So i bought a edelbrock 2105 performer series Intake manifold for my 352 FE. This will be my first time installing one so does anyone have some advice for a smooth install?

 

Where to start...

Tools needed: TQ wrench, gasket scraper, roll of paper towels, hoist (cherry picker), carb pad engine lift plate, pushrod holder, roll of masking tape, 15/16" socket, 1/2"D ratchet. 5/8" or 13/16" spark plug socket.

Start by removing all the accessories off of the intake and distributor cap w/ wires. Mark all the connections with tape and # them. Remove the valve covers and spark plugs. Rotate the engine until #1 piston is TDC and the I/E valve rockers are not pushing the valves. Also look at the harmonic balancer to verify you are in the correct position. Mark the distributor rotor position on the housing, you will use this as a baseline timing when reinstalling. Remove the distributor from the engine. Once set start backing off the rocker shaft mount bolts 1/4 turn at a time until all the rockers are loose. Otherwise you could bend the rockers shaft/break a mount tower. Repeat process on the other head. Remove the rocker shaft assemblies and label them which side they came from. Pull each pushrod out and install it in the pushrod holder, in order. Install engine lift plate on intake and apply a little pressure on cherry picker. Use a pry bar to gently loosen intake from the seals if it is still stuck in place. Move intake out of the engine bay. Stuff the intake ports with paper towels or rages and place them across lifter valley to catch loosen material. Use gasket scrapper (razor) to remove old gasket material. Clean out all of the debris and remove towels/rags. Position gaskets and hold in place with a dab of RTV. Use 1/4" bead of RTV to make the front and rear seal verse the ones supplied unless they actually are held in place. Typically they squish out of position when you torque the intake.

Now you can reverse the order to reinstall the intake. TQ everything to spec's. Once it is all installed double check timing before putting the valve covers on and spark plugs in.

Another word of advice is to use Aviation gasket maker on the intake bolts. It helps to keep them in and seals the threads in water jackets/ports. Also google the intake install for a 390. You should see a few articles written on the subject.

 

Excuse me for asking a secondary question on your thread but instead of useing those front and rear gaskets that never stay in place can you used a bead of RTV silicone only....It works on chevy motors.

 

It depends some have a lip seal that holds onto the edges of the lifter valley. But if they are the cork ones then you are correct that ditching them in favor of a bead of RTV is preferred.

 

I highly recommend before you take it off you clean around the maifold very well and scrap off all the dirt and get it off the best you can, then blow it off with compressed air. I didn't do that when i took mine off and i got a little bit of dust in it. It wasn't much and i cleaned it out with a damp rag, but i still felt stupid about it. Also, be carefull when you diconnect that hose between the water pump and the manifold. Its about 2 inches long, but i broke the little bypass tube on the water pump side and luckly someone here pointed me to denis carpenter which had one. It was a $13 + shipping mistake. I recommend just cutting the hose off, then replacing it when you install it again.

And make sure you put the bypass tube (hose between manifold and pump) on BEFORE you bolt on the manifold, other wise you will have to take it off and do it all over again.

That main thing is just clean it really well. You are very much more than likely going to have to replace the gasket, so i recommend getting one before hand to save time and frustration.

also make sure you drain the radiator before hand, you dont want to make a mess all over the engine.

this was on a 292 y block by the way.

 

Thought you just forgot.

 

That is not a tool but rather a consumable item. I should have listed the least experienced friend who likes to bench wrench...