Fan is loose on my 65F100, 352. Impatiently waiting for my service manual to come in the mail, but want to get started on going through the mechanicals. The Fan has a decent wobble in it, my question is, I guess, what would make it this loose? The fan is tight to the spacer, so I guess I mean the fan itself isn't loose, but the shaft in the water pump??? Any tips on how to get the fan and spacer off without removing the radiator? It didn't seem like I could get the bolts out far enough to remove the fan to start with. Any help would greatly be appreciated by this novice Ford man.

thanks

pete

 

does the whole fan/pulley assembly wobble up and down?

 

Yeah, I can grab the fan and the deal wobbles.

 

Probably the shaft that comes out the front of the water pump?? Pump seems good, no leaks, motor runs cool.

 

Replace the water pump ASAP. I let one go a bit too long and it plowed a pretty good groove in the radiator. Please learn from my experience (bad). Steve

 

Hey Redsox, in my haste to answer the critical question about the wobble, I missed the question about removal. Completely loosen the four long bolts and you can remove the fan and spacer as a unit. They are usually stuck pretty tight so you will have to massage it loose. A light mallet works well for this. Once that is out of the way, you are home free. Steve

 

Time for a new waterpump: The waterpump bearing is shot, causing the fan to wobble around.

To test: With the engine OFF grab both sides of the fan and see if you can wiggle it up/down .. side to side.

 

Looks like a new water pump is in store for my weekend plans. Thanks for the info fellas.

pete

 

You should be able to remove it all without removing the radiator. BUT take a scrap piece of card board and put it against the fins of the rad so you don't accidentally pierce your radiator. Good luck

 

Ok, Lets see if I understand. The engine needs to be OFF? Does it need to be completely off or can I test it when it is just idling?

 

One other VERY important thing about these waterpumps...dont get all anxious and gung ho and attack the bolts that hold it to the engine...these bolts go into water jackets in the engine...thus there crud and stuff as well as whatever crud has accumulated between the bolt shaft and the water pump housing...this very same scenario is possible on the alternator to engine bolt...these are long bolts so semi easy to break off...
Upon reassembly, USE ANTI SEIZE ON THE THREADS!!!! Its cheap stuff and makes life alot more pleasant. If the coolant that does come out looks nasty...brownish red vs pretty and green...replace it all...I would pull the lower hose off of the radiator and see what its insides look like as well as in the radiator where it goes...if theres a spring in the lower hose, look at its condition...if its rusty looking...see if you can get another one to go in there...its to prevent the hose collapsing and when these springs go away it plugs things up...also...DEFINATELY replace the little short hose between the pump and the engine...with it off...wire brush the nipple to get a good clean fit..cut hose lengthwise and peel off nipple...or whatever connection you mess with...prevents ruining the hose connection whether its on a heater core or whereever...hard or mushy hoses...toss them...get pre formed radiator hoses also if you need to...Gates is the brand I use...same with fan belts...also a good time to look at yours...If when you go to the parts store they say theres no 352 in a 65 but a 292...laugh a bit...tell them to look at 66 trucks...all these parts are the same...also, dont return the waterpump...if theres a core...until the trucks totally done, no leaks, good flow etc...I have heard of guys getting new remanufactured water pumps with half rotted impeller blades...thus not enough water circulation...



Its a lot I know...but Ive got the water pump dance in my future too...just some things to look at while things are apart...


- cs65

 

Wear gloves...

 

Pete,
WELCOME TO FTE!

Since you're having to drain down the coolant at least below the water pump level, if I were you I'd simply take another few minutes & pull out the radiator and give it a good inspection and flushing. I'd also use a pressurized garden hose and backflush the heater core at this time as well.

Wire brush the water pump mounting bolt threads to ensure that you when you install the new water pump, you get a proper torque tightening sequence. As CS65, indicated, some of these bolts go into the water jacket, so I'd use a RTV silicone on the bolt threads - rather than a never-seize compound. I'd also use this opportunity to change out the coolant with a fresh batch - now your new-to-you 352 coolant system should be good for a while.

BarnieTrk

 

Replace the short 5/8" by-pass hose at the same time you replace the waterpump.

If you don't and it blows, you have to remove the waterpump to change it.

There is a steel nipple that presses into the intake manifold this hose fits to, do not be surprised if it's rotted out.

Ford used the same one for years on many V8 engines, so it's available from autoparts stores.

 

Thanks for all the information and tips. Looks like I'll be putting this off until Sunday now, have an antique auto auction to go to Sat, lots of stuff you don't see around here much. for those that are curious, I'll drop the link in here, no, I don't work for them auctioneer, just like to get out the word. Sunday is fun day/water pump day!

thanks

pete

UC Pagel Realty & Auction