Winch wiring ?
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Winch wiring ?
I am installing a 15K warn electric winch in a 2009 5.4L CC SD.
Planning on using quick connects to connect at the battery only when needed. I only have one battery at this time. Don't want to void the Ford warranty.
My use will be light duty. Mostly to get unstuck when stuck in the northern Michigan two tracks (seasonal roads). To keep track of the battery, I also just put in a voltmeter.
My question is does anyone have any concerns, or suggestions.
Planning on using quick connects to connect at the battery only when needed. I only have one battery at this time. Don't want to void the Ford warranty.
My use will be light duty. Mostly to get unstuck when stuck in the northern Michigan two tracks (seasonal roads). To keep track of the battery, I also just put in a voltmeter.
My question is does anyone have any concerns, or suggestions.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 7
From: NH
Just make sure all your connectors and wiring are properly sized for you current draw and that it is properly fused. IMO i would change your battery at some point for a Optima yellow top or similar depending on how much you use it to not put a big load on your alternator.
Choose a quality dual battery post or similar connector for the battery end. Follow the Winch manufacturers installation instructions without skimping. Keep the connector from the eliments with a quality dielectric spray or grease and routinely keep a close eye on corosion of the connectors.
Choose a quality dual battery post or similar connector for the battery end. Follow the Winch manufacturers installation instructions without skimping. Keep the connector from the eliments with a quality dielectric spray or grease and routinely keep a close eye on corosion of the connectors.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
I am using these connectors to quick connect my winch in my closed trailer
front, back, (of my dually), in the trailer, on the flatbed trailer.
using 2 gauge jumper cables for portable wiring, with a set of these inline
(2- 15ft-2ga jumper cables with connectors get me the 22 ft from dually batteries to the rear use position, have you seen how expensive 30' jumper cables are!?)
the winch is mounted on one of those hitch plates.. with receiver mounted in trailer and on flatbed..
Sam
front, back, (of my dually), in the trailer, on the flatbed trailer.
using 2 gauge jumper cables for portable wiring, with a set of these inline
(2- 15ft-2ga jumper cables with connectors get me the 22 ft from dually batteries to the rear use position, have you seen how expensive 30' jumper cables are!?)
the winch is mounted on one of those hitch plates.. with receiver mounted in trailer and on flatbed..
Sam
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
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From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
As I recall, a 15K winch can pull upwards of 400 amps, so all the wiring and connectors have to be selected to handle a LOT of current! They can pull MORE than a starter motor when working hard, and do it for a while. The harder it is working, the more current it will pull.
If you're truly doing light duty only, you can probably get away with 200A rated connectors - but monitor the connector and cable temperatures during use. If they are too small, they WILL heat up - potentially to point of melting or igniting things - which usually results in great drama.
For my removable winches, I use an absolute minimum of 2 AWG wire, with 2/0 welding cable my preference. For connectors, I use big copper ring lugs that fit on an insulated 3/8" post with wing nuts.
1 STUD NON-FEED THROUGH JUNCTION BLOCK STUD TYPE RED 1 Stud Non-Feed Through Stud Type Junction Blocks Terminal Block Junction Block* - Waytek Wire
Not as convenient as the Anderson Power Pole connectors (175 amp), but capable of flowing a lot more current.
If you're truly doing light duty only, you can probably get away with 200A rated connectors - but monitor the connector and cable temperatures during use. If they are too small, they WILL heat up - potentially to point of melting or igniting things - which usually results in great drama.
For my removable winches, I use an absolute minimum of 2 AWG wire, with 2/0 welding cable my preference. For connectors, I use big copper ring lugs that fit on an insulated 3/8" post with wing nuts.
1 STUD NON-FEED THROUGH JUNCTION BLOCK STUD TYPE RED 1 Stud Non-Feed Through Stud Type Junction Blocks Terminal Block Junction Block* - Waytek Wire
Not as convenient as the Anderson Power Pole connectors (175 amp), but capable of flowing a lot more current.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Oops, I see Anderson now offers a 350 amp version to fit on 2/0 cable! That may be the hot ticket.
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...NNECTOR%2036V/
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...NNECTOR%2036V/
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Thanks for the replies!!!!!!!!!! I want to get this right and not let down the family in the woods.
DAVE67FD--
I wasn't thinking that I needed a fuse. Can you recommend a type?
To your comment "Choose a quality dual battery post or similar connector for the battery end." Are you saying to connect the winch to the top post and move my current stock battery clamp to the side using a side to post adapter? This would be hard due to the battery box being in the way.
sdetweil/mwsF250--
How do you attach (solder?) the 2/0 wires to the Anderson connectors?
---
I guess if I had the money I would get a new battery!!
So, I'll plan on using 2/0 wire with copper ring lugs from battery clamp to the insulated 3/8" posts. Then connect a fuse?, then connect to short length of 2/0 wire to the Anderson quick connects.
Also these new leadless battery clamps don't leave much room to connect anything. Any ideas on connection methods.?
DAVE67FD--
I wasn't thinking that I needed a fuse. Can you recommend a type?
To your comment "Choose a quality dual battery post or similar connector for the battery end." Are you saying to connect the winch to the top post and move my current stock battery clamp to the side using a side to post adapter? This would be hard due to the battery box being in the way.
sdetweil/mwsF250--
How do you attach (solder?) the 2/0 wires to the Anderson connectors?
---
I guess if I had the money I would get a new battery!!
So, I'll plan on using 2/0 wire with copper ring lugs from battery clamp to the insulated 3/8" posts. Then connect a fuse?, then connect to short length of 2/0 wire to the Anderson quick connects.
Also these new leadless battery clamps don't leave much room to connect anything. Any ideas on connection methods.?
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From: Bartlett TN
I did the same set up as what Sam has in the front and back. The placed the Winch on a removeable tray with a hitch up front and back. That way I could use the winch in the front or rear depending on situation.
As far as having a fuse, I would personally always put a fuse system with anything connected to a battery.
As far as having a fuse, I would personally always put a fuse system with anything connected to a battery.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
To attach Powerpole contacts, I:
1) Use a rounded off cold chisel and hammer to crimp the top of the contact down into the wire, kinda making it a bit of a U, like what plier style crimp tools do to smaller contacts.
2) Use vice to complete crimp.
3) Solder with propane torch
"Fusing" a heavy electrical load is more difficult. 400 or 500 amp automotive fuses are not that common!
Most winches are wired like starter motors - no fuses at all, but with cabling carefully routed and protected to prevent damage or risk of shorting.
Other options:
- big a circuit breaker (some big ones out there for competition (loud) stereo vehicles)
- "fusible link". Basically, put in a short length of smaller gage wire in a known safe location. If something shorts out, the fusible link burns up before anything else.
1) Use a rounded off cold chisel and hammer to crimp the top of the contact down into the wire, kinda making it a bit of a U, like what plier style crimp tools do to smaller contacts.
2) Use vice to complete crimp.
3) Solder with propane torch
"Fusing" a heavy electrical load is more difficult. 400 or 500 amp automotive fuses are not that common!
Most winches are wired like starter motors - no fuses at all, but with cabling carefully routed and protected to prevent damage or risk of shorting.
Other options:
- big a circuit breaker (some big ones out there for competition (loud) stereo vehicles)
- "fusible link". Basically, put in a short length of smaller gage wire in a known safe location. If something shorts out, the fusible link burns up before anything else.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,524
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From: CA Bay Area
Those are connectors used in electrical forklifts and easy available on ebay.
I have electric liftgate, electric dump bed pump and electric 8000 lb winch. While tailgate is hard wired, the other things use those connectors.
They are design to be soldered in, but having cables with ends made for bolts -I flattened the end of connectors and drilled a hole in them for bolting the cables. The plastic housing has enough space in it for small bolt.
IMHO the 15k winch is overkill. Not only heavy, clumsy, stiff cable, but drawing lot of power. What is wrong with getting 8k winch and double the cable? It will take few seconds longer to pull, but makes everything way easier.
I have electric liftgate, electric dump bed pump and electric 8000 lb winch. While tailgate is hard wired, the other things use those connectors.
They are design to be soldered in, but having cables with ends made for bolts -I flattened the end of connectors and drilled a hole in them for bolting the cables. The plastic housing has enough space in it for small bolt.
IMHO the 15k winch is overkill. Not only heavy, clumsy, stiff cable, but drawing lot of power. What is wrong with getting 8k winch and double the cable? It will take few seconds longer to pull, but makes everything way easier.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
The terminals snap into the connector after you solder them onto the cable. They have a round end with a 3/8 in deep well to solder into.
I filled it with hot solder and then inserted the stripped cable end, and heated til the cable wicked the solder. (Used a propane torch)
5 min work. Held the flat of the connector with some vice grips.
Sam
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