Im trying to figure out if my freinds truck is overheating. The gauge keeps going up and it doesnt stop. If you keep your foot on the pedal and go up to 60 65 it will keep rising. I have rebuilt the engine. Then the engine i built blew up. Then last week i put another engine in. It has a c6 trans. I built that too. New rad. New engine, same story. It is turning 3200 at 60 then 65 its turning 3500 then around 70 it hits the engine gov. If you run it 70 im convinced it will blow again. I think thats what he did this last time because if you look at the pics i posted, the piston pulled in half at the wrist pin and the rod bent in half. Oil pan slam full of parts. Anyway, a manual gauge was installed and it said the temp was 220 at 60 230 at 65 and 235 to 240 on hill loaded in hot weather. The factory gauge stays in the upper half. It has been as far as the L in NORMAL. The idiot light switch used to work it would come on around the A and now its melted or something because its stuck on. I unplugged it because it was making the gauge lay over. Both engines did/does the exact same thing. Its a Uhaul truck and they had some kind of oil tank plumbed into the oil cooler and the passenger side head and the lines ran to the back of the truck and theres a place for a tank but its gone and the two lines are connected. The breather has a sticker shwoing how to change the oil saying the resorvoir holds 6 quarts and the oil pan holds 9. The truck is also equipped with an overspeed light and buzzer and it is disconnected and I cant figure out how to make it work again. It was wired up to the RPM sensor on the IP housing. I think its the truck. An IDI is not the right engine choice for this truck. The service records show they replaced the rad, water pump fan clutch IP injectors, and a whole bunch of other stuff. Then we changed it all again. Every part has been changed or swapped. Including the whole engine. LOL. The only thing that made it run cool was a fan clutch with bolts through it and I couldnt keep it on it kept falling off when you shut the engine off and it sounded like an airplane. With that fan clutch on, it would run 210 fully loaded giving it a gallon 90 degrees out. It would litterally drink a gallon of diesel down fast too with that direct drive fan.

 

Diesel engine coolant temperature at the top of the radiator where hose attaches after high rpm or under load condition for 20 minutes should be (195-237*F) 91-114*C nice time to have a temperature reading point and shoot tool.

Clutch fan is the only way to go......