Ok Ive never been faced with this problem before would you replace the engine or buy a new truck. I had the truck looked at by 3 different shops and all 3 tell me there is a bad rattle in the bottom end. Truck burns a little oil and an engine replacement was recommended by all 3. So heres the deal i can get an engine through Ford and installed for $4,100. Not really that bad. The motor really wasnt priced too bad I compared it to where I work and not a bad deal. The truck is a 2000 F-250 and i still owe a litte money on it. I just bought it about a year and a half ago. With cash for clunkers used trucks are crazy priced. Couldnt believe what used ones are going for anyway what do you think? Repair or trade?? Thanks for the advice.

Semper Fi
Larry B.

 

I would find out what a "bad rattle" is before plunking down $4100 dollars or selling the truck.

 

Exactly. What's the rattle?

When does it happen? Full throttle? Cruising? Acceleration only? What?

 

Op, where are you located?

First thing, he's right, what's a 'bad rattle'. A good mechanic can tell you atleast which pair of cyclinders is making the noise and whether its a bearing(it always is) or something different. How many miles do you have on the vehicle/engine? And what are the specifications of the truck? A low mile '00 XLT 4x4 is well worth fixing, IMHO. A '00 high mileage 2wd XL is probably better off being traded in/parted out. I'm guessing your's is somewhere in between, but either way I would take those things under consideration.

Next, I'd hold off on the entire new engine unless you know what you are getting. If you've got to get a new one, either go REAL cheap with a junkyard that will give you a few months of warranty, or drop the full amount for a Jasper(doesn't have to be them). I'd like to see a breakdown of the cost of $4100, it seems to be about par, but I'd be interested to know if they are selling you a good engine at a reasonable labor charge, or pulling a junkyard version and charging you labor out the back door. Just my pennies.

BTW, labor guide says somewhere between 13-18 hours of labor, low end for auto trans and 4wd, high end for 2wd manual(it has to do with whether or not you can leave the trans in place or if it has to come out with the engine). @ $60 an hour, labor should be between $800-$1000, if they want more, then find out why, let us know, maybe we can throw the BS flag.

 

the egine Im buying through the Ford Dealer. 3 yr 100k mile warranty. One thing the dealer couldnt tell me was if they improved the design of the head so spark plugs wouldnt blow out. I would like to hope so. The engine with tax was like 3600 and change. Which was a good deal in my opinion. Engine comes with valve covers, oil pan, and a gasket set which was cheaper than what i could buy it through my work for. And they didnt charge me a core. Im having an instructor at a local college we supply parts to who was a Ford Tech at a local dealer ship. $450 in labor. Not bad. I was going to have just the head gasket done on it and 2 shops quoted me $2000 just to do the head gasket. It leaks oil on the passenger side near the back and from what ive heard thats a flaw in the design of the head. I thought about doing it myself but Im afraid i wont get it timed right and then im really screwed. The rattle occurs at idle, you can really hear it knock when you climb under the truck. As far as the truck goes its a 4x4 lariat extended cab. Truck just rolled over 135k. I dont know i did the math and looked at trucks and i couldnt really find one comparable to what i have for a good price. Maybe its just the area I live in but even my loan officer said truck prices are up. Thanks for the interest guys Ill take all the advice i can get.

 

And idle rattle can be something as "simple" as a loose timing chain - either a stuck tensioner, worn guides, where the chain is loose enough it's hitting the timing cover.

It ONLY happens at idle?

 

4x4 Lariat w/ 130k says keep it. Those are good prices, labor is more than reasonable, and the engine price is about par with the warranty. One thing, get a copy of that warranty before you purchase the engine. alot of warranties are only valid if installed in a licensed shop by an ASE mechanic(it's so they can make the shop cover some of the expense of failure, IMHO). If it's a longblock, then you wouldn't even need to worry about the timing on the new one, if it's not long block then add another few hundred for the timing set. I would definiately look into whether it could simply be a bad tensioner in the timing.

Is this a primary vehicle, and do you have a means of transpo otherwise? If so, I'd pull the timing cover off and see if they have play. An easier method might be to pull the valve covers off, use a long screwdriver to gently push on both timing chains, above and below the cam sprocket(see if they have play, you'll know if you have a bad tensioner or guides). Keep us posted and let us know what you decide on.

Keep in mind, car-parts.com, you can find a couple good, longblock engines, just drop in and drive, labor cost may be the same, engine cost will cut in half; but then, reliability goes a little south also