Hub Assembly Replacement
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: germantown, WI
Hub Assembly Replacement
Well im going down the road of replacing my hub assembly due to the fact that my manual 4x4 hub has quite a bit of play up and down. I was reading about replacing the thrust washer because my ESOF doesnt engage. Do i need to replace just the passenger side or both driver and passenger side?
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
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From: Milroy, PA
How much can you move it? They all move some. They just slip into the splined part of the unit bearing, and have a metal clip that keeps them from coming out. So if your talking about being able to move the body of the lockout, unless its more then maybe an 1/8" I wouldnt be worried.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
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That might just be your sway bar bushings causing the rattling/clunking sound. I had to replace mine for that same reason. You do need a press to get out the old end links. Here is a write-up if needed: 2004 F250 Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
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Elder User
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From: germantown, WI
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 715
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From: germantown, WI
well when out and tried to shake the lockout part again and it moves slightly like you said but where else cud this noise be coming from... I have noticed that my shocks are able to turn side to side freely is that right?
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,274
Likes: 1
From: Milroy, PA
Good chance your clunk is coming from your leaf spring eye bushings. But you could pull your shocks off first, and take it for a ride. It wont do anything crazy, just be a bit more bouncy. Pretty good chance your spring eye bushings are the noise though, since you already did the sway bar bushings.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,327
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Well im going down the road of replacing my hub assembly due to the fact that my manual 4x4 hub has quite a bit of play up and down. I was reading about replacing the thrust washer because my ESOF doesnt engage. Do i need to replace just the passenger side or both driver and passenger side?
Stage 8 X-LOCK KIT- The locking spindle nut for Dana 30, 35, 44 & 60 & 70 replaces the out dated Jam nut system.
The patented Stage 8 Locking Spindle Nut is comprised of 5 parts; a thrust washer, a specialized notched washer, the spindle nut (which can be set to an individual pre-load value), a locking retainer and a heavy spring steel snap ring. The Locking Spindle Nut assembly is easily installed without any specialized tools and spindle nut itself can be locked within ½ degree of any position so you will never have to over or under torque and will maintain the required bearing preload value. This extremely tough innovation withstands severe reverse torque, a real plus when you’re 25 miles away from civilization.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,274
Likes: 1
From: Milroy, PA
We dont have those style hubs. Those are for standard style locking hubs, with a pair of bearings like in the picture. We have a unit bearing, and different style lockout. Nice find though.
I just came across this Stage 8 Hub kit, thought it was pretty cool.
Stage 8 X-LOCK KIT- The locking spindle nut for Dana 30, 35, 44 & 60 & 70 replaces the out dated Jam nut system.
The patented Stage 8 Locking Spindle Nut is comprised of 5 parts; a thrust washer, a specialized notched washer, the spindle nut (which can be set to an individual pre-load value), a locking retainer and a heavy spring steel snap ring. The Locking Spindle Nut assembly is easily installed without any specialized tools and spindle nut itself can be locked within ½ degree of any position so you will never have to over or under torque and will maintain the required bearing preload value. This extremely tough innovation withstands severe reverse torque, a real plus when you’re 25 miles away from civilization.
Stage 8 X-LOCK KIT- The locking spindle nut for Dana 30, 35, 44 & 60 & 70 replaces the out dated Jam nut system.
The patented Stage 8 Locking Spindle Nut is comprised of 5 parts; a thrust washer, a specialized notched washer, the spindle nut (which can be set to an individual pre-load value), a locking retainer and a heavy spring steel snap ring. The Locking Spindle Nut assembly is easily installed without any specialized tools and spindle nut itself can be locked within ½ degree of any position so you will never have to over or under torque and will maintain the required bearing preload value. This extremely tough innovation withstands severe reverse torque, a real plus when you’re 25 miles away from civilization.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
And where would you propose we use the above kit? We don't use a Dana in the rear, and the front Dana 50/60 is a completely different configuration.
Probably be of some use to the Dodge guys, however...
Edit: Mike, above, beat me to it in the same minute.
Pop
Probably be of some use to the Dodge guys, however...
Edit: Mike, above, beat me to it in the same minute.
Pop
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,274
Likes: 1
From: Milroy, PA
You have to unbolt your leaf springs, and either press them out, or heat them up until they melt a little, and hammer them out quick.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,327
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sorry, thought I found a winner, guess not. I am always learning everyday. But on the plus side. I am doing my turbo mods right now and found out that Stage 8 does offer locking turbo housing bolts. I already ordered new bolts from Bob, but it's good to know if they become problematic in the future.