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How do you remove the leaf springs from a '59 f250? I'm trying to take the dually axle off my '60 parts rig(f350) and put it on my '59 pickup that I'm building.
There's a nut that's perpendicular to the leaf spring eye but loosening that doesn't seem to do anything. How exactly are they supposed to come apart?
after you remove the nut you will need to drive out the locking pin, that will free up the shackle pin. If the 59 is like a 53 than you will drive the shackle pin out by using a punch,coming from inside the frame. Good luck
Make sure you remove the U-bolts first. then jack up the frame until the spring comes off of the axle. Otherwise the pins will not come out very easily. Be very carefull with your fingers and wear gloves to keep your hands and fingers from being pinched. Make sure you have at least two (2) jack stands under the frame, you don't want it slipping while you are removing the springs.
Thanks, i havent been able to work on it in a while but did spend a while with it yesterday. I got the locking pins out no problem however was still stumped by the main shackle pins, all my buddies have newer trucks(70's and 90's) and said they'res were different.
Turns out if you remove the zerk fitting there's a slot for a large flathead screwdriver, meaning the pins threads out.
Does anyone know where to get a flathead bit for a socket wrench, it has to be almost exactly 3/4" wide and fairly thick. I can't find them anywhere, even the repair shops didn't have one the right size.
I have a 58 and I don't remember how to "unscrew" those. I'm surprised that's how its done. I must have done it years ago and I guess I've forgotten, but I do have the tool it sounds like your describing. I dont' recall why I have it. I think it was something to do with a tie rod or pitman arm end etc. i dont' think it was the leafs. Anyway its a 1/2inch
drive socket with the 3/4inch wide flat head screwdrive that you mention.
I don't remember where I got it. But it has a part number KAL-1555.
If your truck is like my 1950 F1 there is a hole in the frame behind the pin, so you can drive the pin out with a punch. ( I did have to heat one of mine hangers up to get the pin out.)
I believe the slot is there so you can adjust (turn) the pin so that the locking pin will go in.
Thanks, i havent been able to work on it in a while but did spend a while with it yesterday. I got the locking pins out no problem however was still stumped by the main shackle pins, all my buddies have newer trucks(70's and 90's) and said they'res were different.
Turns out if you remove the zerk fitting there's a slot for a large flathead screwdriver, meaning the pins threads out.
Does anyone know where to get a flathead bit for a socket wrench, it has to be almost exactly 3/4" wide and fairly thick. I can't find them anywhere, even the repair shops didn't have one the right size.
I'm fairly sure you won't be able to unscrew the pin, the slot is for a screw driver but that is for turning the pin to line up the groove were the locking pin passes through. You still have to drive the pin out from the back through a hole in the frame as stated above.
Does anyone have a diagram or know for sure if the 57-60 trucks thead out? I talked with a guy I know who runs a shop and he called their spring supplier who looked it up and said on a '59 f250 it threads out.
Hopefully someone will have a book. I don't know about your rear leaf springs etc. I've got a 58 F100, and that's of course likely to be different.
I thought that immediately when you first mentioned F250. I don't even have the rear leafs anymore-because I went to a 4link type coil over suspension in the rear, but I still have the front oem leaf setup and they are not any kind of unscrewable type units, but for sure that doesn't mean yours arent. I would think you could maybe just mess with it a little and see. not a possibility? Or maybe do more google searches for other sources. There are big truck people here on this site. So just keep asking and your topic will stay up towards the front and sooner or later someone here will find out for you.
They do not screw out. They must be punched out with a punch just a bit smaller than the pin. The brass bushings will have to be removed also. Install the new bushings and hopefully the new pin will slide right in. If not the bushings will need to be reamed to fit the new pin but it should go in with a little grease applied. The slot is only for turning the pin to align with the locking pins.
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