So just got this 07 and it is clean but odd problem. checked coil and I have spark. the fuel pressure at the rail when turning on ignition is 22psi. Once I turn it over it goes up 56 pain and holds there. Crank position sensor was supposedly replaced. I need to check plugs but no codes so I am very confused. 173k miles but as I said it is will taken care of

 

Hello, I have a 2007 Navigator also. I have some factory service manuals too.
Your Navigator looks nice. It looks like a 4 wheel drive.
Maybe I can give you some information to help. I have some quesions first. Have you had the engine running at all?
So, you have fuel pressure and spark. Good.
You must verify that the injectors are opening up to allow fuel in the combustion chambers? Is there voltage to the injectors?
There is a fuse or two that you could check.
Be careful if you use a multimeter with the control systems that are wired to the engine computer. Hooking up wrong could damage the engine computer.
I will check back later today. Maybe I can help some more.
Richard

 

I will have to check the injectors but I know I can smell fuel since the intake is off right now but will see what I can find. I didn't think to check the fuse for the injectors. I am also going to pull the plugs and see how they look. I purchased this non running and knew worst case scenario new motor. It appears to be a major 3 issue. Spark, Fuel or Air. Also to note it is a 2wd model. Very Very clean inside and underneath.

 

Ok, be verycareful when removing those saprk plugs. And replace with the ford spark plugs.
when removing those plugs: back them out about 1/16 or 1/8 of a turn. then turn them back part way but not tight. go back and forth. If they have grittines or are tight - spray a little penetrating fluid in the holes. That will help soften the carbon between the plug and the head. These plugs will be most likely be stuck if they have been left in the engine much over 70 or 80,000 miles.
My opinion is that it will do no good to spray any penetrant in the hole until the trreads have backed out a tiny bit. After all that plug to head seat does seal in hundreds of psi when the engine runs. the penetrating oil needs to seep in below the seat and get down where the plug extends into the tight fit in the head.

These plugs are two piece and the threads are not usually stuck. The plugs go down into the head about 1 1/2" below the thread. The seat is about half way between the tip and the threads. The plugs fit pretty close in the head below the seat. That is the part that is carboned up tight and can come loose in the plug shell or break. The part of the plug below the seat is pressed in to the shell so be careful and take your time.
If you break any spark plugs there is a kit made by the Lilse tool company and Ford makes a kit too. These kits do a good job of getting out any parts that break. There is lots of information on this forum and elsewhere on line about removing these plugs.
The plugs in my engine are Motorcraft Platinum PZH 14F
The best mechanic for these Ford engines is a youtuber named: FordTechMakuloco - YouTube He has make lots of first class Ford videos.

If the timing chains and phasers need replacing that could be expensive. If you do that job ford parts are the best way to get a successful job.
Check the coil boots while you are removing them.
Good luck with everything. I will follow your posts if you have time to put any more up.
Richard
My 2007 has 110,000 miles on it. It is running good and has over 25 psi oil pressure hot at idle.

 

GwCloud

Thanks I have watched his videos for a bit now and after having a 07 Expy for a long time I am very familiar with the plugs issue. I am hoping these have been replaced but will take my time. I wouldnt think that all plugs are bad but who knows as I don't know what the previous owner did. I know it looks like new coil packs and other items but will take my time.

 

fastcarsspeed,
Sounds like you are all dialed in. Good.
Being as this engine has 173,000 miles on it there could be timing chain issues causing it not to start.
I hope not. It would be nice to get it running to see what shape the engine really is.
Good luck,
Richard

 

well found the issue but a little concerned. this is driver's side plugs. all came out very easily like they were loose. wonder how much damage to the motor. need to pull the right side plugs and I have new motorcraft plugs to go in but worried as to what would cause this on multiple cylinders. the plugs were loose though.

 

so 7 plugs had no tip left and all were pretty loose. replaced them all and she still won't start. I have a new cps sonmay try that next.

 

Gee, I wonder why it would not start. ha ha
I wonder where all those broken tips went or if they did any damage.
Lots of soot. Looks like the fuel mixture was very rich.
Have you scanned the OBD sytem? Any codes?
Those are the same plug as I have in my engine. I bought some plugs on line and they lasted about a year. They were counterfit chinese made. The text on the porcilin was black and had sharp edges. The real Motorcraft plugs have a faded looking grey text with soft edges.
Richard

 

So I have replaced the Plugs, Crank Position Sensor and still no start. Cranks fine but does not start. I am very confused. I am getting no codes other than P1000 and I have reset they system and still nothing. If the timing chain skipped a tooth I would think the truck would throw and code or start and just be rough but I am getting nothing. I can smell fuel with the intake box off so I know it is getting fuel. I would also think if the throttle body is bad that again I would get a code. Going to call my local shop today to see if they have IDS and can see if maybe the PCM is bad or if it is the timing chain.

 

The code P1000 means the system needs to have the engine run until the OBD checks can be performed. That code will go away after the engines runs long enough to scan itself.

If the engine has no oil pressure it will not start. I am not sure whether the engine will crank with no oil pressure.

I will look at my manual in about an hour or two and post if there some reasons for a crank no start condition.

If the timing chain system caused the engine to quit maybe someone tried to diagnose as to why. If they cleared the codes then you didn't get to see them.
Richard

 

I couldn't find anything in the manual about cranks but will not start.
Shouldn't the engine draw vacuum when cranking? If the cams are out of time that would affect vacuum.
You replaced the crank sensor. So that should not be the problem.
There are two guys on youtube that are very good at diagnosing problems. Schrodingers Box - YouTube and Scanner Danner . They both have tutorials.
Richard

 

Well I could not find anything about a crank - no start without a specific code in the Service manual.
Does your engine have any vacuum while cranking? If not that may be a clue. The engine needs air to go along with the fuel and spark to start.
There are two guys on youtube that are very good diagnosing problems. Schrodingers Box - YouTube and Scanner Danner.
They both have tutorials on problems like yours.
Richard

 

I am going to pull off the plastic intake pipe to the Throttle Body so I can see if it is moving at all when the key is turned on. I am also going to check for spark on each cylinder and check timing is right and it has not jumped time. Also figure I might as well check compression. Worst case scenario it has jumped time and I just need to do a timing job or worst case I am swapping in a new reman motor.

 

When you turn the ignition key to the “ON” position, does the check engine light turn on?

And when you turn the ignition key further to the “START” position, does the check engine light turn off while the engine is cranking?