps will climb dramatically. If you don't have a "real" tranny temp gage, you should get one.

Winding to 4500 should not hurt the engine as long as all temps stay in line... But I still let off and let her back down to 4K. No logical reason to do so, but hearing her sing at 4500 or higher just isn't as pleasant to my ears.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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Yes, it does lock up in first.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 12:08 PM
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Got 4:30's in my '09. Havn't met a hill it can't conquer yet, pulling a 40' 12,000# 5'er!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bill11012
Just hold it foot to the floor and let it do its thing, assuming its an automatic.
I couldnt agree more! it takes time to learn how your truck and trailer react to each other and the grade your about to pull. im going about 75-80 with my tailer at the bottom of a grade, mash on the gas, and let her Rip! the truck loves it and pulls like a bat out of hell! and YES it does sound like its gonna blow, but its made to do this!
 
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