rear dif issues, please help!
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New User
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rear dif issues, please help!
OK so last week I had to replace the u-joint on my 97 250, and in order to find one that fit I had to remove the yoke from the pumpkin. this week I noticed a smell every time I got out of the truck and noticed that I was leaking fluid out of the rear end, so I figured the seal was bad. tonight I removed the yoke again and noticed that the shaft sticking out of the pumpkin was loose...like I could move it up, down, left right etc....also i tried to remove the seal and found that its only going to come out in very small pieces...is the bearing shot on my imput shaft? also, all the parts stores including summit called for a u-joint that was the wrong size for my yoke, i'm wondering if i'll have the same problem with the seal. How can I tell what rear end I have so I can get the right seal the first time? also, if my input shaft bearing is shot, would it be easier to replace the bearing or just put a new rear end in? luckily it's nice out and I can take the bike to work, but it's gonna rain eventually....please help!!! thanks!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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Ford Axle Code Chart .: Articles Here is a link to an axle decoder. Match the code on your door sticker to the chart.
Without the yoke installed and the retaining nut torqued up there will be play in the pinion shaft.
Without the yoke installed and the retaining nut torqued up there will be play in the pinion shaft.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 690
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From: Madison Ohio
You could draw a picture of the rear cover measuring the bolt ring and number of cover bolts and take to a real parts store and ask them what rear end it is in case someone before you changed it out. As might be the case if your getting the wrong U joint from places. Also there should be a steel ring part on your original seal If your lucky the seal part number will be on that steel part.
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ok, that chart helps a little, my axle code is 39, chart says it's a 1991 rear end...so do i tell autozone i need a seal for a 1991 rear end?? also, any tips on getting this seal all the way out? I got all the big pieces but am having trouble getting the part of the seal that's on the inside surface of the flange.
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hmm, after doing some reseach I've come to the conclusion that I messed some things up here....like not counting how many turns the nut was on the pinion shaft while i was removing it...i've never had to do work on a rear end before and now i feel like im a little out of my depth...how do i keep from screwing this up further?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Sand Lake, MI
hmm, after doing some reseach I've come to the conclusion that I messed some things up here....like not counting how many turns the nut was on the pinion shaft while i was removing it...i've never had to do work on a rear end before and now i feel like im a little out of my depth...how do i keep from screwing this up further?
You need to put that nut back on just where it was, tightening it just a tad more, say 1/4 turn but no more. The extra will take up any little bit of wear without changing any setting, that and ensure its tight at the same time.
The nut is or should be self locking, at this point if there any question as to that aspect of the old nut, replace it with a new one.
There is other way to lock a nut if sourcing a new replacement proves to be tough.
Here is another axle identifier page,
http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml
For some reason the page Lazy K linked to won't open for me, using his link or my bookmark, any one else have that problem? just me?
All I get is a page with the FTE header area showing but nothing below that?
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after lots of kano kroil, a really long chisel and a big hammer I got the old seal out and it still has the identifying numbers on the surface that was inside the dif. I got a buddy coming over to help me with the re-assy, he's a truck mechanic and says he can set the pre-load by feel...I also have a torque wrench if i can find the torque spec here online. thanks for all the help, you guys rock.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
says he can set the pre-load by feel
That's great but depending on the axle/differential you have likely have to strip it down to nothing but the pinion/carrier (pull axles out) to do that.
But to do it that way you would have measured it first before removing it, then reset to the same value when reinstalling the yoke/nut.
That's great but depending on the axle/differential you have likely have to strip it down to nothing but the pinion/carrier (pull axles out) to do that.
But to do it that way you would have measured it first before removing it, then reset to the same value when reinstalling the yoke/nut.
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yeah, just searched the forums and read a thread discussing counting the threds vs feeling the preload....I'm screwed. you can kinda see the rust ring where the nut originally was, so I'm going to go to that point and then maybe 1/8 turn more...see if it leaks or makes noise.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
yeah, just searched the forums and read a thread discussing counting the threds vs feeling the preload....I'm screwed. you can kinda see the rust ring where the nut originally was, so I'm going to go to that point and then maybe 1/8 turn more...see if it leaks or makes noise.
As you can see now after reading up on it, its not about "tightening" it. As long as you know that you'll be alright.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 690
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From: Madison Ohio
Maybe try a REAL parts store. I know the carquest by me is open today.