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blowing light bulbs

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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 09:51 AM
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blowing light bulbs

Anyone here know why I would keep blowing a turn signal bulb? I can change it and it may last a couple months or it might last a couple days then it's burned out again. Any ideas?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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Are you getting moisure in the light?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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Nope, no moisture.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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What is your voltage?

Is your flasher stuck "on" on that side?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Flasher isn't stuck. It works fine but it does look almost like the socket has got hot before. Can I pull the bulb and put a multimeter on the contacts to check the voltage?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 03:19 PM
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If you have a bad connection in the socket, it can cause an amperage spike, and take out a bulb.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 03:31 PM
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If the socket looks damaged, there could be several ways that it could be blowing bulbs (spikes, bad contact).

Another thing to consider is the bulb itself. Finger oils can cause localized heat increase and cause the bulb to burn out prematurely (yes I am OCD). I always clean my bulbs with rubbing alcohol and a rag to make sure that there is nothing on them when I install them. That will ensure maximum life out of the bulb.

Just my .02
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Downriver Thunder
Flasher isn't stuck. It works fine but it does look almost like the socket has got hot before. Can I pull the bulb and put a multimeter on the contacts to check the voltage?

Yes.

If the socket is corroded --- clean --- and replace if needed.

Real bad damage done by salt -- and salt water is conductive.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 04:47 PM
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also, bad connections corroded or otherwise will not cause an increase in amp draw or voltage draw because it is baisically a resistance which will reduce both amp and volt draw through the circuit, but will cause a resistive heat in that poor connection which will cause the plastic connector to deform over time. thats just basic ohm's law.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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When you say the bulb is burned out, are you saying you can see the broken filiment, or just that it no longer works?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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Sometimes the filament is broken and others it appears to be fine but doesn't work and if I install a new bulb it's works.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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Well, I can see a voltage spike blowing out a bulb. What I can't see is why it would blow out one bulb, and not the others.

I would try putting a conducting grease on the contacts, which will reduce corrosion on the terminals. First sandpaper or otherwise scratch the contacts to which the bulb will mate.

With any luck, your problem is more a corrosion issue, and only occasionally does the filament actually blow.

By the way where do you buy your bulbs? If it isn't a solid outfit, like maybe NAPA, maybe you're just getting cheap bulb.....
 
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BareBones
I would try putting a conducting grease on the contacts, which will reduce corrosion on the terminals. First sandpaper or otherwise scratch the contacts to which the bulb will mate..


Absolutely no!!!!!

You cannot stop conducting grease from migrating, and with it, shorting your system.

If you ever used that product anywhere on your truck before --- you have your answer as to what is likely causing the problem(s).

If you did, expect more of the same in the coming years.

It is nearly impossible to clean that stuff off once it is used.




Always (and only) use dielectric grease to inhibit corrosion.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 06:28 PM
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Is there something else on that circuit?

Somebody cut into it and added an additional load?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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Okay, good catch. What I use is NAPA Dielectric Silicone Compound, part no. 765-119. However, bear in mind that if it were truly non-conductive, the circuit would quit working, so it must be at least somewhat conductive notwithstanding the name.

Still, don't want to give bum advice. Thanks.
 
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