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ODB1 fault code 95- HELP please!!

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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 11:58 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by subford
If you have spark and no power I would check the TPS.
The coil can give loss of power also but you would still have fuel pressure.

You need to know for sure if you have spark.
I think you may still have ground issues.
Well Bill this is whats happening. The truck will start and idle and as soon as i give it gas in neutral it will slightly stumble and then rev up - ill then let it idle maybe after a minute it will die. It wll start up but will not rev and then just die. then it wont start at all ( no spark at this time). ill wait an hour go out and it will do the same exact thing. Its done this 3 times in a row. I did change the coil ,didnot help it at all. i checked all the wires and there is no exposed wire anywhere. I checked especially around the spout connector as i know it can cause a problem if shorting. Wires under the eec and fuel pump relay look good What next??

larry
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 12:12 PM
  #47  
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From: Easton,Ks
When it has no spark did you ever umplug the ECU computer and see if spark returns?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by subford
When it has no spark did you ever umplug the ECU computer and see if spark returns?

Bill wheres the plug at?? is it at the ecm or can i unplug the plug up by the fuel rail

larry
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #49  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by larrylass
Bill wheres the plug at?? is it at the ecm

larry
It is at the safety wall (firewall).



Originally Posted by larrylass
or can i unplug the plug up by the fuel rail
No not there.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 03:41 PM
  #50  
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Bill - the spark returns without unplugging the ecm. I just went out there and after it sat for an hour it started right up , idled for a minute and died, restarted it tried to rev the motor and it died, now no spark???? Do you have any tips on unplugging the ecm- its a real PITA to get apart. I was talking with a local mechanic here and he mentioned the ignition switch. Could this be a possibility? and if so where is it located on my truck ???

Thanks again Bill

Larry
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #51  
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From: Easton,Ks
Just wiggle the plug as you back out the 10mm socket size bolt.
You have to do this when you have no spark.
Did we not say the Ignition switch was the possible problem in a early post?
Check the power at the coil (red wire with a green stripe), if you do not have power there then it may be the Ignition switch. But if you have power there and no spark then no the Ignition switch would not be the problem.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 06:56 PM
  #52  
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ok Bill will do. ill give a shot in the AM its getting dark here now. Ill post up my results in the AM

Thanks again

larry
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 07:00 PM
  #53  
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Bill - Can you please post up some schematics of the ignition switch and how to repair it. I would really apprieciate it. my manuals are 1 1/2 hours away. next time ill keep them in the truck .

Thanks again bud

larry
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 08:06 PM
  #54  
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From: Easton,Ks
Sure:








/
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 04:43 PM
  #55  
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Alright its fixed i hope!!! i finally broke down and took it to a repair shop and here was the problem: the front intank fuel pump wasnt working at all. he even showed me by putting 12v to it and the fuel pump didnt run at all. There was also a loose wire on the neg side of the fender mounted solonoid. Now heres what im pissed about; i purposely bought BOSCH in tank fuel pumps so this kind of Sh-- wouldnt happen!! this fuel pump had only 200 miles on it. I tell you- the kind of junk that is being sold at these autoparts stores being made by foreigners is just pissing me off. I understand its the american Corporations trying to save money by outsourcing to foreign countrys but still come on is there anything made in the good ol USA anymore?? Sorry for the rant but when you spend your hard earned dollars on new parts THEY SHOULD WORK period!!!

Anyhow im still confused on why the back tank intank pump didnt work during all this? Maybe someone will chime in here on why. its working now but i would still like to know WHY? and hear your opinions
Thanks all for your help

BigLar

white shirt,black shoes and pabst blue ribbon beer--Hell yea
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 07:05 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
Was that neg wire a black wire with a green stripe?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 08:39 PM
  #57  
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Bill i dont know but it was on the neg side of the starter solonoid. The black wire w/ green stripe was attached securely to the neg post of the battery cable. I know thats the ECM ground. i just dont understand why if the front tank intank pump went the back intank pump wouldnt work. could it be possible when the front intank pump went south that it affected the ground for the back intank pump,seeing how they have a common ground???
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 08:43 PM
  #58  
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also Bill they had a noid light on the injectors and a spark tester and they had both all the time just no fuel pressure from either intank pump. They finally placed a hose from the hi pressure pump in some gas and the motor started right up. When they changed the front intank pump suddenly both intank pumps worked?? im still baffled on this one

Larry
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 06:18 AM
  #59  
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From: Easton,Ks
The only wire on the "neg side of the starter solonoid" should be the large wire going to the starter.

No there is no way the front pump can cause an effect on the rear pump. All three pumps share the same ground but changing one pump will effect the ground point. It does sound like you may still have a ground problem somewhere.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #60  
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Bill - had some problems today and would like you to help me out again with your diagnosis please. heres what happened: i had to reroute the fuel lines and fuel filter from the hipressure pump to the fuel rail. They were just too close to the headers. Now this is all i did and AGAIN when i went to start the truck NO FUEL PRESSURE and the hipressure pump isnt working. I checked all the connections at the hipressure pump and they were good but had no power to no avail and decided to start again from step 1. I checked the yellow wire to the fuel relay and had power and power to the brown wire going out of the fuel relay which had power. i did the EEC test jumping the port 2 and port 6 and the hipressure pump wouldnt come on. i had power at the brown wire coming into the enertia switch but NO power going out,HMMMM so i went and reread this 4 pages of posts and you had mentioned the fuseable links coming off the fender mounted starter solonoid. as soon as i started to move and pull on the fusible links that are connected to the positive side of the starter solonoid, WAAHALAA i now have power to the hipressure fuel pump and fuel pressure. heres my dilemia; All the fusible links seemed solid with no indications of blowing????. so i took off all the connections to the positive side of the starter solonoid and cleaned the connections with a wire brush and reattached them. Bill what fuseable link "wire colors" at the positive side of the starter solonoid would effect the power to the hispeed fuel pump???

Thanks again

Larry
 
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