Well... I have a 95 F150 supercab, 4x4, 5.8, e40d trans... 231XXX miles. Within the last month I've had the rear wheel speed sensor replaced... all the wiring redone between that sensor and the dash, the cluster and the computer and between the cruise control servo and the computer. I had a issue with a flashing od light and hard shifting. This seemed to fix the problem for a couple weeks, only happened one time since then and I unplugged the cruise control servo (what my mechanic told me to do) and it hasn't happened since.

What my issue is now is I did a tune up on the truck yesterday, plugs and wires, air filter, cap and rotor... and now my check engine light is on. I had an issue getting my cap off the distributor and had to actually break it off... in the process of doing this I took a couple little chunks out of the plastic part on top of the distributor but nothing that would cause a gap or opening. I'm about to go check the codes but was wondering if anyone has any simple ideas first. I've checked and rechecked all the wires and made sure they were snapped on... the light only comes on if I'm driving... not if its idling in park, I think I noticed a chattering in the trans while driving after the tune up also.... any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

check the wire routing - 5 & 6 shouldn't be run next to each other. Make sure they're routed 5,7,8,6 in the looms.

 

Trans function is ECU integrated. Error code scans should point you in the right direction. Separate codes received as KOEO, Continuous memory or KOER codes if possible, when posting. How many miles on your o2 sensor(s).

 

are the codes for my truck two or three digit?

 

Three digit. Whenever the light is on your first step should be to pull the codes.

 

pulled the codes yesterday... 332, which is the EGR code that I don't really care about, and a 10... the ten code says that cylinder one didn't pass some balance test??? not sure what that means, or if it means anything... I couldn't care less about the EGR at the moment... its more of a pain to remove and replace then its worth at almost a quarter of a million miles. Any thoughts on the 10 code?

 

one more thing also... the CEL comes and goes while I'm driving... on for a min, then off, then back on, then off again. Mechanic says the EGR code 332 is the cause, any second opinions. The only bad thing I can think of happening here is that when a more important CEL comes on I may not pay attention cause I'll think its the EGR.

 

Insufficient EGR flow. Egr valve or mount portways are partially blocked w/deposits, or the EGR valve diaphragm could be ruptured.

10 is a separator code for your yr/engine if it's MAP/SEFI. It's not capable of doing a Cylinder Output Balance test, unless your engine is MAF/SEFI. So which is it?

 

Foster,
Check to see if perhaps you've accidentally knocked a vacuum line off a port or something. I'm not sure offhand what is where on the 5.8, but I'm thinking perhaps you hit something when fighting with the cap.