UPDATE....

Forget the last post, while changing the last two plugs on the passenger side I found the test port the rear a/c lines was hiding it.

Pressure with the key on was 35 p.s.i.
Pressure with the engine running was 30 p.s.i.

Those numbers look good I thought, so what is next? Should I look into a asd relay, or is there a different direction to go in?

On a side note, if I buy a scanner from like autozone one of the nice ones will it be able to tell me if a cylinder is misfiring so I can track down a bad coil pack or will it only tell me something if the engine throws the light?

 

UPDATE:

I have changed all the sparkplugs, and new air filter, I checked fuel pressure like stated earlier. I think I found one injector connector that was loose, but I am not sure if I did that trying to get the plugs out or it was loose. Took it for a drive lasting about 2 hrs total, drove great. Did die once about 20 mins into drive, didn't die anymore. Didn't feel any studdering or missing until the last 15 min. It wasn't as bad of a miss as before but it still was there. Any suggestions?

 

They are a PITA but I suggest that you check all of the electrical connections to the coils and the injectors again.

 

Naturally the next step is replacing a possible failing COP.

 

Will a bad COP cause the engine light or will I have to play guessing games?

 

It will turn on the CEL if the skip is bad enough. Sometime if you beat on the truck, it will force the CEL to come on sooner.

 

Thanks Alloro,

I ordered a set of coils off ebay, so I am ready to do battle when they start to go out.
I think I am going to buy one of those scanners that way I can look at how the O2 sensors are doing and other stuff too.

 

If you are going to buy a scanner I suggest that you check some pawn shops for the Snap On units that the shops use as well as the Ford units as they will enable you to check all or nearly all of the systems on your trucks and cars. If you are an active firefighter you might check with the techs that service your companies vehicles for tips on the scanners that will do the job best for you. The scanners that the parts stores sell will only give the most basic info.

 

Yes, that's true for most of the ones bought there. If you want to see live data and stored freeze frame data then like Moto Mel says, you need to bump up the quality a notch or two.

I use the Autoxray 6000 and it serves me well. The fact that it comes with all the cables you need (except the Chrysler enhanced one) and it also comes with a USB cable to connect to the internet for updates is a big bonus.
AutoXray 6000 Diagnostic Scan Tool OBD I and OBD II AX6000 - eToolDirect

 

UPDATE:

Checked all connections for tight fit. Just took the truck for it's first road trip. It has not died on me in over two weeks, however it still is studdering on occation. I noticed that at 75 with the cruise sit it was smooth as silk, but if you had to hit the brakes to slow do a little and then start accelerating again, it would studder then. Seems to happen alot in the 45 to 65 range. I ordered a new set of coils, I dont know if I should just go ahead and replace them all or is there a way to test them?

Also on a side note I am averaging 11 miles to the gallon hand calculated. Is that about right for around town or should I look into replacing the O2 sensors or something?

Thanks

 

Are you sure you don't have "Torque Converter Shudder"?

 

Is there any way to tell which one it is. All the times I have noticed the studdering it only happens when you are acclerating no matter what speed, when idleing the truck runs smooth. I have changed all the fluids in rear and front axle, and the transfercase. I have the stuff to drain the tranny and replace the tranny filter, just have not gotten to it yet. Would dirty tranny fluid cause this? And if the fluid doesn't help, do I have to replace the torque converter?

 

My experience with T/C shudder is that it will occur randomly and it has never lasted more than a couple of seconds at most. It is an irritating thing to have happen and causes a lot of worry. I replaced mine with a reman converter and have not had a problem since. I never experienced a really harsh shudder in my trans and it was not east to duplicate so you may have to have it checked by a trans expert. Here's the diagnostic info from my manual, I will see if I can find more info on it. Hope it helps.

__________________________________________________ ________________________

Torque Converter Clutch Operation Concern: Cycling/Shudder/Chatter Possible Component Reference/Action
242 — ELECTRICAL ROUTINE
Powertrain Control System
Electrical Inputs/Outputs, Vehicle Harnesses, PCM, TCC Solenoid, Digital (TR) Sensor, BPP Switch, PCM
Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual ( OBDII , OBDII-Diesel ) for diagnosis. Carry out Torque Converter Engagement Test. Carry out Pinpoint Tests C and D in this section using Transmission Tester, Cable and Overlay and TRS-E Cable. Clear codes, road test and rerun On-Board Diagnostics.

Speed Control Equipped Vehicles NOTE: Refer to Routine No. 212 before you proceed to No. 342.
342 — HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE
Fluid Condition Inspect fluid condition. If burnt or contaminated drain fluid from the transmission assembly and converter assembly. Check control attaching bolts for proper torque. Tighten as required. Record and erase On-Board Diagnostics codes. Bring vehicle to normal operating temperature. Carry out Transmission Drive Cycle in this section. Carry out On-Board Diagnostics. If condition still exists, continue diagnosis.

Main Controls
Bolts not tightened to specification
Tighten bolts to specification.

Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid — failure to operate in a normal manner
Refer to Electrical Routine No. 242.

Gaskets — damaged
Inspect for damage and install a new gasket.

Pump Assembly
Bolts not tightened to specification
Tighten bolts to specification.

Cross Leaks
Inspect for porosity/leaks, valve damage, install a new pump as required.

Gaskets — damaged
Inspect for damage and install a new gasket.

Converter Clutch Regulator Valve — damaged
Inspect for damage. Install new as required.

Stator Support
Teflon® Seal on Nose of Stator — damaged, cut, leaking
Inspect for damage. Install new as required.

Torque Converter Assembly
End Play (excessive) — internal leakage
Inspect the torque converter for damage. For additional information, refer to Torque Converter in this section.

 

How much fuel is in the tank?

I have not been in mine, but is it possible the fuel pump pick-up is not installed correctly?

I know my truck does not like being under a 1/4 tank of gas. Braking followed by acceleration sloshes fuel away from the pick-up and the truck can die. Usually it just stalls hard for a second, then comes right back.

Seeing as how somebody just did the fuel pump, maybe that is where the issue lies.

 

It does this at all stages of fuel, right now it has 3/4 of a tank. I guess my next step will have to be changing the tranny fluid and see what happens.