Hey guys. Me again. So I messed around with the wiring, cleaned everything up a bit and still no help. It is apparent that there is definitely a voltage problem somewhere. Until I get this sorted out, I have unplugged the SPOUT connector for the time being. Will it damage my engine if I drive it without it plugged in? At park anyway, it sounded much better with much better throttle response. I wanted a second opinion before I drive it anywhere as is. I figured it would be better than driving it with the off-timing that it was at.

 

Removing the spout plug disables ignition advance, and if doing so seems to improve engine operation that would suggest the base timing is set wrong. This won't hurt the motor but it won't make much power when driving. What type of problem are you having anyway?

 

Well, I have an 89 F250 4X4 with a 351W that has some major voltage issues. Just for kicks and giggles before taking it to an electrician specialist, I thought I would study some notes from Ford Fuel Injection (thanks to another user who suggested that site). The truck has already had a full tuneup to include complete balance and alignment of all 8 plugs with new wires, distributor cap and rotor. I have also replaced the exhaust manifold because there was about an inch and a half split down the center of the old one and was told that might be what was causing the truck to skip, sputter, hesitate at acceleration, and miss. The front tank does not work (which I thought was the fuel pump for said tank) and have already replaced the fuel pump only to learn that the voltage leading to the pump was so weak that it wasnt providing enough voltage to feed the engine causing it to give a false indication that the fuel pump or filter was bad. So after the knowledge I received from fordfuelinjection.com, I decided to start with the check engine codes even though it isnt required to pass inspection, I am concerned that my rough running engine would cause pinholes in the pistons if it kept running as it was or burn my valves up. Since learning how to check for codes on my truck, I found the following codes:

31 - PFE/EVP circuit below minimum value both at KOEO and intermittent at KOER.
29 - Insuficient input from speed sensor through continuous memory.
41 - HEGO Sensor indicates system lean right side, switching defected always lean KOER.
63 - TPS circuit below minimum value.
18 - IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded (this code flashed before I decided to unhook the SPOUT connector).

Anyway, it was my belief that the voltage was causing all of my issues. When I read everything out, it made perfect sense (especially when talking about code 18) that my truck was running like crap regardless the tune-up. What I have not figured out is how to loosen the distributor to reset my timing once I figure all of this out.

I do not own a OHM meter or volt meter spiffy enough to track down what is causing the voltage issue, but I did clean all of the connectors and have no improvement outside of the truck running smoother with the SPOUT connector unplugged. I did not drive it since then, but it certainly idles smoother.

 

Good effort so far. Any chance of separating "all" the codes denoting as KOEO, continuous or KOER's?

 

Sure.

31 - KOEO and KOER
18 - KOEO
29 - KOEO
63 - KOEO
41 - KOER

 

Any kind of volt/ohm meter will do here. It's interesting that it runs better with the spout plug removed, I would interpret this as meaning that removing it may have also disconnected the short circuit problem code 18 was referrig to. If that's the case it's probably the TFI module itself that has a short because there's not much wiring between the spout plug and the module. What you could do before replacing the module is check voltages on the EVP and TPS circuits to see if they are in spec with the spout plug removed, and if they go out of whack when you plug it back in. If so that confirms the diagnosis.

 

What would the values need to be for those circuits so that I dont freak out when my meter gives me an odd number?

Interesting that you say that it could be a short in the TFI module. I mentioned that to my mechanic and he told me that usually if that module goes bad, the truck wouldnt start at all. In doing my research, I figured that at least three of the codes could be related to that TFI module going bad. But my mechanic kinda discouraged me from pursuing that route. I have not tried anything else since.

 

You could pull the TFI & get it benched checked. but being Dist. mounted, that's a P in the A itself. I have test #'s you would expect to see when testing the TFI connecting pins, but I believe it requires removal of the Diff. anyway. Here's the Specific TFI/PIP link, discussing the TFI &PIP sensor interrelationship, sharing the same power & ground path for one thing, Notice it mentions (on the non remote mounted TFI versions such as yours) to strongly consider simultaneous replacement of both the PIP sensor (stator) To insure averting future eminent problems. As mentioned, w/o any visually apparent source for that circuit to be grounded, within the TFI module would be a logical location.http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=25

 

W/ all due respect to your mechanic, I'm leaning real hard towards the TFI! TFI failure comes in many different flavors as far as symptoms on it's way to "catistrophic" or total failure! However a PIP sensor failure will usually tell on itself during error code scans.

 

Me too, I have several modules here that are only partially faulty, the motor will run on it but misses, they don't always fail completely dead. I don't have any faith in Autoparts store bech tests though.. have seen them pass know bad parts.

 

For all of that, might it be easier to just replace the whole distributor and start from scratch?

 

Lucky for me, I did a hard self test. I counted my codes the hard way...several drawn out times to make sure I counted right. After 3 different days of tests, it about made me sick . I have ADHD, so counting those codes were especially difficult, but I got them down and confirmed a few times so that I was sure what the truck was trying to tell me. I like this better anyway because getting a machine to test is like trying to pass me a message through a third party on the phone. Info gets mixed up when passed through someone else. This way the truck told me what was wrong with it.

I think I will take my chances with you guys and go ahead and replace the TFI. Still not sure how to set the timing though once I get it replaced.

 

This is more than just a "viscous rumor". PIP senor replacement can be an adventure in itself. It would still require dealing w/ the TFI module, because that's not included w/ a new Distributor. (I'm not a big fan of refurbished Dists.'s, but many have had good luck w/ em. Maybe I'm the only exception!)

 

Perhaps I will try the TFI then first and see if I get a better result. Is that something I can take the chance with at a salvage yard or would I be better off buying that one new?

 

You preachin to the choir! Here's a $22. investment towards maintaining your mental health! Ford OBD-1 digital numeric display w/ memory! The informative user manual is worth the cost!

Having a touch of it myself, it takes all the pain & suffering out of error code scans. Equus Innova 3145 OBD-I Ford Scan Tool

I picked that up in your original post, believe it or not. It can be a blessing or a curse, depending on how you deal w/ it. Looks like your doing just fine!

Here's a "set timing" link: Ford Fuel Injection Setting the timing