Everything I'm use to runs off fuses, not circuit breakers, so this is pretty much my first experience with it in a truck.

Right now I don't have headlights, turn signals or break lights, and I know the headlights at least work, everything else should too. However I think i threw the breaker when I was testing the 2-speed switch for my differential, there was a click sound that came from the dash area.

Ok, this might sound stupid, but can I just "throw" it back like a house breaker? Or did it blow like a fuse that needs to be replaced?

Anyone have a clear diagram of it all? I looked under there right before I ran out of light and noticed there seemed to be quite a few female ends with nothing plugged in to them. And I did notice some in-line fuses (so someone must have been playing around)... the one I opened actually had a bolt with the head cut off as a fuse... not even sure why they bothered putting it in instead of straight wiring!


And I also discovered that you can pull too hard on the headlight **** and from what I read on here I was very lucky to be able to just put it back in and have it stay! lol

*and I did come across something like this where Julie had posted a diagram with the '52, but in it it was mentioned things would be different on the 12v like I have...

thanks

 

your breakers should be on the firewall / engine bay right side . also if and when i can freakin' remember i had a site , it might have been van pelts that showed 56 ford truck 12 volt , as i pritned it to do the now looming { this monday ! } attempt at rewiring my 53 in 12 volt .do a search online for the wiring schematics for ford trucks of your vintage including images , thats how i find / found some of what i have . no you cna't reset it. you might want to update to a newer light switch . i'm using one out of a 74 ford truck i have that's brand new { had to figure out the wiring codes on it , the 91 bird harness i'm cutting down , yada yad yada , !!! } it fits the dash and just glued the **** from a 53 on it's stem and walla looks oe ! i'm also using an intermittent wiper assembly , either the 91 birds or an 84 frod trucks , as it is a neccessity ! i'm using the 84's switch as it is a dash mounted piece and again popped its **** off and put a 53 unit on ......... the electrical is the biggest thing i'm changing myself right now . oh and trying to figure out how to update my blower motor without major surgery .... looks like that 61 12 volt unit may be going in if i cant make the vic , bird , or mitsu unit fit .................................. electrical UUUUUUUUUUUUUGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!

 

The Ckt. Brkr's. are automatic reset. However, a lot of times the old ones draw moisture over the years and don't always reset themselves. They are available through the usual places that sell all the vintage Ford truck stuff and the last time I looked they weren't too expensive. They are probably even available through a real parts store if you have one near you. Not Auto Zone or Advance Auto.

You are on the right track with Julie. PM her and ask for a link to the wiring diagrams that cover your truck. Be sure to tell her the year, model and all that.

Later Man...

 

Dave is right in that the circuit breaker inside the 55/56 headlight switch should automatically reset - unless you completely cooked it.

All three of the functions you mentioned are powered through the headlight switch (turn signal are secondary off the brake light circuit). However, a couple of them are dependent on the position of the **** (pulled out for headlights).

In this case it sounds like you have either fried the switch, OR the single power in wire that powers the switch. Then there is always the possibility that someone installed a fuse somewhere along that power in line.

I would drop out the switch, and check to see if you have 12 volt power at the "Power In" lug (marked "Hot Bus" in the drawing below). Be sure and disconnect your battery first then reconnect after the switch is out. Check that connection for integrity - both your wires and the power stud. If there's no power at it you have a blown rogue inline fuse or a fried wire/connection coming in on the power supply wire.

If you do have power at that point, try cycling the pull **** and turning it the full throw of the inst panel lights dimmer. Try the headlights again. If that's a no go, it's time for a new switch.

Here is the wiring diagram for your headlight switch. Good luck!



PS I believe the fuse in the back is for interior lights. If you sent enough amps through the switch you may have fried that too. And that may have been what you heard. "Hot Bus" is 12 volt power coming in.

 

Din't I remember you providing a link to complete electrical diagrams for the old trucks??? I think that is what he needs. He also needs to find out how his electric two speed differential is worked into the system.

Later...

 

Thanks for the help, I'll climb under there later today and find out whats going on.

I do have the intrustment lights though, well at least the oil and battery ones...

 

Then the circuit breaker should be ok and you've probably fried a few contact points in the switch. If you have instrument lights, you should have running lights (tail lights and parking lights) when you pull out the **** out to the first "spot."

All my drawings are in my gallery (not the album) marked "Electrical Diagrams" I'm not sure about the two speed differential - or where it gets power from. It should be switched (as opposed to hot) so it should come off your ignition switch "ACC" post or a fuse bar that is switched on with the ignition. I'm not sure why you would want it hot - ie run it out of the headlight switch - a PTO yes, but not a rear end.

 

I went and started a new topic since I learned more and it sorta evolved into the headlight switch thing and other problems...