Electical Problem
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From: Inez, KY 41224
Electical Problem
I have an '85 F-150 4WD SWB with a 5.0 and a 5 speed tranny. It needs some body work and a tune up. While it's just setting around waiting for me to work on it and give it some TLC in my spare time, you know like after work and what little free time I have on the weekends, I'll start it up and let it run for 10 to 15 minutes just to keep the batt. charged and everything kinda lubed up every week or two. Well here's my problem, I fired it up about a week ago, instead of running smooth like always it acted like it was flooding. When I gave it some fuel it coughed, spit, sputtered and I think it tried to back fire through the carb and then it died. I then tried to start it back up but there's nothing. No power what so ever. I checked the batt. with a battery checker it shows OK, but there's no power coming from it to nothing. Would the starter solenoid or the voltage regulator be bad? Or is there something else wrong with?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: S. Mississippi
I could have sworn I replied to this earlier today, but.... hmmm...
If you have lost all power going into the cab, I'd suspect that your fusable link is blown. It should be on the hot side of the solenoid, by the positive battery cable. If this blows out, you'll lose power like that and will have a no start condition.
Also I would check & clean the battery terminals, and clamps as these will give a similar issue as well.
If you have lost all power going into the cab, I'd suspect that your fusable link is blown. It should be on the hot side of the solenoid, by the positive battery cable. If this blows out, you'll lose power like that and will have a no start condition.
Also I would check & clean the battery terminals, and clamps as these will give a similar issue as well.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Renton, WA
Then it's likely a problem with one of the main wires real close to the battery, your just gonna have to look around, I can't see your truck from here 
Take a close look at the connection where the battey cable connects to the starter silonoid and all the wires that connect there, most likely one of them is damaged/burnt or loose. Also check the ground wires from the battery, should be one to the block and one to the body, are they tight/solid/connected?
Take a close look at the connection where the battey cable connects to the starter silonoid and all the wires that connect there, most likely one of them is damaged/burnt or loose. Also check the ground wires from the battery, should be one to the block and one to the body, are they tight/solid/connected?
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From: Inez, KY 41224
Also I have a light hooked up from the alt. to tell me if the alt. is charging or not. When the motor is running the light is on and when it's not the light is off. Well I went to check the fuseable links and the light was on and the truck wasn't running. Does that mean the alt is bad? Also checked and I have no juice going to the head lights, park lights, key switch, radio, brake lights, I have power at the battery but no where else except for the light hooked up to the alt. and I unplugged it to save my battery.
Last edited by HardWorkinMan; Jun 20, 2010 at 02:53 PM. Reason: addition
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
If the factory alternator light is on it is a warning light. You are not charging.
If the battery is draining with the ignition off it may well be a bad rectifier diode.
As was said above, check the fusible links attached to the starter solenoid.
Welcome to the forum HardWorkingMan!
If the battery is draining with the ignition off it may well be a bad rectifier diode.
As was said above, check the fusible links attached to the starter solenoid.
Welcome to the forum HardWorkingMan!
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From: Inez, KY 41224
It's not the factory warning light, this is something a friend of mine came up with. It's wired into the wire coming off the alternator itself and lays over on the inside of the fender off to itself so that when the truck is running and you have thee hood up you can see it and know that the alternator is charging.
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From: Inez, KY 41224
No it's a 12v bulb and it's not wired to the field winding. It's wired into the lead coming off of the alternator to the battery, the voltage regulator or wherever the lead wire goes to. If you're here to give me a hard way to go...you're doing a fine job at it!
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
I'm not here to give anyone a hard time. 
I would think an '85 5.0 would have a 2G alternator, but I may be wrong. I've been inside too many Fseries trucks over the years to remember when every harness and accessory changed.
I'm still trying to figure out in my head how that bulb might work... even if it were a diode.
I would think an '85 5.0 would have a 2G alternator, but I may be wrong. I've been inside too many Fseries trucks over the years to remember when every harness and accessory changed.
I'm still trying to figure out in my head how that bulb might work... even if it were a diode.
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From: Inez, KY 41224
OK maybe I left out a detail or two, I was trying to make a long story short. The 5.0 is originally out of an '84 Mustang GT. It has the serpentine belt on it. I upgraded the alternator that came with it for a one wire alternator, if that makes any sense because I was looking for more juice to help run the 400 watt amp mounted behind the seat. The amp don't work no more and is uninstalled. The truck was running just fine a couple of weeks ago. Can you tell me where to find all of the fuseable links from the battery out? obtw, I was just joking around about the giving me a hard way to go stuff, sorry to confuse you.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Most of the fusible links will be found attached to the hot lead of the starter solenoid.
They may be various colors like Green, Yellow, Brown, Red or Purple but they will have a thickened rubber end at the lug.
If one or more look blistered -or- you can pull them apart (lengthwise) they should be replaced with ones of the same rating.
I'm surprised you didn't just go with a 3G out of a later Mustang, Taurus/Sable or Lincoln.
These can be found dirt cheap at junkyards or on Ebay.
The 130A version will put out 150 if you push it and you can change the rectifier diodes to get 200A.
You will need a huge charge cable and a MegaFuse of the proper rating.
These trucks harnesses weren't really protected because of the pathetic output of the stock alternator.
But if you try and feed that much current through the stock wiring you are inviting disaster.
A melted harness at best, and a very real chance of fire.
They may be various colors like Green, Yellow, Brown, Red or Purple but they will have a thickened rubber end at the lug.
If one or more look blistered -or- you can pull them apart (lengthwise) they should be replaced with ones of the same rating.
I'm surprised you didn't just go with a 3G out of a later Mustang, Taurus/Sable or Lincoln.
These can be found dirt cheap at junkyards or on Ebay.
The 130A version will put out 150 if you push it and you can change the rectifier diodes to get 200A.
You will need a huge charge cable and a MegaFuse of the proper rating.
These trucks harnesses weren't really protected because of the pathetic output of the stock alternator.
But if you try and feed that much current through the stock wiring you are inviting disaster.
A melted harness at best, and a very real chance of fire.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
The first possibility to come to my mind (and has already been mentioned) is
bad/corroded connections... Remove and clean the connections on all battery cables -
battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, solenoid to fender (where it grounds), solenoid to
starter motor, negative battery cable to engine block/frame. <-- Last one is exceedingly
important.
Also as was mentioned, verify your fusible links haven't blown, they're approximately the
size of your pinkie finger from the fingernail to the first knuckle.
If you don't have power to the headlights, methinks at least one root of the problem is in
that general area. If you're using those add-on battery cable ends (instead of the
molded-on kind) then, in my mind, that doubles your chances of corrosion causing your
problem.
I have no idea of the circuitry of your one-wire alternator so I can't tell you what it means
when that light is on without the engine running but it doesn't sounds good. In any event,
one thing at a time - get power to your cab & headlights & everything else, then figure out
the apparent charging system problem - measure the voltage at the battery with the
engine off, then with the engine running.
bad/corroded connections... Remove and clean the connections on all battery cables -
battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, solenoid to fender (where it grounds), solenoid to
starter motor, negative battery cable to engine block/frame. <-- Last one is exceedingly
important.
Also as was mentioned, verify your fusible links haven't blown, they're approximately the
size of your pinkie finger from the fingernail to the first knuckle.
If you don't have power to the headlights, methinks at least one root of the problem is in
that general area. If you're using those add-on battery cable ends (instead of the
molded-on kind) then, in my mind, that doubles your chances of corrosion causing your
problem.
I have no idea of the circuitry of your one-wire alternator so I can't tell you what it means
when that light is on without the engine running but it doesn't sounds good. In any event,
one thing at a time - get power to your cab & headlights & everything else, then figure out
the apparent charging system problem - measure the voltage at the battery with the
engine off, then with the engine running.
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From: Inez, KY 41224
UPDATE! I found my problem! There's a wire that came from the bottom of my alternator and it got against something hot and burned into. After splicing the wire back together everything worked like normal. I hit the key and it fired right up. Weird uh? Oh well thanks for the replies and all of the good advise.