battery drain
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New User
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the ammeter i'm using is like a one you would install in a truck. not a handheld tester. I'm going to check the starter again. then the transmission. then any big cables. I think its very possible that the positive is being shorted out against the frame. this all started happening when i gave it a hard start in the winter though. I did hear a relay yesterday clicking behind the dash underneath somewhere. it's not a regular accessible relay. gotta take stuff apart.
i still have to investigate the glow plugs. can't wait to find out what this is.
amos
i still have to investigate the glow plugs. can't wait to find out what this is.
amos
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A battery short to frame would result in huge current draw and immediate damage because the energy dissipation is enormous. Either the circuit protection will cut the circuit, or the wire will burn open and cut the circuit, or the harness insulation will catch on fire and the truck will burn down.
A 60 Amp draw is more likely failure of some electrical device. I think you're on the right track with checking starter motor, glow plugs, and the other handful of devices that can support that kind of current without blowing the circuit open. Like somebody said, you might have quickest success just feeling around for something that is hot to the touch.
A 60 Amp draw is more likely failure of some electrical device. I think you're on the right track with checking starter motor, glow plugs, and the other handful of devices that can support that kind of current without blowing the circuit open. Like somebody said, you might have quickest success just feeling around for something that is hot to the touch.
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From: Stephensville WI
See, the 60 amp measurement is what is throwing us. If you really have a 60 amp draw you should be able to feel and maybe even see what the issue is. At 60 amps there should be fuses blowing. There are very few things in the truck capable of drawing a sustained 60 amp load without melting, smoking, sparking and flaming.
You may want to go get a proper handheld DVM that has a clamp-on DC ammeter capable of reading over 60 amps. All you need to do is put it around the wire to read the load. Fluke makes some nice ones.
You may want to go get a proper handheld DVM that has a clamp-on DC ammeter capable of reading over 60 amps. All you need to do is put it around the wire to read the load. Fluke makes some nice ones.
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I believe he is overlooking something very simple. I don't think its the starter, as apparently it starts and runs ok. He has replaced the starter, alternator and batteries, and still has the problem. So I feel that pretty safely rules out those parts. He should be able to monitor the drain, while pulling fuses, maxi first, then the others. If that doesn't find the problem circuit, then I would be looking along the positive cable route. Actually, I would look along the positive cable route first, as it will be the quickest, and shortest thing to check.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: White Rock BC Canaduh
That's where I was coming from with parts replaced already thinking maybe it's a slight wear in the cable causing a kind of "arching short" (if there is such a term).
Either way I hope he gets it sorted out. I'm trying to track down a power drain myself and its a pita. It's hard to even find the time to work on it.
Rick...
Either way I hope he gets it sorted out. I'm trying to track down a power drain myself and its a pita. It's hard to even find the time to work on it.
Rick...
I believe he is overlooking something very simple. I don't think its the starter, as apparently it starts and runs ok. He has replaced the starter, alternator and batteries, and still has the problem. So I feel that pretty safely rules out those parts. He should be able to monitor the drain, while pulling fuses, maxi first, then the others. If that doesn't find the problem circuit, then I would be looking along the positive cable route. Actually, I would look along the positive cable route first, as it will be the quickest, and shortest thing to check.
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well, i just checked and it's not the starter. the drain activates when i turn the key forward and will continue to drain until I unhook the batteries. sometimes the drain will go down to 30 amps, then if i turn the key forward again and then turn it off, it will go back up to 60 amps or more.
the truck does start up and run fine. just in a half hour the battery will drain down to nothing.
glowplugs is what i will look into next. maybe a bad temperature sensor, making the glowplugs thing it's cold and they are on always? or some relay i'm not away of that.
amos
the truck does start up and run fine. just in a half hour the battery will drain down to nothing.
glowplugs is what i will look into next. maybe a bad temperature sensor, making the glowplugs thing it's cold and they are on always? or some relay i'm not away of that.
amos
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It took 17 post to cough up that critical piece of info!
That is like going to the doc and not telling them you are at high risk for AIDS because....
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no, the ammeter is not installed. I just touch the posts of the ammeter, one to the positive cable and the other to the positive post of the battery. that is how you are supposed to do it right?
amos
amos
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Yes, that method is fine. Personally, I'm not so fixated on the "60 Amp" number like some people seem to be. Like you've already pointed out, it's pretty obvious the batteries are being drained and it needs to be fixed regardless of what number people think should be coming up on that meter.
What did you find with the glow plugs?
What did you find with the glow plugs?
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batteries are new. I also put in a second set of new batteries to be sure none are faulty. never checked the glow plugs. I'm doing that today.
pardon me gearloose. I was so exciting typing out my message i never really stopped and thought to long about the details of my truck.
amos
pardon me gearloose. I was so exciting typing out my message i never really stopped and thought to long about the details of my truck.
amos