I am new to this forum on Ford trucks. It is a great place to talk about shoptalk on FORD TRUCKS.
My question does any one know the best way to remove a windshield from a 1986 Ford F250 without chipping or breaking the glass? In addition, how do you get the gasket or sealant material between the windshield and the body cut away to do this? Furthermore, before reinstalling the glass, what rubber or sealant product goes between the glass and body? I have had bad luck removing a windshield in the past. It was an inexpensive screw up to replace that windshield. I can remove the glass if there is a right way to do it. Any one got any suggestions or comments that has been down this road.
Thanks, Old Diver

 

You'd be hard-pressed to find even a veteran windshield installer who would even try to do this (because the chance of breaking the glass is SOOOO high), but the only way you MIGHT be able to do it is to get some piano wire, silicone lube, a couple of good wood handles, and a STRONG trustworthy assistant. You have to punch the wire thru the sealant that holds the windshield on and then wrap it around the handles so you can saw the wire all the way around the windshield, using the silicone to lubricate it. You'll probably break the glass anyway, so I'd say don't even waste the time. Just break it quickly and move on. The sealant is a polyurethane caulk, available from a windshield shop for ~$10/tube, but you need a special caulk gun to apply it because it's so thick. It's best to just pay the shop to install it, but that's free if you buy a new windshield.

Why do you want to remove a good windshield anyway?

 

Thanks for the input Steve83.

I do need to remove my 1986 Ford F250 windshield because water is coming through the backing of the windshield and leaking on to the floor. I honestly do not want to break the glass if possible. Buying a replacement is not something I can afford to do right now. I think your idea might work Steve83, but is there other options that might work?

Do you know of any product that could be sprayed around the windshield inside and out that could break down the sealant's tackiness or eat up the sealant to make it easier to push or lift the windshield up and off the truck. I do not want to take it to the glass shop if this is something I can do myself to save a buck.

Is there anybody else out there that can help with this windshield dilemma?

Thank Old Diver

 

Has that windshield been replaced already?

If it has, try to track down the people who installed it.

There should be a lifetime warranty on water leaks.

If it is original, you will probably have to remove the windshield Trim to get at the spot to patch.
Then the urethane will be needed.

 

A lot of Ford trucks leak around the windshield.
I wouldn't/didn't take it out to fix it. Just take off the chrome on the outside and take the metal trim piece that pops out on the inside. Use clear silicone for a couple weeks(do it the lazy way) until it stops.

 

I agree with pbrstreetg - just pull the trim from around the windshield inside & out, and add sealant. I'd use regular silicone caulk or polyurethane caulk AFTER a trip to the car wash to blast out the accumulated crud. Having someone sitting inside would be a good way to spot the leak so you know where to add it.

 

I am determined to fix the leaky windshield now or never because real soon I am not going to have any where to put my feet.

I removed the windshield hardware so I could see what needed done. I then sprayed a 50/50 mixture of concentrated degreaser and diesel fuel on the neoprene and silicone sealant inside and out. In a very short time, this mixture was a killer on the neoprene. I was able to take a long blade utility knife and curve along the outside of windshield with hardly any effort. Inside the cab was able to get the knife blade in between the windshield and body of truck. Later should be able to push just enough on the glass to see if it is ready to lift off. I will be keeping my fingers crossed until then.




Am I doing this right???

 

Last time I did it it was in a Chebby, but, we just cut the glue with a utility knife(very carefully) and then very carefully lifted it out.. We were swapping the cabs on the truck, and the new one had bullet holes in the windsield.....
Evan

 

I've used the piano wire method, the key is to do it on a hot sunny day, take your time and it's a good idea to have a propper heat gun as the corners are sometimes tricky. Good luck.

 

I've been installing auto glass for close to 15 years.... If your windshield has any chips, stars, or breaks of any kind, just plan on breaking it. These flaws will provide a stress point and the glass will break from or through this point. That being said, you need to cut the glue around the perimeter and gently lift it out. I've never heard of using a petroleum based liquid to dissolve the adhesive but I guess that would work. It sure will make a mess though. I've used music wire and vise grips to cut the adhesive and it works pretty well. I suspect that your windshield is laying on a butyl adhesive and it is pretty easy to cut. When you get it out, be sure and clean the pinchweld and the windshield of all the old sealant. Go to a glass shop and get some high viscosity urethane windshield adhesive. Be sure and get the primers that are required for the brand of adhesive that you get from them. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Be sure you install the setting blocks on the lower edge of the w/s. Apply the adhesive as instructed and then install the w/s. It has been my observation that all the 80-86 pickups will leak around the w/s unless installed with urethane. Butyl is not a good adhesive. Ford went to urethane in 87 and I'm sure it was because of leaks and also to increase cab strength.

 

Thanks guys

I like your idea 66 Ranger. Did you mean I might get to keep my winshield after all.

From what I have read so far, it seems that using wire to cut the sealant is the best way. What kind and how long does the wire need to be?
Do you need an assistant on the inside of the truck to guide the wire around or can I do this myself on the outside? Are you using the vice grips to pull the wire around the windshield and if so what are you using to keep the wire from pulling through?
I used the 50/50 mixture to soften the rubber sealant partly because its wintertime up here in the northeast, and secondly I was hoping that it would turn to a liquid to save me the step of having to cut the adhesive out while I still had most of my toes left. You are probably right about the windshield laying on a butyl adhesive, but is it really that easy to get out?
What is the pinch weld?
This high viscosity urethane windshield adhesive you mentioned how do you apply that stuff on the truck. In addition, what are the primers that are required for the brand of adhesive??? I am almost there.
Boy, two more questions and I am out here. What are the setting blocks and what does w/s mean?
I would appreciate a responds back 66 ranger. Just maybe I might be able to get this windshield out after all. I have felt like I been driving inside a fish tank most of the time.

 

So, after reading all the posts to this thread, I decided to give the company that the previous owner used to install the windshield a call and complain about my leaks. After explaining the situation, they are going to fix it for me tomorrow. They said that it should not leak and when I explained the urethane globbed all over the inside of the window, they were shocked and embarrassed. Thanks for this thread Old Driver!

To answer the questions you asked:
The pinch weld is the material (sheet metal) seam between the roof and the window frame This is what the window will "sit" upon when adhered.

The blocks referred to are small blocks that the glass will "sit" upon on the lower edge (and possibly outer edges) to fit into the opening level and with the proper spacing all the way around. Similiar to shims installed temporarily to line everything up.

As for applying the urethane, when I did my previous windshield, it was applied using a standard caulking gun using caulk gun tubes. I assume this would still be the case, though you may find it in large tubes similar to toothpaste types as well.

W/S is the abbreviation for WindShield.

Hope that helps. Good luck with it all. It can get tricky at times.
Follow all the advice above and with patience, you should be fine. Remember: GO SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY.

 

To answer your questions that Dekuma may have missed:
Pinchweld- the surface under the windshield (w/s) to which you apply adhesive. When you get the old adhesive cleaned off, you will see spot welds all around the opening. This is where the various pieces of sheet metal are welded together in assembling your pickup.
Setting blocks- these are a block of plastic or rubber placed at the bottom of the w/s to keep it from sliding down and contacting the rivets that hold the trim clips accross the bottom of the w/s. they are usually about 6-8 in from each end, not far from the drain hole. If the w/s sits on the rivets, it will break. Keep that in mind while you cut it out, too. The correct setting blocks on these pickups are tapered and have a smaller tapered piece that fits on it giving you a variance of how high the w/s sets in the opening. Believe it or not, all w/s openings on the same body style are not the same.
To use music wire... when you go to the w/s shop to get the urethane, ask them for some wire. They will probably have it. If not, go to a music store and get some guitar string, I think its the e-string. It's pretty cheap. I like to start with about 4 ft. Take one end of the wire and push it through the adhesive until you can get some visegrips on it. You may need some needlenosed pliers for this. Put visegrips on both ends of the wire. I usually start in the bottom middle and pull to one side, to the corner and then up to the top corner. Your top should be loose if it leaks as bad as you say. then do the other side. Pull the wire side to side in a sawing motion, it will get hot!!!. Watch out that you don't cut the dash or your doorpost moldings. That wire will cut about anything if you work on it long enough. Have a helper inside with a piece of cardboard, keeping it between the wire and the plastic parts. Be sure and pull the wire the direction you want to go and not out toward (and through) the glass. Be sure and remove the rear view mirror, too. Those guys at the glass shop might give you some pointers, if you ask. It is still possible to break the windshield with this technique!
You will need a caulking gun to apply the urethane. The urethane will be really stiff and it will help to warm it up. I lay mine on the intake manifold of the glass truck and let it run while I'm taking out the old w/s. Cut the tip off at a point where it is about 1/2 in. in diameter and string a bead all the way around the pinchweld. (I start in the lower middle and do the bottom and then the top and the sides last so I won't get my belly in the adhesive.) Be sure and get the required primers when you buy the urethane. If you don't, the adhesive won't stick and you will be back where you are now. I want to reiterate, you have to clean the old adhesive off the w/s and the pinchweld or you won't have a good installation. Brakecleaner works good.
I hope this helps. I'm usually on this forum in the evenings if you need any more help. DeKuma, you did a good job, too.

 

I think my windsheid is leaking too. I thought it was the cowl vent at first, but it's probably the w/s.

Is there a trick to removing the chrome trim without destroying it? I have a bad habit of using just a bit too much force on these things, if you know what I mean.

Thanks!

-J

 

You can get a set of trim removal tools from Harbor Freight for about $8, but it's not hard to do with a long flathead screwdriver if you look under the trim.