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I have a 92 F350 dually with the 7.3 idi motor. It was giving me problems starting. the glow plug relay was out so i replaced it. Then i noticed i had a battery drain, traced it down to the alternator plug, (burnt out) fixed it, and the drain was also to the #8 fuse inside the cab, i just pulled it. When i tried to crank it the starter just chuged once and the whole truck is dead now!!! Fuses 5 and 17 under the hood are showing a short!! Now it wont do nothing!!! The starter was checked and it dragged a bit but still work and i also have a new starter seliniod! Any ideas? Thanks for any input!
Diesels require first class A1 starting systems, No weak batteries, Cables, Starter, Glow System, and no air in the fuel system.
You are having electrical troubles that needs to be resolved first, I will pass that off to those that are better with the electrical than I.
However, check all your battery cables to ensure there is no corrosion in the cables at any of the connections, Especially at the right battery (passenger side USA) positive terminal.
Check all your grounds... Both battery grounds should go to a clean spot on the block, there should be ground straps between chassis and cab, cab and motor, motor and chassis, and for completeness one between chassis and bed. Grounds are extremely important.
Just because you have a new Solenoid do not ASSUME it's good, many Solenoids come out of the box junk today! (like most things in this new cheap greedy world)
THe batteries are good, up till bout 2 weeks ago she was running great, till the glow plug relay crapped out. Thank you for your responces, any other ideas?
Check all your grounds... Both battery grounds should go to a clean spot on the block, there should be ground straps between chassis and cab, cab and motor, motor and chassis, and for completeness one between chassis and bed. Grounds are extremely important.
Ground loop? Why so many ground straps? Metal conducts
Ground loop? Why so many ground straps? Metal conducts
Reason #1
REQUIREMENTS of Diesel, Read a Diesel MSDS.
Diesel creates dangerous amounts of static electricity, you do not want this static flowing through your rotating parts like bearings ... causes arching and bearing destruction.
Reason #2
All voltage needs two conductors ... Items are grounded locally, Without proper grounds strange things happen with the electrical system, you also do not want that current flowing through bearings, causes arching and bearing destruction.
Not to mention that a lot of the 'bolt together' places develop rust, and therefore resistance to current. That is also assuming there wasn't paint on that same metal before it was bolted together.
To tell the truth i havn't had time to trace all the wires. (work nights) but i did trace th alternator wires, main power wire to the fuse box, and various other small stuff. I just have the feeling that there is something that ties all this stuff together thats causing this! Cause like i said two weeks ago it was running like a scaulded dog!! No issues what so ever! Ill check the grounds, and the places yall have suggested. I appreciate the help boys! I had plans on selling it when i'm thru fixing it if anyone is interested! Only has 145 thousand miles on it. ( hope i didn't cross any forum rules saying that!) lol
Actually the ground straps are because of rubber mounted this and that, plastic parts here and there.
Since both battery grounds go to the engine block, which is where the largest electrical draws are located (starter and glow plugs).
The motor mounts are rubber insulated from the frame, vibration/noise control.
The cab is again rubber mounted, electrically insulated from both the engine and frame, again vibration/noise control.
So the why so many grounds is because of vibration/noise control and passenger comfort while maintaining a path for electrical devices to work without two wires running to every electrical item on the truck.