callmebobvilla, when you installed the swi-jack, did you cut the purple loop wire and install the resistor? I haven't received it yet but that's what it tells you to do on the website and I was just wondering if that worked out for you.

I forgot about the iPod touch. I read a review and a guy was able to connect his droid to the HU via bluetooth and stream music over it. I didn't realize it had that function when I bought it, bonus.

 

So, after all this time I finally found a steering wheel I can use! Cruise and Audio controls ONLY, no phone or fan and leather wrapped. So I plan on just swapping it with my current steering wheel (cruise only). Should arrive here on Wednesday.

TexasRebel, I read you writeup about removing the airbag and wheel but my question to others with a tilt wheel is how much more difficult was it than TexasRebel's writup with a non-tilt wheel. I can see how to remove the little tilt lever from the side but it is pretty tight in there. Any pics or suggestions would be great. I am assuming I need to remove the gauge surround panel as well (above the column).



Planning on starting to pull the wheel tonight!

Thanks

 

I did my install last weekend and it went really well.

That steering wheel is a nice find.

To remove the tilt lever I just gently squeezed and worked the rubber surround out from around the lever. Once it was out you will see one Torx bolt in there holding the lever on. Remove it and the lever comes right off.

No need to remove the gauge surround.

 

Bookpile,
Thanks for the info. So you didn't need to remove the upper surround, just the bottom kick panel, tilt lever, and the two steering column shrouds?

Coolio!

 

OK, I may be crazy but I would have sworn I already posted this morning and it looks like my last post is gone....

Anyway, finished up the swap and here are a couple of pics. Working on installing the PSC SWI-PS unit in my aftermarket headunit this evening.

Thanks To TexasRebel for the inspiration.



And the new wheel with controls:

 

OK, I did something wrong and I have NO clue what it is.

When I go to connect the batteries the horn goes off constantly. It's not the alarm which pulses the horn.

There is only one way to connect both the horn connector and the controls to the clock spring so I have no clue what is wrong.

Have to take it all apart

The horn presses in and out like normal so I have not idea what is "shorting" or making the connection to the horn.

I am sad

 

OK, got the horn working correctly. I undid everything, UGGG!, and checked the horn wire. The little metal clip that is attached to the back of the Air Bag was bent down, towards the steering wheel when attached and was shorting the horn. Put it all back together and everything worked fine.

FINALLY, got the PAC SWI-PS adapter installed (what a pain in the rear) and programmed (installed it behind the steering wheel kick panel with the wires going up to my Pioneer stereo. The controls work great! The pain part was the fact that I had to splice into the factory harness for the steering wheel control wire and its ground wire. Soldered all the connections in the truck (scarry). But got everything tucked back into place and working.

Whew!!!

 

Any chance you still have the audio switch? Also, what make/model did you get the wheel with switches out of?

 

Sorry it took so long to reply to this. I did install the resistor that the SWI manual said to install. Works great for me.

 

I can't wait to do this in my truck. I wish there was some way for me to turn on the redundant steering wheel controls on the factory stereo myself. Having to buy another stereo is a bummer. I doubt my local dealer will know how to change the settings in the stereo. I am on the look out for a donor steering wheel! Thanks to everyone for the great insight as to what is required to add these switches!
Clint

 

Did anyone figure out if the dealer can "turn on" the redundant steering wheel audio controls on a factory single cd/mp3/sirius stereo? I have a steering wheel from eBay inbound and am hoping I won't have to buy another stereo. I have an 08' F-250 XLT. I ran the DTC test that TR has posted and my factory stereo doesn't show any trouble codes do I'm sure the new steering wheel controls won't work until I get my current stereo reprogrammed or purchase a new one.

 

I know i maybe late joining the party, or maybe giving information that is alrady known, but I was reading this post and wanted to do the same with my 2008 F-250.
I bought a wheel and havested the wires, and then used the part number that TR did to replace the button with out the phone button. Then I talked to my dealership about enableing that redundent controls. They took the time to plug a laptop into it, but they were not able to turn on the function. The service manager called the radio vendor that they send the factory radio's out for repair, and was informed that to turn on the function the radio would need a different program. Two ways this could happen: send the radio out for 75 bucks to turn on the redundant control, or clone a truck that already has the controls. The manager thinks a truck will come in like mine 2008 to 2010 that he could copy the program, and dump it into mine.

I would like to give a big thank you to Texas Rebel for taking the time to document this procedure I didnt buy my truck new, and wasn't able to choose that option, but soon the only thing I would change about my truck will be corrected.

 

I am happy to say that my redundant controls are now working Beautifully. My local dealership made the program change to my factory signal CD radio. It cost $67 bucks and a half hour of my time.
I again would really like to thank Texas Rebel for documenting the procedure. I would also like to clear up any doubt as to the fact that in deed yes a competent dealership can indeed make the program change, and if they don't how ask them to send it out to where they have the factory radio's fixed to have it programed. I was told by the dealership for 75 bucks it could be done. However, the dealership researched how to make the change themselves. They didn't tell me what they did, just that they found a way to do it, and a half hour later it was done and my truck was out front, and washed to boot. I have a feeling that it took longer to wash it than to do the program change, but I have no problem paying that to have my truck washed.

 

This is my solution to adding Remote Keyless Entry to an XL that came without it...

However, I've found it very difficult to find the exact configuration I want... If anyone knows the VIN of a pickup with:

Reg Cab
5.4L
Manual Transmission
Power Locks & Windows
Heated/Power Towing Mirrors (manual fold & telescope)
Manual A/C
Cruise Control
Steering Wheel Audio Controls
Fog lights
Cab Clearance/ID Lights

I would be eternally grateful!

 

Hate to dig up an old post. But it is a good one. Quick question. Is a donor wheel necessary for this installation? OR could one simply purchase part #7C3Z9C888AA (right audio control buttons) and go from there? My 2008 F250 XLT already has cruise control, but no audio controls?

OR

Is the reason for getting a donor wheel to have a harness that has both cruise control and audio together?

Thanks for any clarification