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Black goop in rad.

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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #16  
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From: Elk City, OK
ok, word to the wise.... Don't change your oil til after you do the cooler..... Drain your coolant and remove your filter before you remove the cooler. You can get the cooler in and out without having to remove the exhaust manifold or jacking up the engine, you just have to unhook the steering shaft and move it outta the way, remove your drivers side tire and remove the splash shield. You can work it out from there. And make sure you pick up some assembly lube and don't be afraid to use it on the O rings and walls of the cooler. Grab a spare gallon of oil. After you put the cooler back in, put in the oil an dspin the old filter back in. You wanna run the engine with just water and the old oil in it for atleast an hour. That will flus out the assembly lube from the cooler oil and coolant side. You don't want that crap contaminating your fresh oil.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #17  
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I would just drop a 6.9 in it but the problem is this is my only truck....got it for a good deal so I though I'd just get new head gaskets and be back on the road with it...not the case had a lot more to do and now time with it is running out, going to be out of high school in a few and I need a truck now so I can get my career going in construction.....I'm not giving up on this truck yet...but if I find out there is any block damage that will call for a new engine That's the end of the line for me....just don't have the time.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:23 PM
  #18  
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well its a shame that would even cross your mind never sell the good old idi oreo knows about block trouble and he just dropped in another idi what im gunna do to and im in high school so it doesent really matter might cost bout 3000 for motor and installation if you cant do it if you can bout 2000
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #19  
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yep yep. second engine.... just long enough til i get my 6.9 built. you can find em out there bud. or just get a cheap *** little car for now until you can get around to getting a new engine. of course we are talking like your engine is shot.... might not be. hope its not for ya bud.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:34 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming
yep yep. second engine.... just long enough til i get my 6.9 built. you can find em out there bud. or just get a cheap *** little car for now until you can get around to getting a new engine. of course we are talking like your engine is shot.... might not be. hope its not for ya bud.
I hope once I change the oil cooler things start going smoother.....I love my truck and it would kill me to sell it....just getting aggravated with all the little set backs is all.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #21  
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hey thats the nature of the BEAST and when it aint happy your not but when it is i know i sing halliluia dont let it beat you lol ive had a wheel bearing, 4x4 low go out,speedo odometer and tach go out all over one little measilly sensor so what you have is worse than my luck but better than other ppl on here have had diesels are sometimes way worse than gas and when they are it just sucks till its fixed
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:28 PM
  #22  
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So, you are confident that the goop is oil? Blackish gray and sticking to the inside of the rad doesn't sound like oil to me. Just suggesting that you make sure before you start on something you don't have to do. It has happened.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:36 PM
  #23  
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it is deffinatley oil just where is it commin from i think thats been solved to though so its all good just hopin it aint that c word i dont want to say you know what im sayin
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:37 PM
  #24  
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From: Elk City, OK
when oil goes though the paces of your cooling system, thats kinda what happens. thats the exact case for my system. the oil cooler is a good place to start. $43 bucks in O rings and gaskets, then see how it goes. if its still happening then go to the next possibility from there.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #25  
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OK, because I have read this thread over several times and I haven't seen the OP'er confirm that it is oil. I would check the surge container for deposits and think about adding some water to the rad to overfill a little. Oil floats and will come over the top. Then you can run again and check again to see if the goop comes back. Just my two bits, which is less than $43 bucks and time spent.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:50 PM
  #26  
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From: Elk City, OK
Originally Posted by mabc926
I took off the cap on top of the rad to have a look see, and it is filled with black goop!\
dont get much closer to the top then right inside the radiator under the cap. you cant tell that its oil, it doesnt look like standard motor oil. looks like assembly lube. its got a consistency of lotion and the gray color of the lube. unless he sent it out to be tested then you cant tell if it is oil. and checking your overflow tank wont always help, especially in these cooler months. i know i almost never overflow into my tank.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 09:03 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming
you cant tell that its oil, it doesnt look like standard motor oil. looks like assembly lube. its got a consistency of lotion and the gray color of the lube.
Oreo hit the nail on the head!

Looks just like he said....got a thick layer of it coating the inside of the rad.

I'mma try and clean out the rad the best I can and fill it up with new fluid just so I can get it home and do more work.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 09:46 PM
  #28  
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fill it and take mtor oil and extra coolant and should be good to go
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mabc926
Oreo hit the nail on the head!

Looks just like he said....got a thick layer of it coating the inside of the rad.

I'mma try and clean out the rad the best I can and fill it up with new fluid just so I can get it home and do more work.
Bummer! God luck with it.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 11:12 AM
  #30  
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my 7.3 had the same problem new oil cooler o rings and was good to go I had to take radiator to shop to have it boiled out grrrr still have a little residual crud in there hopefully your is just the o rings to easy fix
 
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