Striker plate mount
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 197
Likes: 2
From: Brisbane, Australia.
Striker plate mount
Hi guys, I'm thinking of deleting the rib between the striker mount holes, so the striker will pull in tight to the cab pillar, use 1/4UNF screws to increase the clamping force.
There is evidence that keeping the screws tight has been a problem in the past, what do you think ?
Thanks, Steve.
There is evidence that keeping the screws tight has been a problem in the past, what do you think ?
Thanks, Steve.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 593
Likes: 15
From: Wichita, KS
I would leave that if possible, though I can't imagine it weakening the door frame substantially. I don't remember if there is a backing plate or just nuts on the backside, but if there is a backing plate, it should spread the load out. I know that these old trucks didn't fit together like a new Honda, but I would have thought that there would be enough adjustment to account for "normal wear-and-tear". How much does the door need to come in?
Dave
Dave
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 197
Likes: 2
From: Brisbane, Australia.
Gidday Dave, I can see the idea why the rib is there, (the little one between the holes) the back side of the striker has grooves in it to engage the rib in the pillar, but the grooves are too fine to engage the rib properly, I thought a flat surface would be better.
A plate 3/4''W 2''L 5/16'' thick with two 1/4 UNF threads on the back side for the screws to go into.
The L/H side had self tapping screws through the striker and into the pillar in an effort to stop the striker coming loose and the screw heads staked.
When I took the striker off the steel between the bolt holes was cracked, this is what made me think maybe this rib isn't a good idea.
Good luck with your project,
Steve
A plate 3/4''W 2''L 5/16'' thick with two 1/4 UNF threads on the back side for the screws to go into.
The L/H side had self tapping screws through the striker and into the pillar in an effort to stop the striker coming loose and the screw heads staked.
When I took the striker off the steel between the bolt holes was cracked, this is what made me think maybe this rib isn't a good idea.
Good luck with your project,
Steve
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 197
Likes: 2
From: Brisbane, Australia.
Ok guys, so the raised area between the bolt holes is supposed to be there and bite into the striker plate when you do the screws up - is that right? The striker plate is new. Did your pillar look like this John?
Thanks for your help,
Steve.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Gibsonia, PA
Yes, but the backplate had normal fine-threaded holes for the screws which held the striker in the correct (adjustable) position for the door to be aligned properly when closed. If you removed the rib, then the force of the door being closed and/or the "rattle" of the door against the cab when driving will cause the striker to shift so you have trouble closing the door or it hanging out of alignment. I wish the screws were Phillips head though (or Allen). Don't always have the "perfect" sized flat screwdriver !
Are you having clearance problems between the striker and the door latch?
Are you having clearance problems between the striker and the door latch?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 197
Likes: 2
From: Brisbane, Australia.
No problems John, just want to get it right. I'll repair the L/H side (cracks) and reinstate the rib. Good idea with the Allen or Phillips headed screws, may get them done up tighter without slipping and butchering the heads.
Thanks, Steve.
Thanks, Steve.
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