where to start
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Byhalia Ms
where to start
i read this post by woodheat and "some" of his symptons are similar.
i have a 85 f-150 dual tank 302 EFI truck.
after a strong storm, the next day i went to move it and all it would do is spin. took it to a friends and he popped in a spare relay and it fired. so i proceed to take it home. i stop for gas and upon leaving it had a hard time starting but came around.
me and the wife leave the station and go get dinner and after dinner the truck wouldnt fire, just spin. took it to a shop and the fella says its after the tank slector switch he stops getting power. after him not having time to work on it being he is a 1 man shop anmd other work was behind me i took it to a friends place. we are getting power to the tank pumps but they come and go at the same time, both of them.
also when we DO get the truck to fire its flooded. we now also have no fuel gauge and the last time we had it running it ran smooth like normal then sputterd out when we gave it gas a bit later in that particular running session.
my ques is, where should i start looking to find out whats causing intermittant tank pumps and what causes it to flood when we do get it running.
i have a 85 f-150 dual tank 302 EFI truck.
after a strong storm, the next day i went to move it and all it would do is spin. took it to a friends and he popped in a spare relay and it fired. so i proceed to take it home. i stop for gas and upon leaving it had a hard time starting but came around.
me and the wife leave the station and go get dinner and after dinner the truck wouldnt fire, just spin. took it to a shop and the fella says its after the tank slector switch he stops getting power. after him not having time to work on it being he is a 1 man shop anmd other work was behind me i took it to a friends place. we are getting power to the tank pumps but they come and go at the same time, both of them.
also when we DO get the truck to fire its flooded. we now also have no fuel gauge and the last time we had it running it ran smooth like normal then sputterd out when we gave it gas a bit later in that particular running session.
my ques is, where should i start looking to find out whats causing intermittant tank pumps and what causes it to flood when we do get it running.
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From: Virginia
The selector switch is where the power is directed to one pump or the other. So it would have to be the switch, or upstream from the switch is the enertia switch. You could check it, it has a pendulum that swings around and if you are in a accident, it swings up and trips the pumps off.
Also on your truck the computer controls the fuel pump relay. Another safety feature is if the computer does not get any signals from the ignition module on the distributor, it assumes the engine is not running and turns the fuel pump relay off. If you have a problem with your ignition module, it could cause the engine not to fire and also not to run the pumps. That could also explain why the engine is flooded, if the pumps are running(there is a priming routine when you first turn the key) but the plugs are not firing the fuel.
The common failure mode for these modules is when they are hot. They will sometimes work fine from a cold start and as long as air from the fan is running by them.
Also on your truck the computer controls the fuel pump relay. Another safety feature is if the computer does not get any signals from the ignition module on the distributor, it assumes the engine is not running and turns the fuel pump relay off. If you have a problem with your ignition module, it could cause the engine not to fire and also not to run the pumps. That could also explain why the engine is flooded, if the pumps are running(there is a priming routine when you first turn the key) but the plugs are not firing the fuel.
The common failure mode for these modules is when they are hot. They will sometimes work fine from a cold start and as long as air from the fan is running by them.
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Edit*just saw what franklin said. Seems very plausible but I'll leave this up as food for thought in case that doesn't work*edit
seems to me like you have a problem in the fuel delivery system.
I have a similar system to you and got rid of my secondary tank because
A. if I know there won't be any gas stations for a long distance I just put a tank full in the bed and add some when I get down.
B. The sender unit ALWAYS seems to malfunction at the worst time
C. 18 gallons or whatever it is is enough for me usually.
D. It's one less headache under there.
I would check when you turn the key to on (not start) see if the pump primes (you'll hear a whirring/buzzing noise). If you hear that try and start the truck. If you don't try any how. see what happens. I don't think your year can test the fuel pressure on the rail (stupid ford
) but there is a way to test the fuel pressure regulator. Forget how but someone here will know. Change your fuel filter if it has not been done in a while.
Either of your fuel pumps could be on the fritz see what happens with the test and then get back to us....
-Dimitri
seems to me like you have a problem in the fuel delivery system.
I have a similar system to you and got rid of my secondary tank because
A. if I know there won't be any gas stations for a long distance I just put a tank full in the bed and add some when I get down.
B. The sender unit ALWAYS seems to malfunction at the worst time
C. 18 gallons or whatever it is is enough for me usually.
D. It's one less headache under there.
I would check when you turn the key to on (not start) see if the pump primes (you'll hear a whirring/buzzing noise). If you hear that try and start the truck. If you don't try any how. see what happens. I don't think your year can test the fuel pressure on the rail (stupid ford
) but there is a way to test the fuel pressure regulator. Forget how but someone here will know. Change your fuel filter if it has not been done in a while.Either of your fuel pumps could be on the fritz see what happens with the test and then get back to us....
-Dimitri
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From: Byhalia Ms
im getting power before and aft the tank selector AND before and aft the inertia switch and all the way back to both tanks.
Franklin, the module you speak of is in the dizzy right? a friend mentioned replacing that. that may be the issue with my fireing and flooding as you speak of. i'll get a igmod this week and give that a swing.
any brand i should avoid? i get most of my stuff frm NAPA as i get a discount due to how much my work buys from them.
Franklin, the module you speak of is in the dizzy right? a friend mentioned replacing that. that may be the issue with my fireing and flooding as you speak of. i'll get a igmod this week and give that a swing.
any brand i should avoid? i get most of my stuff frm NAPA as i get a discount due to how much my work buys from them.
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From: Virginia
They usually bolt to the side of the distributor. Make sure to use the special heat grease that comes with the module.
And you might have to take a deep well 7mm socket(I think it was 7mm) and grind the OD of the socket down to fit the module screws. I would like to wring the neck of some of these engineers who design something that takes a "special tool" to take off.
And you might have to take a deep well 7mm socket(I think it was 7mm) and grind the OD of the socket down to fit the module screws. I would like to wring the neck of some of these engineers who design something that takes a "special tool" to take off.
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Freshman User
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From: Byhalia Ms
can the igmod be removed without yanking the dizzy or is it a must?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Acworth, GA
Yes, IIRC when I replaced mine (many years ago) I did not have to remove the distributor at all.
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From: Byhalia Ms
KOO! i'll knock that out this week.
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Freshman User
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From: Byhalia Ms
i bought a module and couldnt get apart to install it so i returned it and bought a diz. dropped it in and got the same thing, wont fire unless i put it to the mat for clear flood mode. im at a loss now with this truck, the only fix i can think of now is a can of gas and a match.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Colorado
I feel your pain Q J...
I'm having a lot of the same problems still. I get voltage to the connector at the coil but zilch from the coil when turning over. When the switch is in the run mode, do you get at least 90% of battery voltage at the coil connector?
Did your new distributor come with a new igmod? Mine didn't. I used the old one because all the tests indicated it was good.
Were you able to check the codes? My code reader gives me a continuous memory 31 code. It would be interesting if we both have the same code. Seems like we have virtually identical issues. Code 31 is the "PFE, EVP or EVR circuit below minimum voltage."
Is that cylinder thing next to the coil part of one of those circuits? A neighbor told me it is a condenser but what the heck would it be condensing coming out of the - terminal of the coil wiring harness?
If you get a chance, would you take a picture of where the inertia switch & computer is on your truck? I can't find either of them for testing and its driving me nuts!
I'm having a lot of the same problems still. I get voltage to the connector at the coil but zilch from the coil when turning over. When the switch is in the run mode, do you get at least 90% of battery voltage at the coil connector?
Did your new distributor come with a new igmod? Mine didn't. I used the old one because all the tests indicated it was good.
Were you able to check the codes? My code reader gives me a continuous memory 31 code. It would be interesting if we both have the same code. Seems like we have virtually identical issues. Code 31 is the "PFE, EVP or EVR circuit below minimum voltage."
Is that cylinder thing next to the coil part of one of those circuits? A neighbor told me it is a condenser but what the heck would it be condensing coming out of the - terminal of the coil wiring harness?
If you get a chance, would you take a picture of where the inertia switch & computer is on your truck? I can't find either of them for testing and its driving me nuts!
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Freshman User
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From: Byhalia Ms
mine came with an igmod, it was a drop in and go.............well that was the idea but not at this time. i'll have to check the voltage when i get the next chance.
how do ya check codes on these trucks? i havent done that yet. when i find out what they are i'll post up. dunno bout the cyl thing, i'll have to ask my son. he knows more about this truck than i do.
the inertia switch is on the firewall right where the carpet stops. you can litterly sit in hte drivers seat, lean towards the pas side a bit, look down and see it.
how do ya check codes on these trucks? i havent done that yet. when i find out what they are i'll post up. dunno bout the cyl thing, i'll have to ask my son. he knows more about this truck than i do.
the inertia switch is on the firewall right where the carpet stops. you can litterly sit in hte drivers seat, lean towards the pas side a bit, look down and see it.
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From: Virginia