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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #1  
Shooter00's Avatar
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From: Okie
Blowing soot...

Hey fellas -

Before I installed the new carb and intake, and after, my pickup blows out black soot when I start it up and at idle. Carb is set fine, nice smooth lope at idle, everything sounds like it should now. The soot seems to come mostly from the right (passenger) side pipe, they're dumped at the rear axle, so I get a big black spot on the driveway when I start it. I'm concerned because it comes out just one side, and because the problem has persisted after I replaced and adjusted the new carb.

Any solutions? Could it be the elec choke? It blows soot even when warm, so I'm not sure. Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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From: Ventura, CA
have you checked the plugs on the right side? Maybe somethings as simple as a fouled plug? Check the cheapest and easyist first.
Or you could have a bad plug wire.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 09:45 PM
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From: Okie
Replaced plugs, too. I'll get a new set of wires, that's one thing I haven't changed because they looked new enough.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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This may or may not help put did you gap the plugs or just put them in straight out of the box?

Reason I say this is my '57 WD45 Allis-Chalmers tractor kept wanting to foul plugs from being to rich by the looks of them. Well found out the plugs were gapped at .60 and they are suposed to be gapped at .30. No more fouling plugs b/c its getting a nice blue spark across the plug now and boy will she talk under load now. Also cranks ten times better. I always gap my plugs on everything now before installing.

Also wanted to add my truck soots a bit at first 5 minutes until it warms up and the choke comes off fully.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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From: Okie
Plugs are gapped to .45 or is it .045?? Any way, I gapped and insalled them before I put the new intake, carb and ignition, so maybe I need to regap. I'll go back through all of my instructions and see if there is a recommendation from Edelbrock or MSD.

Thanks for the reply, 79FordBlake. Maybe all I need to do is weld tips on the pipes so they're not dumped and aimed down at the driveway!

I've never tore into a top end, how could I tell if there was a problem in the valves?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:06 AM
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How about a compression test?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
How about a compression test?
I would have to agree.

A compression test would definitely help everything out a lot. It would explain what's going on inside your engine much better.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:25 AM
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From: Okie
I'll do it. What pressures should I be looking for on a mild 400? I've only run the guage one other time, about 12 years ago. I would imagine if they're all close to the same, everything is OK?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Shooter00
I would imagine if they're all close to the same, everything is OK?
You got it.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
You got it.
Only if they're all the same at a higher compression. You don't want your who vehicle compressing at 30 psi lol. I'm sure you'de never see it happening at only 30 psi, but each cylinder should be within 10% (give or take, of the highest compressable cylinder) of each other. If not, I would say something is a bit off somewhere.
 
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