Ford OEM rotors 251.85 Each and they have to be ordered.

Advance Autoparts sel the Warever brand for 79.95 and some other brand for 129.95


Really what's the difference? Both are big huge hunks of cast iron.

 

Both are chunks of iron. However, inside the word "iron" you will find there are many grades. Take exhaust systems for instance. You have 304 Stainless but also other grades.

 

Ok, but

Does anyone have statistical data to say you will shatter a cheaper rotor all over the road?

or it will warp severly after the 1st 10,000 miles?

Who makes the factory piece? as in Zimmermann makes Porsche rotors. Go to the dealer and it's 3X as much as going right to Zimmermann directly.

 

It may not shatter but the properties might be different. It might get hot and stay hot longer or it might be poorly machined. It is always much cheaper to buy direct because the guy makes the thing. If you buy it from say Ford, they buy it, get a cut of it, next guy takes a bite and so on. By the time you consider that they stock the thing on the shelf and what not, it does increase the price. Anyone knows that when you cut out the middleman, it can be cheaper.

For that kind of money, maybe a cryo rotor will be cheaper. For $166 I can get Powerslot Cryogenic rotors at Summit racing.

 

For that price at the dealer you can buy SSBC or other top brands, if your going to buy new rotors buy the best you can afford.

 

True. Getting going in the truck is optional. Stopping is mandatory.

 

Is that price for both sides or one? Any pasrt numbers? I am also having some front brake issues with a nasty sqweel and the rotors are some what chewed up. My pads are albut new, just checked. Sorry for the hijack OP..

 

Just one side.

Power Slot 126-65086CSL - Power Performance Power Slot Slotted Brake Rotors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Power Slot 126-65086CSR - Power Performance Power Slot Slotted Brake Rotors - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

I vote for SSBC cross drilled and slotted.

 

The rotors pictured do not work with my truck. I have the dreaded hub/rotor assembly. You know 50 pounds of whompin stompin cast iron that you have to repack the bearings and such.

 

Thanks!! How long do they last? I see you cann't cut those?

 

I would think that you can as long as you don't get carried away. I have had dimpled rotors and they were supposed to be cut-able. Give them a call. Mine have been on only 10K and in the rear.

 

Did you try looking at Parts guy Ed's pricing? I know when I ordered springs from him it was way lower than the local dealer pricing even with shipping.

 

Cutting rotors is a bad idea in my opinion. Removing material to straighten a rotor is quite a bit of material.
End result is less mass and will end up warping again even faster.

Drilling and slotting will not stop you any faster and I do have proof of this in my race car.

 

I saw a car show recently where they put in an upgraded 18 "brake. Ours are what, 14" ? Does anyone make a larger brake upgrade kit, and how much more would that help?