Temp Sender Not Accurate
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 366
Likes: 3
Temp Sender Not Accurate
Now I know why most folks opt for the mechanical gauges. Since I have installed my 6 volt sender on my 55's 223, after the t-stats open and everything warms up, the gauge climbs to the "H" reading. 
The prior gauge that was on the truck was mechanical and the temp never exceeded 180. I'm now wishing that I never made the change! Is there anything I can do with the stock sender to make it read more accurate? Thanks.
The prior gauge that was on the truck was mechanical and the temp never exceeded 180. I'm now wishing that I never made the change! Is there anything I can do with the stock sender to make it read more accurate? Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Yes. But the question is do you want to.
...A couple of questions:
1. What was wrong with the old sender - anything?
2. Why not convert the mechanical gauge to fit your stock gauge body and face?
3. Have you seen my galler with instuctions on how to convert those without being able to tell?
4. Are you sure it's a 6 volt sender? Does it go all th eway to "C" when you turn on the key?
5. Stock electrical gauge?
6. Does the gauge slowly and eventually creep up to "H" or does it hover somewhere in the middle then just go straight up to "H"
7. Have you ever been in a Turkish prison?
8. I'm assuming you haven't changed anything else on the engine since the mechanical gauge was taken off, and you really don't have an overheat situation - this is strictly a gauge problem. Have you driven it withth enew sensor or just idles inthe driveway?
9. If you are sure it is not overheating, and there is no air trapped under the sender, would you like to know how to adjust it?
I'll tell you if the answers come back correct.
...A couple of questions:
1. What was wrong with the old sender - anything?
2. Why not convert the mechanical gauge to fit your stock gauge body and face?
3. Have you seen my galler with instuctions on how to convert those without being able to tell?
4. Are you sure it's a 6 volt sender? Does it go all th eway to "C" when you turn on the key?
5. Stock electrical gauge?
6. Does the gauge slowly and eventually creep up to "H" or does it hover somewhere in the middle then just go straight up to "H"
7. Have you ever been in a Turkish prison?
8. I'm assuming you haven't changed anything else on the engine since the mechanical gauge was taken off, and you really don't have an overheat situation - this is strictly a gauge problem. Have you driven it withth enew sensor or just idles inthe driveway?
9. If you are sure it is not overheating, and there is no air trapped under the sender, would you like to know how to adjust it?
I'll tell you if the answers come back correct.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 366
Likes: 3
Answers for Julie
Hi Julie! Here are my answers..hope I pass! LOL!
1. The old sender was mechanical and nothing was wrong with it rather I didn't care for the under the dask gauge look.
2. Sounds interesting...does it take special skills?
3. No-but I will take a look.
4. According to the pkg & P/N. Yes, it goes all the way to C when the key is on.
5. Yes
6. Yes-slowly rises to H
7. Not in the lifetime but I see that you like the movie "Airplane" LOL!
8. I agree that there is no overheating situation and I have taken it for a spin for a few miles without stopping..no drop in temp reading.
9. I loosened the sender until it started seeping then re-tightened. Hopefully that got rid of any air trapped. Yes I would like to know how to adjust. Would I need to install a resistor?
1. The old sender was mechanical and nothing was wrong with it rather I didn't care for the under the dask gauge look.
2. Sounds interesting...does it take special skills?
3. No-but I will take a look.
4. According to the pkg & P/N. Yes, it goes all the way to C when the key is on.
5. Yes
6. Yes-slowly rises to H
7. Not in the lifetime but I see that you like the movie "Airplane" LOL!
8. I agree that there is no overheating situation and I have taken it for a spin for a few miles without stopping..no drop in temp reading.
9. I loosened the sender until it started seeping then re-tightened. Hopefully that got rid of any air trapped. Yes I would like to know how to adjust. Would I need to install a resistor?
Yes. But the question is do you want to.
...A couple of questions:
1. What was wrong with the old sender - anything?
2. Why not convert the mechanical gauge to fit your stock gauge body and face?
3. Have you seen my galler with instuctions on how to convert those without being able to tell?
4. Are you sure it's a 6 volt sender? Does it go all th eway to "C" when you turn on the key?
5. Stock electrical gauge?
6. Does the gauge slowly and eventually creep up to "H" or does it hover somewhere in the middle then just go straight up to "H"
7. Have you ever been in a Turkish prison?
8. I'm assuming you haven't changed anything else on the engine since the mechanical gauge was taken off, and you really don't have an overheat situation - this is strictly a gauge problem. Have you driven it withth enew sensor or just idles inthe driveway?
9. If you are sure it is not overheating, and there is no air trapped under the sender, would you like to know how to adjust it?
I'll tell you if the answers come back correct.
...A couple of questions:
1. What was wrong with the old sender - anything?
2. Why not convert the mechanical gauge to fit your stock gauge body and face?
3. Have you seen my galler with instuctions on how to convert those without being able to tell?
4. Are you sure it's a 6 volt sender? Does it go all th eway to "C" when you turn on the key?
5. Stock electrical gauge?
6. Does the gauge slowly and eventually creep up to "H" or does it hover somewhere in the middle then just go straight up to "H"
7. Have you ever been in a Turkish prison?
8. I'm assuming you haven't changed anything else on the engine since the mechanical gauge was taken off, and you really don't have an overheat situation - this is strictly a gauge problem. Have you driven it withth enew sensor or just idles inthe driveway?
9. If you are sure it is not overheating, and there is no air trapped under the sender, would you like to know how to adjust it?
I'll tell you if the answers come back correct.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
"Correct! You win a cookie" (ok what movie and actor said that?).
Well, last summer we had 50 threads about gas gauges and sending units. Old F1 and I would joke if one came up longer than a week from the last. This summer we are getting bombarded with Temp Gauges - must have gotten the gas gauges fixed!
Here's what I would do - and did do on my truck. Convert the electric dash gauge to the mechanical. All you need to do is remove the gauge inner works from an El Cheepo Sunpro Mechanical gauge and transplant it into the case from your stock gauge. Then reinstall or glue on the original gauge face.
You can do it, it only requires some minor cutting of the original case with a dremmel. Do the oil pressure too.
Here's a pic of my 51 Gauge cluster after I converted the oil and temp to mechanical - amps and fuel are still original electric:
The alternative is to keep the electric gauge and adjust the needle down on the hot side. I'm not sure this will work since it sound more like a sender compatability problem than the gauge simply going up too far.
But, you can try it. The gauge has two holes in the back once you take the backing/mounting plate off. So what you'll need to do is warm up the truck to optemp, then remove the gauge from the cluster, pull it down from the dash and reconnect it electrically (without the mounting plate on it). Let it go up to "H" then VERY CAREFULLY use a very small screw driver to put in the alligator teeth in the hole and carefully twist the screw driver so the teeth move - which in turn moves the needle down.
Only problem with this is is the truck actually overheats some day, the needle may max out at a lower reading, and you'll never know you are ovrheating. This adjustment is a VERY FINE LINE! Here's a pic of the back of the gauge and the "Alligator Teeth" adjusters (2 and 8 o'clock):
If it were me, (and once it were me) I'd convert them to mechanical.
Well, last summer we had 50 threads about gas gauges and sending units. Old F1 and I would joke if one came up longer than a week from the last. This summer we are getting bombarded with Temp Gauges - must have gotten the gas gauges fixed!
Here's what I would do - and did do on my truck. Convert the electric dash gauge to the mechanical. All you need to do is remove the gauge inner works from an El Cheepo Sunpro Mechanical gauge and transplant it into the case from your stock gauge. Then reinstall or glue on the original gauge face.
You can do it, it only requires some minor cutting of the original case with a dremmel. Do the oil pressure too.
Here's a pic of my 51 Gauge cluster after I converted the oil and temp to mechanical - amps and fuel are still original electric:
The alternative is to keep the electric gauge and adjust the needle down on the hot side. I'm not sure this will work since it sound more like a sender compatability problem than the gauge simply going up too far.
But, you can try it. The gauge has two holes in the back once you take the backing/mounting plate off. So what you'll need to do is warm up the truck to optemp, then remove the gauge from the cluster, pull it down from the dash and reconnect it electrically (without the mounting plate on it). Let it go up to "H" then VERY CAREFULLY use a very small screw driver to put in the alligator teeth in the hole and carefully twist the screw driver so the teeth move - which in turn moves the needle down.
Only problem with this is is the truck actually overheats some day, the needle may max out at a lower reading, and you'll never know you are ovrheating. This adjustment is a VERY FINE LINE! Here's a pic of the back of the gauge and the "Alligator Teeth" adjusters (2 and 8 o'clock):
If it were me, (and once it were me) I'd convert them to mechanical.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 366
Likes: 3
Ok Julie, you talked me into the conversion on my original dash gauge! I saw the pictures in the gallery and it looks absolutlet terrific. Nice work. With my 55 dash, there are 4 outside screws that appear to hold the instrument bezel . If there enough slack in the wires maybe I could tilt the bezel down and remove the original gauge. It would be a heck of alot easier on my back and neck.
Ok....Leslie Nielson; movie: Airplane.
Ok....Leslie Nielson; movie: Airplane.
"Correct! You win a cookie" (ok what movie and actor said that?).
Well, last summer we had 50 threads about gas gauges and sending units. Old F1 and I would joke if one came up longer than a week from the last. This summer we are getting bombarded with Temp Gauges - must have gotten the gas gauges fixed!
Here's what I would do - and did do on my truck. Convert the electric dash gauge to the mechanical. All you need to do is remove the gauge inner works from an El Cheepo Sunpro Mechanical gauge and transplant it into the case from your stock gauge. Then reinstall or glue on the original gauge face.
You can do it, it only requires some minor cutting of the original case with a dremmel. Do the oil pressure too.
Here's a pic of my 51 Gauge cluster after I converted the oil and temp to mechanical - amps and fuel are still original electric:
Attachment 24815
The alternative is to keep the electric gauge and adjust the needle down on the hot side. I'm not sure this will work since it sound more like a sender compatability problem than the gauge simply going up too far.
But, you can try it. The gauge has two holes in the back once you take the backing/mounting plate off. So what you'll need to do is warm up the truck to optemp, then remove the gauge from the cluster, pull it down from the dash and reconnect it electrically (without the mounting plate on it). Let it go up to "H" then VERY CAREFULLY use a very small screw driver to put in the alligator teeth in the hole and carefully twist the screw driver so the teeth move - which in turn moves the needle down.
Only problem with this is is the truck actually overheats some day, the needle may max out at a lower reading, and you'll never know you are ovrheating. This adjustment is a VERY FINE LINE! Here's a pic of the back of the gauge and the "Alligator Teeth" adjusters (2 and 8 o'clock):
Attachment 24817
If it were me, (and once it were me) I'd convert them to mechanical.
Well, last summer we had 50 threads about gas gauges and sending units. Old F1 and I would joke if one came up longer than a week from the last. This summer we are getting bombarded with Temp Gauges - must have gotten the gas gauges fixed!
Here's what I would do - and did do on my truck. Convert the electric dash gauge to the mechanical. All you need to do is remove the gauge inner works from an El Cheepo Sunpro Mechanical gauge and transplant it into the case from your stock gauge. Then reinstall or glue on the original gauge face.
You can do it, it only requires some minor cutting of the original case with a dremmel. Do the oil pressure too.
Here's a pic of my 51 Gauge cluster after I converted the oil and temp to mechanical - amps and fuel are still original electric:
Attachment 24815
The alternative is to keep the electric gauge and adjust the needle down on the hot side. I'm not sure this will work since it sound more like a sender compatability problem than the gauge simply going up too far.
But, you can try it. The gauge has two holes in the back once you take the backing/mounting plate off. So what you'll need to do is warm up the truck to optemp, then remove the gauge from the cluster, pull it down from the dash and reconnect it electrically (without the mounting plate on it). Let it go up to "H" then VERY CAREFULLY use a very small screw driver to put in the alligator teeth in the hole and carefully twist the screw driver so the teeth move - which in turn moves the needle down.
Only problem with this is is the truck actually overheats some day, the needle may max out at a lower reading, and you'll never know you are ovrheating. This adjustment is a VERY FINE LINE! Here's a pic of the back of the gauge and the "Alligator Teeth" adjusters (2 and 8 o'clock):
Attachment 24817
If it were me, (and once it were me) I'd convert them to mechanical.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
It was Don Rickles in "Kelleys Heroes" (when they are uploading the gold at the bank, he's hurt and sitting inthe back of the truck, and he has his assistant do the math amounts for each persions share of the gold).
The oil takes a little more cutting than the temp which is just drilling a hole in the back of the case. I really prefer the mechanical gauges! They never lie!
The oil takes a little more cutting than the temp which is just drilling a hole in the back of the case. I really prefer the mechanical gauges! They never lie!
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 366
Likes: 3
Julie, I will be buying the sunpro gauges today and after looking at the procedure in your gallery, since I will be buying the white faced gauges and my stock gauges are also white, could I just use sunpro faceplate instead of the stock ones? The reason I would prefer to do that is that the sunpro temp gauge includes temp readings. Thanks.
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Julie, I will be buying the sunpro gauges today and after looking at the procedure in your gallery, since I will be buying the white faced gauges and my stock gauges are also white, could I just use sunpro faceplate instead of the stock ones? The reason I would prefer to do that is that the sunpro temp gauge includes temp readings. Thanks.
Mainly with these gauges you aren't looking for an accurate reading, but rather just normal operation or failure (peg high or low).
The gauge in the picture has already been converted to mechanical by the way.
OBTW - one more word of advice. When you hook up the mechanical oil pressure gauge, buy the COPPER tube repair kit and use that instead of the plastic line provided with the gauge. The plastic gets brittle and breaks over time. I think the copper tube and fittings were $10 or close to that.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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Thank you, but i already have this saved..i need to know the process to get to that final product..also the hooking part as well, now that would be awsome seeing im going to start installing my e-z wire kit 2morow(yeah right e-z i hope LOL)..so i wanted to get my guage all set up prior.
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