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You did check the voltage while the points were closed, right? If the points are open, you'll always have 12V at the coil because there isn't any current flowing in the circuit, and you won't have any I X R drop across the resistor wire.
I am debugging my electrical gremlins and found that I burned up a new coil that required an external resistor. I checked the voltage at the coil and indeed have 12.3 Volts. The odd thing is that it runs through the resistor wire and I've checked for shorts and other connections and everything is wired correctly.
The resistor wire only measures 2 ohm, so it doesn't seem to have too much resistance. It is the original wire so perhaps it's changed over time??
What voltage should I be getting at the coil?
Should I just run a coil with internal resistor and remove the resistor wire?
I was told that you should get 12V at the '+' side of the coil and 11 V at the distributor side, or '-' side, but I have never heard this before.
As original, fits all 1960/72 Passenger Cars, Trucks, Bronco's & Econolines.
I hadn't checked the gap in a while and when I did, the gap in the points was way too large, so it wasn't closing fully, hence I think the reason it was showing 12V all the time. I reduced the clearance and am now getting 9.7 V on the + side. I am going to leave in the ballast resistor. Thanks to everyone who helped.