My old E4OD trans recently took a crap on me, so I replaced it last weekend. I ended up not replacing the TC because I was sent the wrong one, 6 lug when I had ordered a 4 lug. It shifts great now, but it feels like its not in OD. It runs 2000 RPMs at 50 mph where as before it would be around 1400. Pressing the OD off button on the dash has no effect.

Another thing I noticed unusual is if im going 55 and let off the gas, the engine goes down to idle at 500 RPMs. Then when I speed up the engine has to rev back up to speed before i get any power. Before the RPMs would drop a little when I was coasting, but now its like I shift into neutral every time i let off the gas and coast. Im assuming this is related to my other problem?

Has anybody else experienced anything like this? Is it the TC not locking up? Is it something electronic with the OD switch? Is my old TC junk? Truck info is 91 250, 460 motor with 150000 miles, and E4OD with 50 miles. Thanks for any help.

 

I can't help with your trans problem, but where did you get you trans? I might need one soon...

 

Got mine from Monster Transmission. It was really cheap for an E4OD and came with a warranty, only thing is you have to send them back your old one. But that wasnt a problem for me, I would have junked it anyways. Heres the link E4OD Transmission, Remanufactured, 4X4, 4WD, w/Converter & Shipping - Rebuilt Transmission Ford Transmissions E4OD - Monster Transmission & Performance | 800-708-0087 | Fast FREE Shipping!

 

Kanglar-

Did you ever find out what was wrong with the overdrive? I'm having a similar problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

The converter will unlock when you let off the throttle at freeways speeds, same with the coast clutch when the OD cancel is disengaged, both allow you to idle down while still coasting at a good rate of speed - awesome for fuel economy, living hell if you are used to engine braking like you can do with a hand-shaker trans. That whole deal with 2000 rpms at 50 mph tho, that suggest to me that the converter may not be locking at all - when there is load on the engine you can easily see 600 rpms difference between its unlocked and locked states.... Now here's here it gets tricky - locked converter in 3rd gear will yield about the same engine speed at as an unlocked converter in OD under load, so it's a bit hard to tell which state is which - however a conveter that locks in 3rd gear will feel like a nice and firm upshift into the next gear up (hence why many people are puzzled why their supposedly 4-speed E4OD upshifts 4 times as if it had 5 gears), whereas an upshift from 3rd to OD with the converter unlocked is rather mushy and hardly noticeable by feel. So do this, take the truck for a drive and under light acceleration bring her up to highway speed and could your upshifts - three distinct ones would suggest the converter is locking up properly, while 2 good ones (1->2 and 2->3) and one soft and hardly felt (3->OD) could indicate converter lockup clutch failure... I can tell you tho that if both the converter was staying unlocked, and the trans didn't shift into OD, then your engine speed at 50 mph would be a whole lot higher than 2000 rpms - 3rd gear locked for me spinning at 2000 is right around 42-43mph with 32" tires and 4.10 gears, OD unlocked is a bit faster unless I'm pulling uphill but still less that 50 mph.

On the OD cancel button thing, that style you have is fairly trouble-free, it's the ones on the end of the shifter that the '92-up trucks have that are known for getting their harness chewed up by the steering columns. Does the yellow LED come on when you hit the button? Also is it blinking, and if so then when does it start to blink?

 

Maybe you didn't plug the Overdrive? if i recall right, the overdrive is electronically activated, so there must be a wire you didn't plug in, that happened when my tranny was rebuilt. Other issue might be the lever light burned out, wich also happened to me, some good friend repaired it for me, but in the US you can buy the entire button assembly for the lever (including the light) for like $18.

 

Kanglar, sounds like it might just be a bad connection at the solenoid pack. First check it for trouble codes Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test

To add to LCAM-01XA post, another good way to tell is get it up to speed and run steady at say 55mph, keep your foot on the gas holding same speed and lightly toe the brake pedal just enough to make the brake lights light up, you should feel/hear it in the rpms unlocking the TCC then locking right back up again when you let off the brake pedal.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I took LCAM's advice and figured it wasnt shifting to OD at all. This made me pretty sure it wasnt the TC that was bad. I added some more fluid and for the hell of it (I had already counted 18 quarts in the pan) and the problem went away... for a few miles. once the trans heated up the problem came back.

It continued on like this for a few days, it wouldent shift to OD so I would add a 1/2 quart or a full quart and it would shift correctly for awhile. After awhile the problem went away and stayed away, and I counted 22 quarts of fluid in the trans now. Everything I read said a dry E4OD and TC would take 16-18 quarts, but mine seemed to take 22. The dip stick was undecisive everytime I checked it, warm and idling there would be no deffinate fluid line so Im never really sure if its overfull. I have the stardard fluid pan too.

For the record, incase anyone else has this problem, it just goes to show how important fluid level is. The truck has been running great ever since, but I have no idea why it took 22 quarts of fluid to do it. Any ideas?

 

I have a 95 f150 exstended cab 4x4 with the e40d transmission and a 6inch lift and 33s i have a shifting problem that when i put it in drive it moves but vary slowly but when i put it in drive 2 it takes off like it should once i hit about 30 to 40 mph then bump it up in drive it is fine and it runs about 2300 rpm at 70mph the other thing i have no passing gear so i have to drop it down my selfie. Other than that i have no issue no slipping or anything anyone have any ideas. On what it could be?

 

Try banging on the dash above the speedometer / PSOM. I just had my e40od rebuilt to the tune of $3200 and when i got it back it shifted like a pos and wouldn't engage o/d - 4th gear. So, when i left the trans shop the 4th time and 7 days later and it shifted so hard between 1-2 that i banged on the dash yelling obscenities at it and it shifted fine after that. It's been a week and I can def say my speedo is crapping out cuz I can tell when it is going to hard shift from 1-2 and ill bang on the dash and it goes to normal... I do need to take the speedo out and clean/inspect it before too long.
My problem also plagued the PO. They dropped a new reman e4od in it back in 2005 and stopped driving it soon after only to sell it to me last year. They threw a new trans, sensors, and a new PCM/ECU computer at it as well hoping it would fix the hard shifts. Turns out it was a bad speedometer / PSOM. Mine intermittently loses connection from the VSS and can't communicate it to the trans - causing limp-mode / hard shifts. The trans shop had my truck for 7 days looking into the problem. They suspected it to be an electrical and tested all the systems and narrowed it down to the VSS communicating with the trans. MY PSOM was the weakest link. Most expensive repair ever as i likely didn't need the rebuild in the first darn place...

 

....Nevermind, I deleted my comment after seeing comments 100x better than mine....