It all started when I got a CEL without any symptoms. I went to the auto parts store to check and clear the codes. It had all 8 circuit low codes. Had them clear it and continued on. The next day the CEL came back still with no symptoms. A couple days later it sputtered a little bit whe cold. I decided to go ahead and do the FICM mod just to be safe. I removed it and soldered all the recommended terminals.I checked all the suspected wire chafing areas. I put it back in and pulled the EGR out just to check and clean it. It was moderately carboned and dry. It looked pretty good. Started it up afterwards and it sputtered for a moment and went away. Took it out for a ride and ran great. Let the truck sit for about 4 hours (in 85 degree heat) and started it again. Idled good for a few minutes and tthen started acting up. Bucking and blowing smoke and woudnt rev past 2500 rpms without cutting out. Checked out under the hood and with key on I could hear one injector sounding erratic. Came back out a little later and it wont even start now. I just want to be sure that it is an injector problem or is there something else. Sorry for the long post but just wanted to put all the facts out. I have a 2006 KR CC LB with 78000 miles on it. There is still the remainder of the factory warranty on it but I don't want a clueless dealer to just throw parts at it.

 

Sounds to me like the FICM could still be bad. Have you checked the voltage since you soldered on it?

 

No I did not do a voltage check afterwards. Just odd because it ran really well after I installed it.

 

You got warranty?

Get a good dealer and let them throw techs at it.

 

So after two weeks at the dealer, I finally got my truck back. They replaced the FICM, oil cooler, egr cooler, 1 dead battery, oil filter, oil cap, drained and flushed coolant, changed oil and reprogrammed FICM PCM and TCM. I guess there was quite a few TSB's that applied to this truck. All under warranty! Ya I was pretty shocked. They told me that one of the reasons it would not start is, it had an aftermarket oil cap and filter therefore it would not build enough base pressure. Does that make sense? Also since I got it back it seems to have less power and I lost 2-3 mpg. The tranny doesnt seem to shift as strong now either. Do they de-tune them now to make it last longer? Does the transmission need to re-learn my driving style? Also the boost seems to top out at 25-28 psi now, before I could swear it went right to 30.

 

There's an anti drain-back valve in the oil filter housing that won't function properly if the oil filter element isn't the correct size.