Diff fluid change?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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Diff fluid change?
Yesterday I sunk my 92 F250 into about 4 feet of water, today I am changing all of my fluids.
Tranny and t-case were no problem, but I am encountering some problems with the diffs.
I took all of the bolts out of my 10.25 in the back and I cannot for the life of me get the cover off. I tried whacking it with a hammer, prying it with a screwdriver and everything.
Also, how do i go about changing the fluid in my Dana 50 TTB?
There is no real cover and no drain plug so I am at a loss.
Any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks
Greg-92 F250
Tranny and t-case were no problem, but I am encountering some problems with the diffs.
I took all of the bolts out of my 10.25 in the back and I cannot for the life of me get the cover off. I tried whacking it with a hammer, prying it with a screwdriver and everything.
Also, how do i go about changing the fluid in my Dana 50 TTB?
There is no real cover and no drain plug so I am at a loss.
Any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks
Greg-92 F250
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 286
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From: PA, USA
Please don't use a hammer and prybar on the rear diff cover! At a minimum you'll bend the cover and it will never seal again. At worst, you'll deform the sealing surface of the housing or slip when the cover gives way and mess up the gear ring and/or carrier.
Get a 1" wide putty knife and gently slip it between the cover and the housing. Work it around a bit until it slides through whatever is sealing the cover. Then just work it around the entire sealing surface until the cover comes free. Use the recommended RTV to seal it back up and let it cure before you refill the diff. Blue, gray or black should work fine.
As far as the front diff goes, zxwut has it right, use a siphon to pump out the front. They're $10-$15 at the parts store. You could break the seal between the halves but it's a real pain to get that back together right with no leaks. Don't forget the bearings, as he said, too.
Get a 1" wide putty knife and gently slip it between the cover and the housing. Work it around a bit until it slides through whatever is sealing the cover. Then just work it around the entire sealing surface until the cover comes free. Use the recommended RTV to seal it back up and let it cure before you refill the diff. Blue, gray or black should work fine.
As far as the front diff goes, zxwut has it right, use a siphon to pump out the front. They're $10-$15 at the parts store. You could break the seal between the halves but it's a real pain to get that back together right with no leaks. Don't forget the bearings, as he said, too.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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I cant get anything in between the cover and the housing so i guess i may just try sucking the fluid out through the fill hole like the front. i'm guessing the reason it is stuck on in the first place is because of the orange RTV stuff the last guy used to put it back on. I had all the bearings replaced in january so i would imagine that the thing isn't totally baked on there.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Bristol/Hartford CT
Please don't use a hammer and prybar on the rear diff cover! At a minimum you'll bend the cover and it will never seal again. At worst, you'll deform the sealing surface of the housing or slip when the cover gives way and mess up the gear ring and/or carrier.
Get a 1" wide putty knife and gently slip it between the cover and the housing. Work it around a bit until it slides through whatever is sealing the cover. Then just work it around the entire sealing surface until the cover comes free. Use the recommended RTV to seal it back up and let it cure before you refill the diff. Blue, gray or black should work fine.
As far as the front diff goes, zxwut has it right, use a siphon to pump out the front. They're $10-$15 at the parts store. You could break the seal between the halves but it's a real pain to get that back together right with no leaks. Don't forget the bearings, as he said, too.
Get a 1" wide putty knife and gently slip it between the cover and the housing. Work it around a bit until it slides through whatever is sealing the cover. Then just work it around the entire sealing surface until the cover comes free. Use the recommended RTV to seal it back up and let it cure before you refill the diff. Blue, gray or black should work fine.
As far as the front diff goes, zxwut has it right, use a siphon to pump out the front. They're $10-$15 at the parts store. You could break the seal between the halves but it's a real pain to get that back together right with no leaks. Don't forget the bearings, as he said, too.
And sometimes you can't suck the fluid out of the fill hole. I tried it on my truck and yes I know it's not a dana rear, but still...
Might be worth a shot, but try with a putty knife first. NOT a screwdriver.
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Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 286
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From: PA, USA
It's probably just really stuck on there. It's one of those physics problems where the bearing surface is too great if you pull on the whole thing. Try the putty knife, if you haven't. It should work.
Worst case, though, you can siphon the rear out too.
Worst case, though, you can siphon the rear out too.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
ok here is a tip no one else will recommend but it has worked like a charm for the last 3 stubborn diffs I've opened... DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK (personal disclaimer so people can't blame me for messing this up). Get a putty knife or a utility knife... and get the propane torch you use to do copper pluming (heat gun works too)... heat the knife and then use the hot knife to slide under the diff cover to pry it lose... Noticed I said "hot" not CHERRY RED!!!! and keep the open flame away from the flamable fluids (ie gas, gas tank, break lines, diff oil, etc (this is the reason for the disclaimer)... it's a big pain to syhpen all the rear diff fluid out! If you do this carefully you won't hurt yourself...and sometimes using a $15 heat gun from harbor freight to heat the diff cover will help it expand enough to break loose. Good luck!
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
yeah it's one of those little ninja tricks that you learn along the way... You don't really remember to share them until someone has a problem like LawF250 is having. Guess you kinda take for granted the things you know until they become usful to share with others. Hope you can get that diff open LawF250... Keep us posted on what you did... I'd be curious to see if my tricks work just as well in other peoples hands. Give me a click on the heart if it does...LOL
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 286
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From: PA, USA
I was more surprised that someone was just in that diff not too long ago and was able to seal it back up like that. It made me think that the putty knife (hot or not) would definitely work because the seal is relatively new, not baked on and/or corroded over a period of years. Whatever, hopefully he gets back with us so we can find out. I sent a click your way, btw. Thanks for the idea. I'll keep that one in my back pocket until next time.
