'55 Panel SUSPENSION <<HELP !!!>>
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New User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3
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From: New York City
'55 Panel SUSPENSION <<HELP !!!>>
New user and happy to be here. This is my first post to FTE so bear w/ me. I have a '55 F 100 Panel and I am deciding what to do with the suspension. Due to the fact time and funds are low b/c I am in the midst of swapping in a '53 Flathead I am leaning away from IFS and going w/ a modified stock style set-up. Anyone have any advice/opinions on a dropped front axle vs. the down and forward spring set-up ? Being a panel vs. pick-up was an initial concern. Bob's F 100 suggested the dropped axle. Mid Fifty leaned me more towards the down and fwd kit. Anyone care to weigh in and help end my indecision ?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Both boss, both!
How far down do you want to go? You can combine the dropped axle with the down and forward springs. Most important is a full rebuild of whatever you use.
I always advise that you first sit down with a piece of paper and pencil and make a list of what you want to use the truck for, what characteristics are important, and how much money (realistically) can you put into it and what period of time you want to spend with the truck off the road.
Next make an objective assessment of what condition the truck is in and what are it's immediate needs are for safety and what are the longer term changes you'd like to make.
For some reason IFS is typically the first change mentioned, but in fact a rebuilt beam axle suspension can be made to look, ride and handle as well as most any IFS and is well within most owner's abilities and budget.
Come back with your lists and you'll get good suggestions and advice here.
How far down do you want to go? You can combine the dropped axle with the down and forward springs. Most important is a full rebuild of whatever you use.
I always advise that you first sit down with a piece of paper and pencil and make a list of what you want to use the truck for, what characteristics are important, and how much money (realistically) can you put into it and what period of time you want to spend with the truck off the road.
Next make an objective assessment of what condition the truck is in and what are it's immediate needs are for safety and what are the longer term changes you'd like to make.
For some reason IFS is typically the first change mentioned, but in fact a rebuilt beam axle suspension can be made to look, ride and handle as well as most any IFS and is well within most owner's abilities and budget.
Come back with your lists and you'll get good suggestions and advice here.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: New York City
Thanks for the reply ! Here's a little more about where I'm at; First thing is I live in New York City the pothole capital of the known world so a nominal drop is prob. wise. 5", although it'll look great, may not be practical. Besides the suspension I am also in the middle of ditching the 400 small block from the co. who's name we don't mention that was hacked into my truck before I bought it for a '53 Flathead so funds aren't that plentiful right now. I am hoping to have my truck on the road before the fall. I already have new U Bolts, Pins, Spring shackle hangers/bushings as well as new king pins installed on the front end so I am close to ready to run so sticking with a stock style set up is prob. best. Sorting thru dropped axle vs. down and fwd springs and what to do on the rear is where I could still use some help.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Well, you say you already have installed new kingpins, so replacing the axle would mean doing it again. For a moderate drop and softer ride you could remove every other leaf from the spring pack or use the down and forward springs if the OEM springs are in bad shape. Funny thing is that the front axle centers in the wheel well arch better on the panel than on the pickup so you may not want to move the axle forwards, then use the reversed eye springs instead, but if you do you will also need a lengthened drag link. Just stay away from the monoleafs. I'd also suggest replacing the OEM tie rod with the HD unit from Mid Fifty. Inexpensive and much stiffer thant the stock unit for absorbing the pothole whacks, and you'll be all set if power steering is in your future. If your steering box is as worn as most OEM units, then converting to the Toyota PS box makes more sense IMHO than rebuilding or buying a rebuilt stock box. That is a swap that works so well it's like it was designed to go together.
In the rear remove every other leaf and rebush the rear springs. The panel is heavier in the rear than the pickup, so it drops and rides easier on the lightened springs (unless you plan on carryiing a heavy load regularly). Take a look at my gallery for pix of my 56 panel.
In the rear remove every other leaf and rebush the rear springs. The panel is heavier in the rear than the pickup, so it drops and rides easier on the lightened springs (unless you plan on carryiing a heavy load regularly). Take a look at my gallery for pix of my 56 panel.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: New York City
I took a look at you gallery. Great Pics ! Since we are both running Panels I apologize in advance b/c I will prob. be bothering you regularly. My axle is a used one from Bob's F 100, another reason I'm inclined to stay w/ it. I bought it b/c the old one was cracked and sleeved. The condition of the front and rear springs is questionable. There are springs missing and one was cut and re-drilled on the front and there are missing ones along with crap u-bolts/pins out back. So that being said I am most comfortable going w/ new leaves/springs. Now the question is rev. eye/down and fwd. I am not going w/ mono in either case. I don't plan on hauling much more than a grill and a cooler so removing/replacing leaves out back would work. I am lucky to have a major Classic Ford Parts supplier close to me so I could get replacement leaves there easily. Overall I'd like to get around 3"+ drop. I also bought a rebuild kit for the stock steering box there. A PS set-up isn't in the budget. Apart from a minor gear oil leak at the adjuster nut it seems to have worked well. Even though I bought a new tie-rod i'll invest in a HD one to help tighten up the steering.
