i just replaced my fuel filter and started it up to check for leaks well i found one and it was not the filter it was the single line that goes out of the back of the bracket that the filter is on im wondering how much that will be to replace that fuel line and the l joint that comes out

 

probably just needs to be tightened or snugged. If not PM me. I assume you mean the hard line from the filter to the ip which is the main supply. It was probably just barely hanging on and you broke whatever it had loose when you changed the filter.

 

If it isn't loose there is a rubber gromet that seals that line wich may need to be replaced.

 

Yep and you gotta crank a little on it...more than the rest.

 

The seals are available at most diesel shops....... 2 sizes for different location on the fuel lines.......3/8 ID for the line connection from lift pump at the filter header and 5/16 ID for the two ends on the filter header to IP fuel line. They are located under the cap nut so as to push the flared sealing point onto the fitting......... do not over tighten, just to sealing.

 

5/16" Vibra-Loc - McMaster-Carr Item 50385K83
3/8" Vibra-Loc - McMaster-Carr Item 50385K84

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

its not the hard line its the braided soft line that goes to the right from it it has a clip on it

 

Right as in Passenger side ... Or Right as in Drivers side ...??

Always direct as if setting in the drivers seat ... Standard Automotive procedure!

I'll assume you are talking right as if you were standing in front of the truck!

That would be a return line, It should be 3/16", that would be replaced with an Injector Installation Kit, It should go from the supply line fitting on the filter head to the first Injector on the right (US Passenger) side of the motor.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

yes that is exactly it!!! thank you and sorry im not a mechanic haha

 

No need to be sorry, learning is an experience, hopefully a pleasurable one.

If that line is leaking fuel it will leak air, if it leaks air, it will allow the fuel to siphon back to the tank while setting (ie overnight, at work, etc...), this causes the motor to start then die and it takes a lot of cranking to get started again... That is real hard on the starter!

Remember, never crank on the starter for more than 20 seconds, then allow 2 minutes to cool before trying again!

Air molecules are smaller than diesel molecules therefor air intrusion can and usually does happen without leaky fuel lines. If a fuel line is leaking, it's guaranteed to be allowing air into the system.

You can apply a hose clamp if it does not have one, It should, it should be a spring band type, however any clamp not over tightened will work just fine.

However, It would be my recommendation to install an Injector Installation Kit.

Many, Including me prefer to toss the o-rings that come in the kit and replace with Viton Return O-Rings - McMaster-Carr Item 9464K24, Viton is impervious to Diesel...

You can follow Starmilts Humorous Fuel Return Replacement Procedure, I like to cut the 6 short hoses in between the Injectors to 4-1/16", cut hose with a sharp razor blade and use Vaseline to lubricate the o-rings with.

This Fuel Filter Replacement Procedure will give you a proper method of bleeding the air from the system. Steps 13 through 15.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

No offince Festus and mall the other IDI gurus on here I've heard time in time again air intrution will let your fule drian back but it isn't exactly true. I've had all kinds of leaks most recently I messed up an injector line causind a big leak but I worked it over with sand paper and got it to a small leak untill I get a new line. I've had it sit over night with a broken return cap, caught the cowl gowing in, any was fired right up the next day. I had it sit for 4 months with a big leak from the fule heater and took 15 seconds to fire it up. My point is the what allows the fule to drain back is weak reed valves in the fule pump, but if the system is sealed, no air intrution, the fule trys to drain back casing a vacume in the filter head and return system and the fule can't drain, but if say a clamp is weak or an oring in a retun cap isn't sealling just right that vacume will suck air in and the fule will drain. Also why air intrution is so difficult to find the cause on some times because the fule lines, retun caps and such weren't designed to seal vacume. So even if every thing is sealed properly if the pumps allowing drain back it still may be able to pull air in to the fule system.

I do apoligise I'm kinda tired right now and I know this probly sounds a lot more dickish then I intended it to.

 

Take that silly clip thingy off and put a regular hose clamp on it,thats what I did

 

Good points but lets not confuse the new guy........ We got to keep him away from that stealership!!

 

You mean your not a mechanic,,YET...?? Stick on this forum with these guys and it wont take long!!!

 

From what I've heard if you use a regular hose clamp on hoses that small it wont seal right and may let air in but you guys know my theroy on that.