I have a '68 F-250 that has the big old "Dog-ear" mirrors. I clipped a tree with the passengers side mirror a while back and of course it pushed a major dent into the door. I think part of the problem was that it had a previous dent that had been repaired (probably the same thing happened) and it had the "oilcan" effect. I am sure I can pop the dent back out and repair it, but I will still get the oilcan effect. Is there any way to fix this or am I gonna just have to find a new door? I have very little body experiance, so if it is too complicated that may be my only alternative. Looking forward to your answers. Thanks all.

Chad Burns
1968 F-250 390 2v auto
Aurora, CO.

 

I have never had a reason to try this…yet, but the prescribed method (posted by cid, in another thread) seems to be in using a torch to heat the sheet metal and quickly cooling it with water, repeated until the desired affect is achieved. Be careful with the hot steam and good luck with your project.

 

Heat shrinking (HS) requires lots of practice. Preferably before you start working on your truck. Sheet metal is elastic and will stretch. It needs to because thats what protects you in an accident. The sheet metal absorbes the energy and is dispersed to other parts of the vehicle eg frame. Sheet metal goes though changes that make it difficult to repair when damaged. The steel has a certain amount of carbon in it that gives it the elastic qualities. Lots of carbon makes strong steel less makes weaker steel. You dont want to much carbon because the vehicle will bounce off a hit object. Thats bad. Why is this important? Because carbon reacts to heat. During an accident heat is generated and it causes the steel to harden. This makes it more difficult to repair. Also when you go to HS you will be hardening the metal too. The more heat you apply the harder it gets. The harder it gets the more brittle it becomes. Thats one problem with HS. The next is timing and its everything. You need to be on the metal when it turns red and off as soon as it turns red. Plus, the spot can only have a diameter of 1/4". If you spend too long on the metal a hole will develop and/or you generate too much heat and warp the panel. This is not good when you are working on a large open panel such as a hood, trunk or door. There are other ways though to strengthen the stretched metal without heat. One way is to move the metal so there is more in the stretched area. Lets use a method that may not need a follow up with body filler, paint etc.. You need a hammer and block of wood (2x4). Your going to hit the edge of the door (wood on edge to protect edge) all around the perimeter of the stretched area. This will move the metal into the stretched area. This will work if the stretched area is approx. 1/8 deep ie, (hold a straight edge over the damaged area and measure). You need to know that metal is very responsive to a hammer. As a general rule never use your arm to repair sheet metal only use wrist action. Hit a few spots then push on the sheet metal. As you progress you should need more pressure to push on the stretched area OR the stretched area will stay down rather than spring up.