most of the places that sells those quick change $39.95 kits like pep boys or auto zoo will tell you that you don't need to change the oil or orifice tube or reciever drier.
that is where the black death comes from.

the thing they will not tell you is, you can use the freeze 12 and do the same thing for the same price. i get freeze 12 for $6.35 a can

 

Changed over our dry kilns at our lumber yard with duracool,previously i spent on average $900.00 a year on repairs, with the duracool the repair guy has never been back in 6 years.
This is on 2 ton compressors.
Same with our cars, blowing colder, no problems for years.
Dura cool crosses the line on compatibility and no oil change is needed.
What most people don't realize is there is no magic to ac, I was sick of paying over and over for bad repairs and borrowed a book from my father in law from his college days in the 40s, learned enough to do my own repairs and build a system as well.
All these different names for coolants are for the most part propriatary and it is what they do that only counts.
By the way, if it's an old truck anyway, do you figure on still driving this 10 years from now IF you are allowed to?
83 AMC eagle with duracool and about the only thing that does still work is the AC.

 

I run Enviro-Safe in my truck and it works great. I tried to copy and paste a link to their web site but it wouldn't work. Just do a search for it you'll find it. It works real well and is not real costly. No license required to buy it either.

 

Well no license as long as you're not in WI lol

Full on freon ban. If it goes in your a/c system and you're in WI, you need a cert to buy it.

Unless you fill it with say propane... lol

 

there should be a tag that states how much freon needs to be put in. you can buy the cheap-o box stuff and it comes with the full kit and a gauge to say if its full. most systems take 3 pounds( 3 cans or 36 ounces)

 

ok,so iv noticed my system still has some pressure in it when i press the low or high valve i hear it.
but the clutch will not engage.
whats he easiest way,before trying to add freeze 12,to see if my compressor,clutch or possibly one of the sensors is causing the problem?
i test 12+ v's at the connector entering the compressor.if i jump a hot to that terminal should the compressor/clutch kick in no matter what?

i ask this,because i found an old unused can of r12 i had kicking around,and tried to put it in,and it wouldn't take it.darn.

 

i guess if im seeing voltage at the compressor plug though,this indicates my sensor/switches are working right?

 

On the dryer is a switch with two wires jump the two wires together.

That is the pressure switch.

Do not run the pump very long like that ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

oh ok.thanks Festus.
can they be seen in either of my engine bay pics here?>




and what does it mean if the clutch engages when i jump them? and what's it mean if it doesn't?

 

Yes, The lower image, round black thing with the silver label and the pressure switch hanging off the side ...

Jumping those two wires will ignore the pressure in the system and just turn on the pump (engages clutch) ... If the pressure is to high or to low it will not turn the pump on.

Running the pump for a second or two will tell you if it's works or not, if it don't you'll know it, they typically they rattle like a tin of gravel when they go bad.

Without gauges it is nearly impossible to charge an A/C and get it to work correctly ...

For a Maine truck that thing looks pretty clean, is it an import!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

cool.looking forward to trying it out.thanks.
yeah,but still in New England.i had to run down to Connecticut for this one.

 

I went south PA and mine isn't as clean, it was cheap though!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I JUST got my AC fixed on Monday. It worked when I got the truck, then after a winter was blowing semi-cool air and I dragged my feet for over a year but finally got it fixed. They said it only had about 1/4 charge of coolant but they couldn't find a leak anywhere, so it cost me $100 to have them recharge it...guess I'll have to see how it holds up, but it sure is nice having AC again!

My '94 originally had R-134a in it- you sure your '93 is R-12?

 

If you have voltage at your compressor plug the next thing to check is your compressor coil. If you ohm out the 2 pins you should get about 2.4 ohms resistance.

If that ohms out properly the next thing to check is your clutch gap. I don't remember that spec off the top of my head though. If it's too large of a gap you can pull the clutch plate off the front and there should be some shims behind it that you can pull out until you get the correct depth. You may need to get a "shim kit" from the parts house to get the right shims.

With 12v at your compressor clutch plug your problem will likely be in one of these 2 areas.

 

93 was the transition year for R-12 and 134-A
early buily 93 R-12, late build 134-A.
by 94 everything was awitched over to 134-A