Brakes: A question, a comment.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: West Michigan
Brakes: A question, a comment.
1: The question. To be fair to any one who may choose to help, I'll start with the question. Does anyone know the thread on the brake bleeders? ( '89 F-250 7.3di 4x4 extendo cab ) I sheared one off and will be doing some drilling, tapping and maybe exercising some of my creative language skills. I've been in the metric world for a while now and I'm just hoping to save some time / a trip into town?
2: The comment. While pulling my starter today, I looked cross eyed at my front passenger side brake line.
Those of you who live in the rust belt know my pain. Drip drip drip. While at ^utoZone picking up my life time warranted replacement starter (grrr), I was introduced to copper/nickel alloy brake lines... and WOW.
I paid a LOT $45 for 25' coil, but it's NICE, real nice. I just fit the line by hand under the truck. 10 minutes top, with a better fit than the factory stuff. It's super malleable and didn't even think of kinking.
PLUS it's made here in the good ole' US of A, down the road a piece, in Muskegon MI. ! The package also says it won't rust? I want to believe my fellow Michigan rust bucket drivers, but time will tell.
Until next time,
duginthamud
2: The comment. While pulling my starter today, I looked cross eyed at my front passenger side brake line.
Those of you who live in the rust belt know my pain. Drip drip drip. While at ^utoZone picking up my life time warranted replacement starter (grrr), I was introduced to copper/nickel alloy brake lines... and WOW. I paid a LOT $45 for 25' coil, but it's NICE, real nice. I just fit the line by hand under the truck. 10 minutes top, with a better fit than the factory stuff. It's super malleable and didn't even think of kinking.PLUS it's made here in the good ole' US of A, down the road a piece, in Muskegon MI. ! The package also says it won't rust? I want to believe my fellow Michigan rust bucket drivers, but time will tell.
Until next time,
duginthamud
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,409
Likes: 1
From: back in SE Iowa
atta boy!!!!keep up the posting lol atleast ya caught the leaking line before you had an issue at 70 mph.as far as the bleeders go just go to the parts store and see if they can get you a replacement or match the threads on another bleeder if they cant
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: West Michigan
Next outing in the truck will be hauling 2-3 cords of wood home. YEP, darn glad 'twas in the barn and not on the road!~ I guess I shoulda figured, it's the last one to be replaced.
Prolley what I'm gonna do, but the tap is my concern. I have a big selection of taps, but not sure if I have "that one". If I can pick one up while I'm in town, and KNOW it's the right one it'd be nice.
Prolley what I'm gonna do, but the tap is my concern. I have a big selection of taps, but not sure if I have "that one". If I can pick one up while I'm in town, and KNOW it's the right one it'd be nice.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,394
Likes: 852
From: Mi'kma'ki
i had the same problem.when i bought my truck a caliper had a bleeder snapped clean off.
i priced the caliper at autozone.since it was low cost.i didn't even mess with it.just replaced the caliper lol.
anyway,if you feel like spending the time to get it out,all you need to do is ask for the caliper.remove the bleeder screw and then you know just what it is.they can then tell you the threads of the thing.simple as that.check online first to see if they have a caliper in stock-very likely.
i priced the caliper at autozone.since it was low cost.i didn't even mess with it.just replaced the caliper lol.
anyway,if you feel like spending the time to get it out,all you need to do is ask for the caliper.remove the bleeder screw and then you know just what it is.they can then tell you the threads of the thing.simple as that.check online first to see if they have a caliper in stock-very likely.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
From: Peterborough, Ontario
I don't know what thread they are, but, different than a bolt, these are at least hollow in the centre, so it's a lot easier to drill them out.
I broke one off a few years ago,, take your time, drill slowly, and sneak up on the size, in my case I was able to get it to just the threads, which I was then able to pull out in pieces with a stiff pick. Biggest thing is to go slow and keep checking depth, it's a bit of a guessing game, so that you don't damage the seat that the bleed screw seats on to seal.
I broke one off a few years ago,, take your time, drill slowly, and sneak up on the size, in my case I was able to get it to just the threads, which I was then able to pull out in pieces with a stiff pick. Biggest thing is to go slow and keep checking depth, it's a bit of a guessing game, so that you don't damage the seat that the bleed screw seats on to seal.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,409
Likes: 1
From: back in SE Iowa
ya gotta think also when your drilling it out you may get shavings in there too which could cause issues
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
For the price of a replacement, I would never waste my time trying to get the old bleeder out.
I spend to much time on salted roads myself.
I spend to much time on salted roads myself.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
+1 on replacing the caliper, actually both cause if one is that bad chances are the other ain't in much better shape either. It's a safety equipment after all, and $80 is still much cheaper than fixing your front end cause of poor brakes...
On the brake line - my local AZ folk have bee trying to sell me on that for a week now, as I may be replacing the lines on my buddy's truck. Sure does look nice, and the never-rust part is real tempting especially here in the rust belt. However, I ain't sure the line is made in Muskegon - that's just where the company's HQ is, they also make brake line fittings and adapters and many of those have "made in China" written on the back of their baggie... Oh well, global economy at its finest I guess
On the brake line - my local AZ folk have bee trying to sell me on that for a week now, as I may be replacing the lines on my buddy's truck. Sure does look nice, and the never-rust part is real tempting especially here in the rust belt. However, I ain't sure the line is made in Muskegon - that's just where the company's HQ is, they also make brake line fittings and adapters and many of those have "made in China" written on the back of their baggie... Oh well, global economy at its finest I guess
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: West Michigan
Well, drilling the @#$% bleeder is more of a frustration thing. The calipers are 3 or less years old and probably have less than 5k miles on them. How the bleeder rotted in is beyond me. I'll do the drilling last, while one of my children / un-paid laborers steps (ever so slightly) on the brake pedal so as to provide a constant flush of fluid. If I screw it up, well then I'll go get a new one.
I did some digging and figured the bleeders are 1/4-28 or 3/8-24. I've got both those taps so I'm strait. I can check at home, and make sure I get the right bleeder at the store.
For anyone who cares I ordered some of the hose transistions down to the calipers for $5 (b4 shipping) at rock auto.
First time buying from them, the google monster spewed them out when I was looking up bleeders, and well for an additional $18 I will have now replaced pretty much everything south of the master cylinder. Calipers, pads, pistons, shoes, lines, nice.
Regarding LCAM-01XA's comment about being made in china... disappointing and yer right I noticed that on my package of threaded tubing ends. Made in USA, China, or Korea
Well it MIGHT maybe, although probably not, been made in America, or China, or Korea...
Until next time,
duginthamud
I did some digging and figured the bleeders are 1/4-28 or 3/8-24. I've got both those taps so I'm strait. I can check at home, and make sure I get the right bleeder at the store.
For anyone who cares I ordered some of the hose transistions down to the calipers for $5 (b4 shipping) at rock auto.
First time buying from them, the google monster spewed them out when I was looking up bleeders, and well for an additional $18 I will have now replaced pretty much everything south of the master cylinder. Calipers, pads, pistons, shoes, lines, nice.
Regarding LCAM-01XA's comment about being made in china... disappointing and yer right I noticed that on my package of threaded tubing ends. Made in USA, China, or Korea
Well it MIGHT maybe, although probably not, been made in America, or China, or Korea...
Until next time,
duginthamud
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
For anyone who cares I ordered some of the hose transistions down to the calipers for $5 (b4 shipping) at rock auto.
First time buying from them, the google monster spewed them out when I was looking up bleeders, and well for an additional $18 I will have now replaced pretty much everything south of the master cylinder. Calipers, pads, pistons, shoes, lines, nice.
First time buying from them, the google monster spewed them out when I was looking up bleeders, and well for an additional $18 I will have now replaced pretty much everything south of the master cylinder. Calipers, pads, pistons, shoes, lines, nice.
As for the bleeders rusting out, my trick against it is anti-seize on the threads and then packing the dust cap with grease to seal off the opening at the end of the bleeder - antiseize prevents the treads from rusting solid, and the grease stops moisture from getting inside and rusting the bleed hole on the caliper side shut.