1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

EGR valve

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Old 07-04-2010, 04:49 PM
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EGR valve

Any advice on getting the big nut loose. I have a 2000 Ranger with the 2.5L. I need to change the EGR valve, but having getting the 1" wrench to turn the nut. It's been soaking for the last hour with PB Blaster.
Thanks,
 
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Old 07-04-2010, 06:18 PM
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either use a longer wrench, a cheater bar, breaker bar, 2 open end box end wrenches linked together, hit the end of the wrench with a hammer in the direction u need and the blunt force may bust it loose, an impact gun, or maybe apply a little bit of heat,
 
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Old 07-04-2010, 06:57 PM
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I went back out there and tried it again. Found out that because the nut is at a weird angle, I was using the wrong size wrench. Turned out to be 1 1/16th not 1". The wire harness for the PCM, firewall seals and wiper motor get in the way. Valve is changed, CEL is out and the truck is happy again.
 
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Old 07-04-2010, 09:54 PM
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Glad to hear you got it out. Before trying to remove mine, I sprayed the fasteners w LiquidWrench penetrating lubricant, let the car sit a while, then drove it somewhere to do something. Then I repeated the procedure the next day, let the car cool a bit, then unscrewed the nut easy squeezy w a small crescent wrench. I had read some of the stories about the difficulties of removing the EGR valve, so that's why I did it that way. I did not want to damage the pricy EGR pipe.

PS: WD40 is not a penetrating lubricant & has scored poor on comparative tests.
 
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Old 07-05-2010, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by martin_csr
Glad to hear you got it out. Before trying to remove mine, I sprayed the fasteners w LiquidWrench penetrating lubricant, let the car sit a while, then drove it somewhere to do something. Then I repeated the procedure the next day, let the car cool a bit, then unscrewed the nut easy squeezy w a small crescent wrench. I had read some of the stories about the difficulties of removing the EGR valve, so that's why I did it that way. I did not want to damage the pricy EGR pipe.

PS: WD40 is not a penetrating lubricant & has scored poor on comparative tests.
Came to realize that because I wasn't getting on the nut square, I was using the wrong size wrench . After getting the right size wrench, it came right off.

Liquid Wrench is pretty good stuff. I like using either PB Blaster or Kroil. Ever since WD-40 has been "outlawed" at my place of employment, I tend to stay away from it. From what I understand, it doesn't like certain metals and the residue it leaves behind will start to corrode.
 
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Old 07-17-2010, 11:03 PM
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why even mess with it mine keeps going on and off and on and off. the hell with it
 
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Old 07-18-2010, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by turbochargedford
why even mess with it mine keeps going on and off and on and off. the hell with it
Because I don't like seeing the CEL all the time.
 
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:59 AM
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By any chance did you use a sealant on the big nut's threads. Or use a gasket there where the pipe fits into the EGR valve?

I'm asking because the shop manual says the pipe must be replaced on the 02 Escape 4-cyl if the EGR is removed... info I didn't see until afterwards. doh.
 
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by martin_csr
By any chance did you use a sealant on the big nut's threads. Or use a gasket there where the pipe fits into the EGR valve?

I'm asking because the shop manual says the pipe must be replaced on the 02 Escape 4-cyl if the EGR is removed... info I didn't see until afterwards. doh.
I used some anti-seize on the two bolts and the new gasket that came with the valve. I just slipped the valve onto the pipe and didn't replace that, nothing was mentioned about replacing the pipe in my cd.
 
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Old 07-19-2010, 08:01 PM
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Okay, thanks. It's one of those puzzling thinsg.... to me anyway.
The 2002 shop manual says to replace it on the Escape 4-cyl, but there is no mention of replacing the pipe on the V6.
I'll figure it out. Thanks again. JMK.
 
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